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When you say 'rock', did the wheels rotate at least a couple of revolutions?
I find that it is very hard to solve mysteries without seeing and hearing what is going on.
If I were you, try and find someone locally with live steam experience who can help diagnose the problem.
One 'possibly messy' thing that you can try, to make sure that steam is getting to the cylinders, is to remove the lubricator cap, and carefully open the throttle to check that steam comes out.
Of course a bunch of oil may also be forced out, but at least you will know that steam is getting to the cylinders.
Did you buy this Ready to Run, or build it from a kit?
Maybe Bednariks at Triple R can be of service to you if you can't get it running.
Cheers,
David Leech, Delta, Canada
 

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Discussion Starter · #22 ·
The wheels did rotate just fine without issue. I bought it RTR, I don't have enough confidence in my mechanical abilities to build one.
 

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So, was there little or no resistance when pushing it?
With the regulator open, it should not be very free to roll.
Are you sure when you rotate the regulator arm, that the actual regulator spindle in turning.
Often when a loco cools down, if the regulator is closed tight, it may seize up closed.
Normally the next time it is heated up with the boiler heat, it will come loose, but also sometimes the actual arm will come loose on the spindle.
Then when you think that the steam is getting to the cylinders, it really isn't.
Might be worth checking.
Before I steam up, I always make sure both regulator and blower are opening and closing freely.
Cheers,
David Leech, Delta, Canada
 

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If there is NO steam coming out of the drains, then we must assume that no steam is getting to the cylinders, which will be another problem to solve.
I tried rocking the engine on track today without success, some water came out of the cylinders but no steam followed into the cylinders.
Well, we're going to assume you had it in gear (forward or reverse) and you opened the throttle; the basic stuff.
A few more suggestions:
  • take a close look at the valve gear and make sure the reversing lever is moving the link up or down in the rocking expansion link. Walschaerts valve gear - Wikipedia
  • you could take a look at a GIF of the valve gear so you see which parts move, and then take a look at your engine and confirm the same parts seem to work the same way.
  • steam from the throttle valve passes by/through the lubricator. To confirm the valve is working, remove the cap on the lubricator and get the boiler hot until you have a little pressure, then open the trottle as David suggested.
 

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I photographed the safety valves on my 5MT. It is the Aster version but I would imagine pretty much identical. Not obvious from the pics, but each safety should be set by a pinch mark to stop it moving. I did have an instance on another Aster engine where the safety had begun to unscrew - maybe that is the issue here - if so adjust it by tightening with needle nose pliers and fix with a tiny drop of paint. Ideally, you do this with a compressor - tighten until the back is blowing first, then back off a little.

View attachment 61401

Robert
I have the Aster BR5. A good running engine. I test my safety and adjust the safety valves with compressed air as shown in video.

Appears to me that a standard Wee Bee valve would not fit the BR5. The valve mounting hole is 8 mm below the liner and the hole is only 8.5 mm . You may need a special made valve. I would recommend you insure the safety valve is not leaking then work on other possible problems.
 
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