Just a thought... your headline suggested you are offering things, perhaps a question mark would direct helpful replies your way.
John

 

The only problem that I've ever had (that wasn't my fault) was a set screw that came loose in the running gear. Took me over an hour to find the right allen wrench but only 5 minutes to fix. Other than that I have just loved mine as you can tell by my Steam Alcoholics Member number.

 

The only issue that I'm aware of that is specific to these engines is that, like most Accucraft twin-flue/dual-burner engines, one of the burners will occasionally go out. On the K-28, it's hard to see what's going on in the fireman's side (engine left) flue because of the small, offset smokebox door, so you have to familiarize yourself with the sound of two lit burners vs. one, or if you're having trouble keeping the pressure up, just assume that burner is out and relight it. Apart from that, and perhaps the occasional clearance issue if your track is not set up for such a large engine, I believe the K-28 has generally been one of the better-performing and more trouble-free models from Accucraft.

 

Fire the locomotive via the stack with the front door(?) closed. If the flame seems to be stuck in the firebox pop your flat hand on the top of the stack and the flame immediately pops back with a noticeable wooosh. You can use a mini mirror to check the flame through the little front smokebox door. Probably a technique known to everyone but I saw it for the first in a youtube video not long ago and couldn't remember ever seeing anyone using the technique. It was an ah-ha why didn't I think of that moment. It works on any loco too.

My experience the burner that usually is trouble is the one with the superheater going thru the flue.

Alternatively a piezo electric lighter will work through the front door, but the only ones that will work (IMHO) is the one that has a metal pipe with the spark at the end. It produces a continuous spark when the trigger is held down. This produces a spark only not a flame. One is shaped like a gun with a pipe about 10" long - see below - is what I have. You don't need to see the flue or flame to know if it/they are lit. Insert the pipe thru the door opening a couple of inches then pull the trigger and hold it a second or two until you hear the flame pop back.

Using this particular piezo lighter to make sure both burners are going just angle the pipe a little left or right so it's in front of one flue then the other. If one burner is not lit you'll hear a second pop back of the flame. If there is no second pop back both burners are lit. With a little practice you no longer have to struggle to see if both burners are lit on any loco but particularly those really difficult to fire, like the K-28 or thee Accucraft Garratt. Practice using the piezo lighter on a loco with a fully opening front door so you can see as you're lighting off and then you will be able to do it by feel on the K-28.

My two cents and worth every dime...

This is the one I have. The Amazon link is;
http://www.amazon.com/Camco-57533-Olympian-Multi-Sparker/dp/B000EDSTAG/ref=sr_1_1?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1424295627&sr=1-1&keywords=piezo+electric+lighter

 

As RW mentioned this is one wide locomotive -- IIRC it is as wide at the cylinders as a K-36. This means that the locomotive can not clear upright target style switch stands on Sunset Valley turnouts. Only ground throws will work unless the switch stand ties are lengthened.

One other minor deal is the tender pump. Plan on never using this in normal running and you'll do fine. The Ks run so long on one fill of water that when they run low it is past time to let someone else on the track! Also the check valve for the tender pump can leak and drip down onto the left burner and blow it out. The same was true on my K-36 and I just removed the check valve and installed a plug (5mm?). If you want to be able to add water while underway, get a Goodall valve equipped cap for the boiler and a decent quality pump to go with it. But see second sentence above!!

The K-28 is one of the best running and pulling Accucraft narrow gauge locos. You'll love it!

Ross Schlabach

 

I agree with RWJ and "beam me up" Scott. The lighter Chris recommends has made running the K-28 and the Cab Forward much more enjoyable.

 

All I can say is i'm aware that it's the K with the junk on the front. I want a green one!

Andrew

 

I had trouble with the by-pass

 

and I just removed the check valve and installed a plug (5mm?).

The Accucraft check valves are a bit troublesome, but I found that taking it apart and cleaning the valve surfaces, plus making sure it was sealed with teflon or similar tape on the threads (backhead and between the two halves of the valve,) made it trouble free.

But I agree with Ross about it being time to get off the track when you get low on water!

 

Lorna, I have a K-28 that I love but was my first engine and thus, more complicated than I was prepared for. On its first run, it too lost a set screw on the running gear, despite me being pre-warned and checking for loose ones. The firing is a learned technique-sound is important as I find the dentist's mirror fogs up. At certain angles on an elevated track you can see the fire in the fireman's side burner. I was helped by John Frank and others here in advice on r/c and firing it. I have a Piezo lighter but not as good as the one suggested so I gained from your query. The only continuing issue for me is that the K-28, unlike my other live steam engines, demands a near-perfect track and switches to go through. I have a longish gravel based garden layout and the K has certainly been the cause of efforts to more carefully level it each spring. It can go around a few times but then derail on two switches. I am replacing those switches this spring. What others have suggested for issues such as mine where track is less than perfect is the removal of two of the four drivers' springs on each side which apparently from previous K-28 threads here removed a problem of its being picky on some tracks. It is still my favourite engine because of its prototype history.
Myron

 

Well went ahead and got the thing. What a monster! By far the biggest locomotive I have ever gotten. A beauty to boot despite a slightly bend pilot (not sure yet how to straighten that out).

I remember riding behind one of these a few times when my dad took me to the Silverton line and it brought back many happy memories.

 

Any doubts you have will disappear once you get her cylinders cleared the first time and watch her just move down the line like a stately queen - just smooth power.

BTW..... If you do run out of water and run her dry you will get to see your number boards on the front just quietly melt. Don't ask how I know this.....

 

Lorna,
It may not be a K28, but you can still ride behind a K27 at Huckleberry Railroad, just north of Flint, Michigan.

 

This engine will not clear some ground throws either, such as the tenmille. Depending on where it is located, like coming off a curve, it will hit and break off the plastic screw insert. I have re-located a few. All you have to do is move the throw out a little. I also don't use the tender hand pump. It doesn't work very well and the tender floor is too thin and moves when you pump. The 'sniffer' valves on the cylinders break off easily. It's a beautiful engine and runs well. I have one and love it.

 

This engine will not clear some ground throws either, such as the tenmille. Depending on where it is located, like coming off a curve, it will hit and break off the plastic screw insert. I have re-located a few. All you have to do is move the throw out a little. I also don't use the tender hand pump. It doesn't work very well and the tender floor is too thin and moves when you pump. The 'sniffer' valves on the cylinders break off easily. It's a beautiful engine and runs well. I have one and love it.

John, I replaced the check valve and all the issues went away. I still use the stock pump no problem. The check valve was restricting the flow.

 

My ACC K28 LS set-screws loosened up on the axle counterweights, and the wheels/side rods started binding. I can get the alignment left and right set at the quarter point, tighten the set-scows, and generally get the engine running as 'ok' in forward, but not in reverse, as it just binds/tighten-up. Further adjustments, as logical as they seem to me, just don't work. Does anyone know of any instructions, you-tube video, guidance, or someone that can give guidance on how to refine the running gear alignment to run smooth again? My next call is to Cliff at Accucraft. Thanks in advance, Doug