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OK, trying to post some pics here.. hopefully this will work.



This is the close up. notice the closed "gap" in the "cap" closest to you. This one was early on before I realized I could back out the screws enough to run wires through them, up and over the screws.





2 inch PVC pipe supports. These make adjusting height VERY easy. I just adjusted some yesterday with track attached due to a new engine not being able to pull enough cars without wheel slipage. Just back out the screws, lower roadbed, and re insert screws...voila!!



Still early on in construction. This 8ft curve was EASILY made and I was by myself. Notice in the upper left, how it starts to curve back to the left! Also, easily accomplished. Jack, the dog, was no help at all!


With track! This was the rise that I had to lower yesterday! Being a "Newby" and wanting to run trains, I didn't paint it before adding track. I have a big task ahead in painting! Live and learn.






Overall layout with about 30% being on this raised bed!

Let me know if you have any questions about this. I basically used the method described when I googled "Making a PVC lumber, raised roadbed". Ill try to find the link if anyone is interested.

Regards,
Phil
 

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Looks good. No need to paint the track since you have brass track. Eventually it will weather to a dark shade, but if it's Aristrocraft that may take a while longer. You might research blackening chemicals used on gun barrels, but beware as they may cause corrosion in your railjoiners.

Terl
 

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Thanks Ya'll.

Teri, I'm talking about painting the white PVC. It's just too stark in the landscape. Bought a nice brown today and will be dipping paint for ages....(between ties, under ties, the outside of the pvc and the inside of the pvc! If I hadn't been so impatient, I could have sprayed it all before actually laying the track! Oh well.. life really is to short to take seriously!! Therefore .... " a painting I will go... a painting I will go....I just impatient so a painting I will go!"

Regards, happy choo chooing

Phil
 

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I drove mine into the ground about 12 inches. In your sandy soil, I'd use a post hole digger to about 12 inches, set your post in the hole and add about 4" of conrete just to give it a footing. Then backfill. There really is no side to side pressure, only straight down. Here's the link to the site where I got the idea. Make sure you also watch the video demonstration at the bottm of the page.


http://www.btcomm.com/trains/primer/roadbed/ladder1.htm


If you try it, let me know how it turns out! I'll be interested to see what you come up with!
 

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Phil, how much did you pay per cap? On-line I found 97" length for $6.78 does that sound close to what you paid? If it is that cheap you my friend are a genius.

Johnny
 

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Johnny,
THANK YOU!!!
It's not often that I come across a good solution that is also CHEAP!!! But, this just happens to be one of my better moments! Yes that price is about right. I think I paid about $7 for an 8 ft length. Remember, each length only handles one side of your support so you'll be spending about $14 per every 8 feet of track.

Helpful hint when creating your "ladders"..... Make sure you stagger the caps so that each 8 ft length overlaps the other side by 4ft. This gives much greater stability. I've also seen them in a dark brown color, but this was after I did my installation. Be sure to view the link above about cutting the "rungs" that go between the "cap rails". They are basically 1x2 and 2x2 pieces.

Last weekend, I started painting my white caps brown. I simply unscrewed the track, left the track all connected together and lifted a section at a time to paint under the rails and the inside parts of the cap supports, along with the verticle 2" pvc support pipes. Did about 1/2 my layout in about 2 hours... LOOKS MUCH BETTER PAINTED!! If you have to paint yours, paint BEFORE you install your track. Do NOT use a heavy coat of paint as the simulated woodgrain looks GREAT with just enough paint to discolor the white. I found that applying the paint as you normally would, then going back over it with the side of bristles lifts off just the right amount of paint to give an uneven color, similar to real wood. I'll post some pics of my painted sections hopefully this weekend.

I've also found that the scrap pieces of the caps make GREAT beams to set your structures on, keeping them off of the ground. You can semi-drive them into the ground with the gap facing down (similar to an upside down U shape). It will keep your wood off the ground and allow air and moisture to flow AROUND, not through,your structure's floor. Just make sure you heavily paint the bottom of the structure to help protect from ground condensation.

My mind whrils every night as I'm going to sleep. I HAVE to do my planning on a very tight budget. I'll let you know if I come up with anything else that I think may be of use.

Choo Choo at you soon,

Phil
 

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The beauty of this 'lifestyle', many different solutions to many different problems (I am a brainstormer by nature). Phil, as I was drifting off into slumber last night I was wondering if your wood block stingers would hold up to the elements? I am afraid of the wood rotting over a short amount of time given weather and irrigation of plants. I have some scrap Trek decking lying around for stingers and if I get a chance this weekend I will try that. We are all working on a budget and I know the composite wood will cost a little more, but the value lies in less maintenance and down time. Again, cheers on what appears to be a great and easy raised railbed.

Johnny
 

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Your thoughts have been my fears too! The best part is that they can be replaced from underneath the track, one at a time w/o disturbing bend etc. I just haven't gotten around to changing them out yet. They've only been up since July of last year, but have been through numerous rainstoms, snow, and even a hurricaine. Yes, my whole layout was PERFECT after Ike. I didn't have to re level ANYTHING! So at least we know the construction method wiill hold up!

I've been keeping my eyes peeled for alternatives, just haven't run across the "perfect" solution.....YET!!

Phil
 

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I went to our local big box and found brown 'redwood' that did look very nice and would not require painting. It looked good for plastic and for using as roadbed. I had about 100' loaded on the cart as my daughter and I walked by another product. Lets say I unload the 100' and picked up the 16' package to test; the picture on the package looked liked track . I will let everyone know how this new product works seeing I didn't have time this afternoon to install outside and living here in AZ tomorrow, Sunday, is busy with cooking and parties(Go Cardinals). I will try it out later this week. It is a one piece snap together edger that per foot is cheaper than Phil's system. It dose not require stingers. Playing with product in the house tonight I think that setting 2" PVC at 4', product length, will allow great strength. Google Snap Edge and you will all see what I am talking about.

Johnny
 

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Posted By jfrank on 11/30/2008 7:37 AM
I use this system. It was only temporary until I could haul in all the dirt fill and ballast.

http://www.gardenrailwayproducts.com/

It works great but is expensive for a large layout.



I've tried a small loop using this system.
Roadbed is NOT level, in any direction!!
Curves, I found, also don't fit quite right.
I get a slight overhang, with an 8 foot diameter curve.

No matter what I did, it just didn't work as was expected.
Seriously doubt I'm gonna try it again.
Was a $250+ waste of money.


My opinion - Useless.
 

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Discussion Starter · #35 ·
I changed my last Holiday front yard layout to the bahamaboys system. It worked pretty well.
The hardest part I had was to get the radius of the curves correct. It seems I had track overhanging on both ends of my oval.
Any tips on getting this radius set then connecting the track to the temporary trestle??
I just cant seem to get it right and have to re do a few times and still isnt quite right.

Thanks for any tips.

P.H.
 

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OK, trying to post some pics here.. hopefully this will work.



This is the close up. notice the closed "gap" in the "cap" closest to you. This one was early on before I realized I could back out the screws enough to run wires through them, up and over the screws.





2 inch PVC pipe supports. These make adjusting height VERY easy. I just adjusted some yesterday with track attached due to a new engine not being able to pull enough cars without wheel slipage. Just back out the screws, lower roadbed, and re insert screws...voila!!



Still early on in construction. This 8ft curve was EASILY made and I was by myself. Notice in the upper left, how it starts to curve back to the left! Also, easily accomplished. Jack, the dog, was no help at all!


With track! This was the rise that I had to lower yesterday! Being a "Newby" and wanting to run trains, I didn't paint it before adding track. I have a big task ahead in painting! Live and learn.






Overall layout with about 30% being on this raised bed!

Let me know if you have any questions about this. I basically used the method described when I googled "Making a PVC lumber, raised roadbed". Ill try to find the link if anyone is interested.

Regards,
Phil
OK, trying to post some pics here.. hopefully this will work.



This is the close up. notice the closed "gap" in the "cap" closest to you. This one was early on before I realized I could back out the screws enough to run wires through them, up and over the screws.





2 inch PVC pipe supports. These make adjusting height VERY easy. I just adjusted some yesterday with track attached due to a new engine not being able to pull enough cars without wheel slipage. Just back out the screws, lower roadbed, and re insert screws...voila!!



Still early on in construction. This 8ft curve was EASILY made and I was by myself. Notice in the upper left, how it starts to curve back to the left! Also, easily accomplished. Jack, the dog, was no help at all!


With track! This was the rise that I had to lower yesterday! Being a "Newby" and wanting to run trains, I didn't paint it before adding track. I have a big task ahead in painting! Live and learn.






Overall layout with about 30% being on this raised bed!

Let me know if you have any questions about this. I basically used the method described when I googled "Making a PVC lumber, raised roadbed". Ill try to find the link if anyone is interested.

Regards,
Phil
 
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