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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
For the past few weeks, Tim and I have been restoring a couple of Bachmann Spectrum 4-4-0s. One came from a museum and seems to have been dropped and trampled on, not to mention having really dull brass and no coupling rods:

IMG_4210-Museum-4-4-0
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The other came in a barn sale from Ohio, and was the plain blue painted-but-unlettered version. However, it came in pieces:

Untitled-1_4-4-0_bits
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Tim is helping out the museum, which is why we bought the Ohio stash - to give him parts to fix the museum 4-4-0. However, it turned out his museum loco was the valuable “Eureka” version, one of which sold on eBay for $699 recently [that was a ‘new’ one - ours clearly isn’t.]
We also found the 'Eureka" tender had a Phoenix sound system in it. This is the programming jack:

IMG_4276-museum440
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Interestingly, both had good gears - maybe they had been fixed. But the museum’s Eureka chassis (engine and tender) was a mess:

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IMG_4279-museum440
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So we made the obvious decision to use the good chassis from the Ohio pile of bits along with the so-so body of the Eureka to make one good loco.
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
The ohio tender also had some interesting bits in it, but no sound card.

IMG_4350-ohio-440-tender
IMG_4350-ohio-440-tender2016×1124 429 KB


This will become the tender for the museum loco. Tim got some trucks from Bachmann and the Eureka tender is almost in good shape.

IMG_4281-tims museum-tender
IMG_4281-tims museum-tender1920×1440 247 KB


The ‘almost’ is because someone broke off the drawbar pin and removed the pcb with the cable connectors. Both locos are missing cabling and a drawbar between them, though Tim found one.

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So, Tim is now an expert at dismantling these locos as he had all the parts, and he had no trouble putting the good chassis under the Eureka. He then passed it to me with the tender, with a request to fix the wiring and the sound.
These locos have a little pcb on the body (just visible in this pic,) and a similar one on the chassis that has springy metal tabs - the idea being to pass wheel pickup power to the motor. I’d never seen one before, but when I found it on the B’mann wiring diagram and asked Tim, he found 2 of them!
IMG_4319

Then there’s another connector back to the motor. I had to replace them with a pair of connectors, though I could have reused the chassis plate which turned out to be in the stash of bits from Ohio.

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This chassis has no springs under the hornblocks (wheel bearing blocks.) Except for one:

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Not quite in the right place! So I removed it and inserted 4 soft springs under the blocks/axles. Not as strong as the originals but they will help.
There’s a cable from the wheel pickups that goes under the cab to meet the tender pickups, and another cable from the chuff trigger feelers on the back axle. I plugged in my 12V to the track pickups and mounted the loco on rollers, and it worked. I then put an LED in the headlight and it worked too! There’s a firebox flicker circuit which may work, but I haven’t seen it yet.
As far as we can see, the Eureka boiler is complete with wiring, weights, and switches behind the smokebox door. There’s a couple of snipped wires there, which look like the smoke unit supply, but we’re not fixing that.

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The Eureka tender now has a speaker, wiring and a tested Phoenix board. The next step is to put connectors on the chuff wires from the engine and test all the electrics.
Tim has all the parts ready to fit. I got the domes out to see how they looked:

20211109_102556_eureka-prep
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Apart from the tarnished brass, they are fine. We’ve been weighing how to polish the boiler bands without hurting the bodywork paint. Tim volunteered to apply Brasso with a Q-tip. That bell will need the same treatment.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
The other loco is slowly starting to look like it will come together. Tim had all kinds of small fixes to make - the piston rod supports were broken, etc.

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He’s a great guy with bits of Lego. This chassis is now working, but missing a coupling rod. He made one from some bits from a Big Hauler:

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B’mann has the 2-6-0 rods in stock, which we got, but the pivot is the wrong side of the center driver so we’re waiting to see how the plastic rod holds up before we cut it.

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As the blue body was scratched, and Tim was targetting a model of a Charlotte Harbour & Northern 4-4-0, he painted it black. It came out quite nicely, especially when he added gold mylar boiler bands:

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This museum boiler had no domes when it arrived, so Tim got some parts (dome base, top, and a stack,) from Trackside Details. They are set up so you can add any length of tube in between base and top, so he dug around the local construction trash and found a good size tube:

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He now has a good looking boiler, especially with the gold mylar around the domes and the brass stack:

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I’m not a fan of the coupling rods he made, but we’ll see how they work out when it runs on the ceiling layout at the museum.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Moving back to our Eureka, I finished installing and testing the sound card. The volume control works - the cables weren't properly in the terminals, and someone made a space in the toolbox for the switch. The other cable is the programming plug.

Circuit component Electronic instrument Electrical wiring Computer hardware Gas


Some of the foamcore at the front had to be cut before it would clear the tender body. Once I had the body on, I placed it with the loco chassis to measure the drawbar. Adding the dome parts loosely gave me another photo-op:

Train Wheel Vehicle Rolling stock Steam engine


We're also working on the rear footboard. I found an old Davenport one that had broken off (why does Bachmann attach footboards with scale-size bits of plastic? They break instantly.) It should work now that I put a knuckle coupler on the tender.

Wood Machine tool Auto part Automotive wheel system Engineering


And finally, the drawbar had to be re-engineered, as someone had broken off the pin on the tender pcb and also the screwed-on drawbar. As Tim had to buy new trucks with couplers, the front had the coupler tongue, so I drilled a hole in it. Then I constructed a short drawbar from brass, and drilled and tapped an M2.5 hole in the chassis. Here it is all bolted together with a spring to keep the drawbar where it is supposed to be.

Automotive tire Wheel Motor vehicle Wood Rim


The cable in front is from the chuff trigger. I had read several comments saying the fitted wipers on the back axle aren't very good - dropped chuffs being the first problem. That's what I experienced while testing. Despite cleaning the chuff drum and fingers, it hasn't improved.
 
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