G Scale Model Train Forum banner

Aristo-Craft remote switch

8K views 19 replies 8 participants last post by  Torby 
#1 ·
Question:

I am using a CRE-55401 10 amp train power controller in conjunction with the CRE-55460 to power my train track. I intended to use the controller to power the Aristo switches (ART-11205 series) but the instructions for the switches contains a NOTE as follows: Do not attempt to operate on DC unless proper diodes ( 2 pcs 1N4001) are used. I was led to believe that the controller had AC for accessories but the label states "fixed DC output".

The question is; do I need the diodes in each line to the swithches?
paxtrain
Huntsville, AL
 
#3 ·
the main power pack ( which is a battery charger for a car battery ) only has dc output so you have no ac ........

the controler then turns this dc power to pulse power ..... in other words the full power of the pack is turned on and off but is always at full voltage ..... at 10% power it is just on for 10% of the time .... and at 60% power it is on for 60% of the time ..

when the loco sees this power pluse the motor starts to go then glides until the next pulse which moves it along some more then it glides and so on and so on ........ as the motor sees longer pulses it turns faster becouse it is under power longer .....

they do this so at low speed the motor will see enough voltage to turn over .......

now the turnouts are DC and the pulse power will over heat them so the dioides are used to make the power more like dc ....

so yes you need them ........ or run the turnouts from a separate power brick that is DC
 
#4 ·
Neal and Scott:

I finally got a reply from Aristo-Craft and the switches have to have an AC supply. The controller is DC only so the diodes have to be used. They can be purchased from Radio Shack for $.99 for a two pack.

Thanks for the response.

John, aka paxtrain
 
#5 ·
Um.... I think somebody's confused....

You'll need an AC source at least 12v to run the switch machines using the supplied button dealies.

With a DC power supply, like the ultima, you want a dpdt switch, not the little thingy provided. All you do is apply power one way to switch the turnout, then reverse it to switch the other way. I'd suggest a spring centered switch with center off. The machine has an internal limit switch, but if something jams the turnout, it won't turn off the little motor inside.

If you have AC and connect it to the switch with nothing to control it, the switch will flip back and forth.
 
#6 ·
John,

This is my first post here on My large Scale so I don't know if the mechanics of what I am trying to convey will work.

That said,

I have written an article about the Aristo turnout motors (aka remote switch machine) that includes electrical information. It is hosted for me on Greg Elmassian's web site at the below link.




Topic, "Aristo-Craft Turnout Motor Vignette"

http://www.elmassian.com/trains-mainmenu-27/ted-doskaris-vignettes-mainmenu-157/aristo-turnout-motors-mainmenu-162


I hope this is of help,

-Ted
 
#11 ·
I dawned on me at work yesterday that what you are asking about is the dioides that they use to reduse the wiring ....


the turnouts are dc and power one way will throw it one direction then reverse polarity and it throws the other way

when you run ac thru a diode you get pulsed DC power if you turn the diode around you also get pulsed dc but the opposite polarity so the two diodes will send opposing pulsed dc power down the wire to throw the switch one way or the other then back on the "ground"

also if you use half wave ac you can run a common "ground" to all the turnouts


and like said above to use that you need AC

I am sorry I did not understand what you where asking......
 
G
#12 ·
when you run ac thru a diode you get pulsed DC power if you turn the diode around you also get pulsed dc but the opposite polarity so the two diodes will send opposing pulsed dc power down the wire to throw the switch one way or the other then back on the "ground"

also if you use half wave ac you can run a common "ground" to all the turnouts


that sounds pretty much like the LGB "EPL"-system.
 
#13 ·
Scott:

What I was referring to was a note on the Aristo-Craft instruction manual that states that the switch can operate on DC but you have to add 1N4001 diodes to the circuit. I don't have an AC unless I add a separate supply. The CRE-55401 controller has an accessory tap on the back but it is DC. I'm not electrical smart so I am wondering if I just splice the wire and add the diodes will this work? If I absolutely have to have AC do you have a recommendation where to get an inexpensive unit?

John
 
#14 ·
Go visit Radio Shack and pick up a dpdt switch from their parts cabinet. You won't need a big one, just get one you like. If you don't know what to do with a soldering iron, they'll likely have one with screws for connecting the wires.
On the back of the switch, you'll find 6 connections. Wire them up like this:



And set the little control buttons that came with your switch machines aside. (Don't buy any diodes.)
 
#17 ·
He's asking about the Aristo unit.

Even for the LGB unit, for the fraction of a second the motor runs, it's not going to matter any.

Your circuits with the diode will work beautifully from something like a malibu transformer, though a 6v doorbell transformer didn't do the job. A 9v "wall wart" transformer will do.
 
#18 ·
I went Radio Shack and they do have DPDT center off spring swithches for less than $5.00 each. I understand how to wire it and I will use the DC tap on the back of the Aristo-Craft CRE-55401 10 amp power supply. I didn't like the little switches that came with the turnouts. I recently read in Garden Railways magazine that Aristo-Craft is coming out with a new remotely controlled switch machine in Dec that is weatherproof and will operate on 12v AC or DC. No price given.

Joihn
 
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top