[Greg Elmassian]

Nope keep 'em coming... if no one was interested, there would be no replies!

 

[DocDup1]

Thanks I appreciate the advice. I feel the same way on the old car forums If I can share my experience to help keep the hobby going it is a good thing.

 

[du-bousquetaire]

Also Doc Dup1 do not forget that a modelrailroad can evolve, IE you might want to install the layout as a revers loop set up and then move on to a dog bone as you discover its limitations; Pentimento isn't just for painters; most of my layouts have had important rebuilding session over time. (Pentimento is an art term meaning when a painter reworks a painting sometime recoverng completly the original version)

 

[Trainslayer53]

I have been battery powered(dead-rail) for 29 years and would never go back to track power. I can take my locomotives to any layout and run and the great thing is no rail cleaning to get power continuity. I started with AirWire which needs a decoder installed in the locomotive or a trailing car/tender if steam loco, a speaker if not already installed, a battery, a separate sound decoder and a hand held controller. A cheaper way to go is with RailPro or Blunami. With RailPro you still need a decoder but no separate sound decoder, a speaker, a battery and a controller. With Blunami it's even a little cheaper because you don't need a controller, it decoder is WiFi and can be controlled with any cell phone. If you have more questions you can message me on FaceBook for my number or E-mail me at trainslayer53@gmail.com.

 

[Greg Elmassian]

So, when the OP says I'm using track power, I'm going to allow 3 posts about going battery power (and likewise for people using batteries).

Going on and on about battery power vs track is NOT helpful to the poster, nor the topic, or the helpfulness of the forum.

That's 2 battery is better posts...

Different strokes for different folks.

Greg

 

[toddalin]

It occured to me that there is a simple way to let multiple trains run on a reversing loop set-up without those on the mainline changing direction. You would still need the rails to change polarity when the train is in the loop so that the train doesn't create a short when it comes out of the loop and has wheels both in the loop and on the mainline.

The solution is to simply put a bridge rectifier in each engine so that they only go forward regardless of the track current's direction. A DPDT switch would allow one to by-pass the rectifier when normal engine operation is desired. This could also save a lot of accidental crashes when one realizes that the engines will only go forward.

BTW, this is an original idea that just came to me that I've never seen executed anywhere. (Thanks for the challenge Greg. )

 

[Greg Elmassian]

Yeah, that would work, nice idea.

(By the way DCC works because the polarity (really phase) of the AC signal does not matter to the decoder, so the reversing loop can change polarity, not the main line, as with most other DC autoreversers)

 

[toddalin]

BTW, with the bridge rectifier fitted into the engine, one does not need to flip the polarity of the mainline affecting anything else that may be out there.

One only needs to flip the polarity of the loop section while the train is in there. The bridge rectifier will keep the train going in the same direction and when the polarity flips, the wheels both inside and outside of the loop will again be in "sync."

 

[Greg Elmassian]

I think the biggest issue, is without detecting a short and immediately reversing the loop, you will produce a short through the loco's wiring...

you have to have automation somewhere. you might get away with a "dead zone" between to reverse polarity sections to avoid this, but then is there enough momentum to coast through? not good on drive trains.

No, there needs to be something to automate this, or a human at a reversing switch.

But we are getting a bit far afield... for track power and reversing loops, DCC is the easiest, DC needs a solution like the Massoth that can detect shorting and immediately reverse OR it can have a short "sensor" section to allow it to reverse without a short.

 

[du-bousquetaire]

There is another solution for manual operation. On my line the main is an oval and it is fed by two legs of a wye, this permits turning entire trains before entering or after leaving the indoor terminal or to reverse extra large engines such as my PRR T1, or chalengers, Big boys, cab forwards and Aleghenies which won't turn on the turntable. On one leg, I made an insulated sections as long as the longest loco (An A-B-A set of Alco PA1) this section is fed through a double pole double throw switch, in my case in the form of a Chinese made knife switch hidden under an interlocking tower. The point here is, that it can stay outdoors forever and will outlast me. I am mentioning this solution for those who do not like electronics especially electronics outdoors. It is of course not a solution for a continuous run through a set of reversing loops; but ideal in my case for an occasional train that needs to change directions only now and then.
The procedure is to set it in the incoming direction so that the locomotive of the train enters this section and stops within the limits of this section. I then simply change the polarity of the knife switch, then the polarity on my revolution train engineer handheld to suit the new direction on the main, which the engine and train are about to enter, then I procede onto the main (or in towards the indoor terminus). This also follows prototype operation where a train coming through a junction, interchange or wye would likely be obliged to stop before proceding into the main. I should interlock this system with the signal protecting the main. In this photo the insulated section is to the right of the tower just before entering the main (my 46 year old hanlaid track).

 

[DocDup1]

Thanks again everyone, there is a lot of good information here. Unfortunately, all of my train activity will have to be on hold for a while. I am fortunate in that I have my original home in Santa Barbara and I just went down there for the first time in over two months. When I walked in, I discovered that a pipe had broken and the kitchen and living room were soaked. The repairs will take months and lots of money.

 

[Greg Elmassian]

Sorry to hear that, the insurance companies down here in San Diego are now requiring leak detection systems on the main water feed.

Still, please continue your journey and throw out ideas and questions.

 

[DocDup1]

Thanks, I do have great insurance through USAA and they have already started the clean up. My problem now is that I live up on the Monterey Peninsula and I am 250 miles away from the repairs. I have to go down and meet with the contractor next week and I have to stay in a hotel since my house is not available. I realized that I don't travel much anymore when I checked out the cost of a motel room. When I did an online search, the first option that came up was Motel 6 at $175 per night when you include in the fees etc. The online sites can bring that down some, but it was still an eye opener. I guess this will be a learning experience for sure. One objective for this week will be to bring all of my trains up and get everything in one place. That should be good therapy.