Advice needed, Brand New C-18 tractive effort

All these comments seem perfectly normal for a new engine and new owners, if I can be allowed to say that, with the exception of the 15 min gas fill. Getting the tank full just takes practice and the right filler equipment. Try pressing down less, or more and be aware many fillers and tanks are different. Don't forget that those Ronson valves self-vent so you will see/hear air and a little gas venting out as you fill with liquid under pressure. When gas starts really blowing out, like when the safety valve pops, then you are full.

Traction is a whole different art form. My C-19 would easily spin its wheels when starting as it has lots of torque. Cylinder sizes have a lot to do with that, as do wheel diameters. Springing, to keep all 8 wheels on the rails, is another issue. See if you can figure out how much throttle is needed to set off with no wheel spin.

Wheels and the material they are made of does make a difference. The Ruby may have scrubbed the initial shine off the treads.

You are making me consider getting one. . .

I agree with the good advice by Pete Thornton above on the gas fill and wheel spinning that will require some driving practice but as to the loss of pressure when the water pump by-pass is on, putting cold water into the boiler, is normal and usually adjusting to a higher gas setting will see that be less. I must ask have you found the right setting for the water pump by pass as on nearly all my loco's a fully closed by pass (all water to boiler) does mean too much cold water and a big pressure drop, just cracked open enough to pump some water into the boiler and the rest back to tender requires practice to get the setting right.
Also just a thought, I haven't seen one of these engines so it's a big guess, as the loco has a type of fire that requires a little draught to pull heat through the fire tubes is the smoke box fully sealed? If there are air leaks the exhaust blast will not pull much heat through the fire tubes so that while running when higher heat is needed, such as water pump putting in more cold water and a pulling a light load running slowly, the exhaust blast does not pull more heat through.
I can only speak for my alcohol fired loco's that also require a sealed smokebox to pull the fire through the boiler where any air leaks results in poor performance and when running with a light load or slow speed I always put a tiny amount of blower on to pull more heat through the boiler tubes.
I suggest a test run again with a little blower put on, only a very slight amount and see if that makes any difference, and check if smokebox seals up air tight before you light up. On a 'draughted' boiler the exhaust pipe and blower gas should hit the chimney in the centre line and be also at the right height to work properly too. I am assuming here that a ceramic burner in a firebox that requires some draught to light properly will behave like other firebox fuel sources like alcohol or coal when running. This gas burner in the firebox may not be as 'sensitive' as alcohol or coal to blast pipe/ smokebox design but I think it will have some effect.
My most enjoyable locomotives to run are these boilers that need a good front end draught and also fitted with axle pumps as it's so like driving the real thing, so when you get the hang of it it is so good to properly drive and adjust everything on the loco for speed and load.
Russell

Your comments are exactly what I was looking for. Truthfully telling me I am lacking experience, not that I need to address a defect in the Loco. Please do not be bashful with constructive criticism with me.

Russell,
The last time I ran I had accidentally left the blower cracked while running and did notice a slight improvement in maintaining pressure at low speeds. I do see a draught leak in the bottom of the smoke box where the blast pipe comes up. because I'll see the steam escape there at really low blower settings. But I think that's a requirement for drainage.

Riograndefan,
You say that your pressure is up fast after using the hand pump, mine takes a good 4 minutes.
If you could, to compare apples to apples, time how long your engine takes to pop off after initial light off. And what air temp, fuel, water level..... I'm interested in comparing the boiler efficiency in our two engines. Like I stated before I suspect a blocked jet, but want to very before disassembly.

Pete,
While talking to another friend it occurred to me that my Ruby may take off with that consist, but the C-18 has the tender full of water and almost as much mass/inertia as the consist itself. So acceleration will be slow.

I still suspect the burner has something to be desired, but I'll keep playing with it a little longer before I start tinkering. But the tinkering is a fun part too.

Learning and engines "balance" is part of the process on every new model. How much blower at slow speeds(if any), does the bypass just need to be cracked or opened further? How many hand pumps can you get away with and not totally kill steam pressure and how many laps of a said layout before your engine needs attention. The labor intensive nature of steam locomotives was their downfall eventually in the 1 to 1 world. And we cannot be in the cab all the time to make those tiny adjustments on the fly like the fireman and engineer do. But once you learn your engines quirks and needs, they really come alive and you get very satisfying runs out of them. Going from a Ruby(think of a VW air cooled bug) to the C18(think high end sports car) is a major learning curve. Keep running, take notes on a pad of what works, what does not. Use a stopwatch to track various metrics during the run. Once you find the sweet spot and can repeat the same great run over and over, you will have found the engine's balance. Keep in mind that colder outdoor weather will affect the gas tank pressure, so warmer water in the tender will be needed and kept warm thru the duration of a longer run. Hence why you see at steamups in colder weather, a metal tea pot on a hot plate to give the runners hot boiler/tender tank water.

Thanks Mike,
I appreciate the reassurance that these engines are more nuanced than previously assumed. I imagine it would be a little boring if they all ran as simply as a Ruby. It explains why those that enjoy live steam tend to be tinkerers and not as satisfied by electrics. At least I'm not. I have been running room temperature water in my tender, that jug isn't insulated and does cool while sitting beside the track. I've been considering a large thermos dedicated to holding my distilled water to keep it warmer longer. Your mention of a kettle, should I be using warmer water? Say 90F as opposed to 68F that I am using now? I know that too hot of water could cause an over pressure of the gas tank. If I do run heated water, how warm is too hot in the tender?

I was able to pull the jet and ceramic burner from the Loco to inspect them. I tested them prior to doing anything on them.


I then pulled the jet and blew butane through it backwards. After doing so the ceramic burner flame evened out more.



It's a minor difference, but I believe it may have a significant impact.

Next chance I run I'll have a stopwatch to collect various metrics.

Tyler.