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Discussion Starter #1
Hey gang,

Managed to score a 1:29 AML switcher on teh EBays and it finally got here today. Allegedly it sat in a glass case of a NJ hobby shop for years without ever having been run. Judging from the dust on her and the lack of any oil anywhere, I'd say that's the truth. It didn't spoil her beauty at all. Great looking loco.

Putting her in gear and attempting to move the wheels produced considerable resistance, which I attributed to old oil in the cylinders. After a messy lube, a warm up & 40lbs of steam she was quite willing to run on rollers.

I noticed that running her in reverse was considerably more jagged than running forward. Not sure if this is because Accucraft doesn't run their engines in before shipping, or if there's some sort of timing issue.

What kind of run-in program does the greater Internet recommend? Are there any concerns? The "manual" that ships with this loco is a little spare, and the AML/Accucraft website has absolutely no online knowledgebase.
 

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Discussion Starter #2
Corollary: In the process of wiping her down afterwards, noticed that the pin that holds the main rod & drag link to the piston shaft had popped out on the left side. Since that side of the loco was facing the wall while running, it's unclear if that was causing the unevenness or not.

It's alarming that that pin popped out, does it require some loc-tite to ensure it stays put in the future?
 

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Accucraft's piston-valve engines tend to run noticeably more smoothly in one direction than the other. That's because the reversing works by reversing the steam flow through the valve chests, so in one direction (reverse for the newer models, forward for the older ones) the valves are running in outside-admission mode and the steam pressure adds resistance to the valve motion. In the other direction the valves are inside-admission, and the forces of the steam pressure acting on the valve body cancel themselves out and it moves more easily. When you're running on rails the locomotive's momentum will smooth out the motion somewhat, compared to running it on rollers. A good running-in should take care of the rest (the operative word being "should"). I've seen a couple of these AML 0-6-0s in action, and they (the ones I've seen anyway) are great running engines.
 

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The loose pin might have made a difference, but I would expect it to make the difference between running and not running at all in either direction. Definitely something you'll want to fix before running it again anyway.
 

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Running in just involves taking it easy - don't try to haul 25 boxcars for a while. Let the engine run light for a couple of runs. Keep plenty of oil on all the bearings.
INSPECT ALL the running gear and chassis bolts every couple of runs - and yes, get some loctite. My EBT #12 loosened all the bolts on the rear truck after a few months and I almost lost them.

And as Richard says, they do run better in one direction - hopefully forward.
 

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Corollary: In the process of wiping her down afterwards, noticed that the pin that holds the main rod & drag link to the piston shaft had popped out on the left side. Since that side of the loco was facing the wall while running, it's unclear if that was causing the unevenness or not.

It's alarming that that pin popped out, does it require some loc-tite to ensure it stays put in the future?
I had the identical issue with the same loco, the screws are not long enough, and do not allow it to be tightened down and still give clearance so the rod can rotate on the screw.

Give Cliff a call at Accucraft, and he will dispatch the proper replacement screws. When you get them, remove the old ones, clean the area of oil, put just a little Loctite on the screw threads and install the screws.
have not had a problem since.

Steve
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Ragged running in action

Here's a quick facebook video I posted that demonstrates how much more poorly this AML 0-6-0 runs in reverse. - It does run, and no pins were falling out today, but it'd be useful to know if this is "normal" or if the dead spots are something I should have Accucraft look into.

https://www.facebook.com/rick.j.cabral/videos/10154268972503515/

My apologies, I don't know how to embed it in this forum.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
I had the identical issue with the same loco, the screws are not long enough, and do not allow it to be tightened down and still give clearance so the rod can rotate on the screw.

Give Cliff a call at Accucraft, and he will dispatch the proper replacement screws. When you get them, remove the old ones, clean the area of oil, put just a little Loctite on the screw threads and install the screws.
have not had a problem since.

Steve
Hi Steve, do you have a direct email address for Cliff, or should I just go for [email protected]?
 

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I don't see anything in the video to be too concerned about. I can see she's noticeably choppier in reverse at low speed, but not more than I would expect for a piston valve engine running on rollers in outside-admission mode.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
I had the identical issue with the same loco, the screws are not long enough, and do not allow it to be tightened down and still give clearance so the rod can rotate on the screw.

Give Cliff a call at Accucraft, and he will dispatch the proper replacement screws. When you get them, remove the old ones, clean the area of oil, put just a little Loctite on the screw threads and install the screws.
have not had a problem since.

Steve
Ended up emailing Cliff, he sent me a replacement, but stated that it was going to be the same length due to clearance issues behind the piston rod support. I took both of mine off, wiped them down, and loctite'd them back in. Time will tell.
 

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Well, the shorter screw ripped out the back of the crosshead threads, and now im looking for a new crosshead and wristpin screw, I emailed them tonight hopefully they can get back to me. I need a new crosshead and the slightly longer wristpin screw (I think the live steam and electric version are the same in the running gear department). Also a solution is the running gear (or full new AML 0-6-0) for replacement parts... I just want my engine to run nice since it had a coal conversion.
 
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