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Discussion Starter #1
Hi

my dad an have been thinking an looking at the accucraft ruby frame assembly
would it be posably easy to build a simple 2-4-4-2 i have a bachman 2-4-4-2 scrath
built and have been looking over it trying to figure how to connect the steam line
to the front truck i was thinking a hose or a line to run to it but has it been done.


sincerely

Casey Wilmunder
 

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Dave Hottmann built a Garratt from two Ruby's. Give him a jingle. Try the archives (old archives) for both his email and threads he posted on the build.
 

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Casey,

What you are looking for is a steamtight flexible joint. This has been discussed recently on another group. The best idea I've seen is to silver solder a phosphor bronze ball on the end of the steam pipe, seat this on an O ring and retain with the usual union nut, bored out oversize to allow the pipe freedom to move. This whole assembly must be mounted on the pivot centre line.

I haven't tried it yet, but I hope to later this year.

Mike
 

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Posted By Shaymaker on 06/22/2008 1:56 AM
Casey,
What you are looking for is a steamtight flexible joint. This has been discussed recently on another group. The best idea I've seen is to silver solder a phosphor bronze ball on the end of the steam pipe, seat this on an O ring and retain with the usual union nut, bored out oversize to allow the pipe freedom to move. This whole assembly must be mounted on the pivot centre line.
I haven't tried it yet, but I hope to later this year.
Mike




I dont think you need anything as complicated as that..
just use the flexible blue airplane tubing..
it flexes fine, and no need for any complicated engineering.

its sold as fuel line for gas powered model airplanes.
its also used in live steamers as steam lines, it can handle the heat.
its the blue stuff in this photo:



why couldnt you build the mechanical pivot, so the front driver set will pivot,
(but the mechanical pivot has nothing to do with the steam line)
then use the flexable tubing to connect the steam line to the front driver set?
the tubing will bend as the driver assembly pivots..

Scot
 

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Discussion Starter #6
my idea was to use the existing ive steam line and add a t to it and come out about an inch an curve it to
45d and then run the hose/r/c fuel line to the front truck and take the front pilot of the first tuck and build
a bracket so you can bol the back of the front truck to the rear truck and then build all your detail i was think
first just tube the orginal boiler to make it longer or see if that wont work i will look around for a new boiler
or build one my self.but im ordering 3 ruby kits in a few months maybe in july and see about build this an a heavly detailed ruby i have been ordering all the detail parts for acouple of years they add up fast 200.00 just
in a stack,domes,whistle,oilcans,cab kit.


sincerely

Casey Wilmunder
 

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Hi Casey,

I believe that Roundhouse sells replacement boilers. Perhaps one from a larger model such as the Sandy River #24 would suffice to power two Ruby chassis.

Llyn
 
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