G Scale Model Train Forum banner
1 - 20 of 725 Posts

fyrekop

· Registered
Joined
·
590 Posts
Discussion starter · #1 ·
Since it was suggested by SD90WLMT AKA Dirk that there would be interest in another Southern AZ site I'm giving this a shot. In the past I've had HO and N gauge trains but since moving to AZ from CA I finally have room for G scale. Thanks to the guys at the Train Stop in Tucson I received a Aristocraft Live Steam Mikado for Christmas several years ago and that really started this project. As I'm a total newbie to the scale, MLS members have been a great help and inspiration. My site is about 70' x 35' and wraps around a mesquite tree that has some of the wife's roses planted around it. I'm not into kneeling on gravel all the time so two walls were required to raise the site about 20" above grade and separate the tree and roses from my "toys". Track planning has been done with 2 of the commercial software packages available and track spacing is based upon suggestions from MLS members to questions posted in the Beginner's Forum. I'm planning on staying with 1:29 and 1:24 scale, but again at suggestions from MLS folks I'm going to build big enough to handle 1:20.3 in case there are visitors that want to run their own equipment.
The project has gone from "When I win the lottery" size to "Darn that's a lot of bricks to carry."
200 bricks for around the tree and roses then 1600 (10+ pallets) for that 20" wall. Add 14 dump truck loads of dirt, trench in 2 power drops (1 20 amp the other 15 amp) and a water supply. That's were I'm at so far. As soon as I figure out how to add photos to this site I'll do so. I'm sure I'll get plenty of feedback, along with chuckles, guffaws, and shaking heads from members. Alll suggestions are appreciated, although some will be taken with a grain of salt, I'm sure.
 
Discussion starter · #12 ·
Thanks for the tech help. Now if I can just get it to work. :) Now quick description of the photos that Andrew was kind enough to post correctly.
#1- site from east to west. There is about a 8" drop from the west to the east side. Already have the wall in place around the tree and roses.
#2 - looking north from the patio. I was limited to the west side due to leach-field pipes and to the east by new fruit trees
#3 - Marking stakes and string for outer wall and 3' walkway around the tree.
#4 - Scraping up several tons of gravel. Gravel was moved to other places in the yard rather than bury it which helped to offset future landscaping costs
 
Discussion starter · #15 ·
Dirk walked me through how to put in the photos and even I can do it now. :)

I started the wall around the tree since yard drains from west to east which is a major consideration during the monsoons. The first course of block is in and leveled and extends out to the pathway opening. Marking stakes and string indicate where the wall will go.



Some time, and 1400 blocks, later the wall was done but I had to take down a section for the trucks to haul in the dirt.



After the driver made sure I had removed enough wall, he backed in and the real fun began.

 
Discussion starter · #16 ·
Those trucks hold a lot of dirt




Then the dirt has to be moved from the big pile to fill in around the tree and out to the edges while the driver is going to get the next load. How many shovel loads does it take to move and level 200 cubic feet of dirt?
I have no idea. Work smarter not harder. :)



After 12 or 13 loads my helper showed up to start compacting the dirt.



After final load of dirt was delivered, the wall was rebuilt and back fill done. That was by the shovel full and I lost count after 25 or 30.



Fill in place and now letting nature aka rain and snow continue to compact the dirt. At the left end of the wall is the frame for my power station. To the left of framework is a water faucet disguised as a "rock". Rock was made using hydraulic cement method that I found on another thread in MLS. Flagstone pathway out to tree and roses has been started in the lower right.

 
Discussion starter · #20 ·
Now that distractions like having the house painted, daughter getting a new house that needed to be painted before she could move in (I'm thinking of starting a moving company so I can get paid for a sore back) I've been able to do some work on the train site before it gets too warm in the afternoons. As part of initial planning I determined that power drop from the closest existing 20 amp plug might be an issue. To solve that problem I dug a 50' trench from the 50 amp RV breaker box, added a 20 amp breaker, and conduit for large wire romex out to the site. Since the trench was already dug I tapped into a water line and put in a faucet, just in case I added a water feature later on. Not wanting the haul power supplies, boosters and other electronics out to the site, I built a Power Station to hold it all out of the weather. Materials included exterior grade Hardie-Board as sidings.




Power line in and 1" PVC out to track through bottom shelf



1" PVC from Power Station into train site. Estimate I'll need 4 or 5 sets of #10 wire for blocks, accessories, and low voltage cable



Shelves in place about 12" high



Sides up awaiting metal roof plus rock collection



And so it grows :)
 
Discussion starter · #27 ·
Thanks to all for the thoughts. Monsoons can be an issue here, last year I had a water line on my back fence 16 inches AGL where the fence drains are located in the northeast corner. Of course 30 minutes after the rain stopped all that was left was the dirt and debris line on the wall. I'm hoping that this years rains will drop the dirt level about an inch or so as it compacts so I'll have space to put down decorative gravel when track is in place.

Nice and warm (99 according to thermometer under the patio cover) here the past couple of days. I've been trenching to put in conduit. Ground is still soft enough to use a hoe with a little assistance from the pick. Finished up from the Power Station, along the north side, around the tree to the edge of the pathway this morning before it got too hot. Nine 10' sections, 4 junction boxes, 5 "Tween the track T's", 2 45 degree curves, plus some shorter cuts of pipe. Another Lowe's run for more pipe to finish up the south wall and then figure out where to trench for the inner loop. 30' between junction boxes based on advice from Greg E. and Dirk for power to tracks using DCC. Using round 4 hole boxes from Lowe's and "T" off a 12" section of conduit so wires will come up between the parallel (more or less) ovals that follow the wall. Plugged the 4th hole but didn't glue them shut so it's available for future expansion.



Official dirt checker at work



Main junction box, first split out with T



North side looking west with two junctions



East side around restricted space for roses and tree

South side to pathway. Moved away from wall due to sharp curve




T at end of run. Conduit along south wall will end on other side of walkway.

I'm thinking of building a wood bridge, level with the top pf the wall, for the pathway and cutting slots to hold Slip-Jaw brand walk way track rather than have 3 train bridges cross over the gap.

Once south side is done it's time to start pulling wire.

Existing rocks will be joined by others to build a "Cliff" and raise the west end and center of the site about 16 - 18 inches requiring "Bridges and Tunnels". As Dirk and John know, finding rocks around here isn't the hard part. It's picking them up and carrying them around that's a pain. :)

Ted, I'm located one long block west of Highway 92. The the back (north side) wall parallel's Kachina Trail. If you're on Kachina Trail driving west from 92 you can see the RV and solar panels in the back yard. I've been thinking about joining Tucson GRS for a couple of years but until recently only had trains on display in the house.
 
Discussion starter · #28 ·
The E-Bay Gods smiled on me and my latest purchase turned out to be 12 sections of 20' diameter track, R10 for the radius folks. I did a little math before buying and came up with a diameter of 12' to 15' which fits into my track plan. Was very happy my math was off since 20' is the largest curve I'm planing at this point. .
It has been in the mid to high 90's here so instead of digging trenches for conduit I did a little "plan checking". Using a high-tech compass I located the center point of the curve at the northwest corner (junior high school geometry class was a long time ago) and marked the dirt, then laid down several sections of my new (used) track. Not exactly on the marks but only a bit of tweaking was needed to line things up the right distance from the outer wall.

String line and spray paint from end of straight attached to curved a measured 6" from wall for the outer track and 15 " for inner loop.




Facing west at slight angle to show track location and junction box for power. Extension for junction will need to be cut so "T" is between the tracks. High_Tech compass still in place at center point of curve.



Midpoint of north wall facing into the curve. High-Tech compass still in place at center point of curve.





Entering the curve. Added wall blocks to see what 12" outer wall looks like and placed some of rock collection about 6" inside marks for inner loop.




Wanted to make sure I have plenty of room between inner loop and wall for raised area in center of site. Possible tunnel site. Rocks will be replaced with concrete block if the tunnel goes in and areas that can be seen will have rock faces. Closer view of high-tech compass.



Looking south through the curve with outer wall blocking view of track. Looking more and more like a tunnel site. The main power junction box with extension (covered by board) for power to inside loop and junction box with "T" for outer loops require track to curve around a little. Will probably have a large, movable, rock or other feature to explain the curve and still have access to junction boxes. The piece of semi-straight track currently attached will be replaced or bent to make the curve.



Looking north from the Power Station





Seeing track, even temporarily, in place is a real motivator. :)
 
Discussion starter · #30 ·
John, I agree about cutting. Also have this brand new dual rail bender I'm waiting to try out and that may well be the perfect place to start. Been looking at other threads about tunnels and various ways to make them. May end up with concrete roadbed around those curves since it won't be seen.

Alan
 
Discussion starter · #31 ·
Also going to start looking for a couple of CHEAP 1:20.3 boxcars to use during track placement. I don't want a visitor's favorite Spectrum to find a tight spot after the track is in place or tunnels built.
 
Discussion starter · #36 ·
I have been working on site drawings for some time but have now firmed it up a bit as the infrastructure is coming together. The attached picture is a 1:75 scale look using AnyRail software.



Hope this makes it easier to track what is actually being done. Early days since it's around 100 degrees here today
 
Discussion starter · #38 ·
Chuck
I'm wiring it for DCC so I'll need to look into a separate booster or maybe an automatic reversing module. I think I read about there being one for wye's but can't remember where.
The double crossover will be where all those cones are on the #1 and #2 mains above the Bazemore Mine text box. I was watching the video of Ron's BRR and that crossover he put together looked great (Wonder if he does orders-to-go?)
Not really a part of the thread but the mine, first named area on the site, is in memory of a good friend (Panel W26 Line 24 on The Wall)
Alan
 
Discussion starter · #42 ·
The plan for the"Yard" is a covered shed for store rolling stock and engines as they are acquired. The line outside of the blue area will be a steam-up area for live steam as well as a place for visitor's to place engines and cars prior to heading out to the main lines. I remember someone located in Australia that had a great idea and built a slide that made getting rolling stock onto the rails easy. Another one of those "Now where did I see that?" things. The yard and steam-up will be on ladder system about 2 1/2 feet off the ground for those of us that don't like bending over anymore than we have to. :) When ready to start putting in electronics I'll be seeking help on where to gap the rails properly.
 
Discussion starter · #43 ·
A bit more for the trains then I took a break to put in some time towards the "Yes, it really will be part of the garden" list.
I finished up the last section of conduit for the two outer loops and now I'm sort of ready to begin puling wire. Also slapped a coat of paint on the Power Station before the rains really decide to start. Hardi Board yellow isn't part of the RR paint scheme.




Some friendly tips from a Lowe's person should be a big help in pulling wire. The 4 reels of #10 stranded wire are in the shed waiting but on hold until I finish up a bit of the "Yes, it's part of the garden" projects. While Dirk is building a picnic area in the middle of his site I went smaller and put in a "Oh aren't the roses pretty" area. Needless to say, guests won't be required to walk on the gravel.



Looking north from unfinished pathway. Flagstone will continue around to meet at the foot of the yet-to-be-built bridge.



Next trip to Lowe's will be for more leveling sand and a bunch of bags of that decorative rock . The track isn't really going on the wall.



This is the narrowest part of the site and will eventually have 3 parallel tracks looping around the tree. The two sections show how narrow it is but Dirk used his finely tuned 0-5-0 measuring device to assure me that all three really would fit even with the third track being slightly elevated as it returns from the mountain loop.

We actually got a few drops of rain and some lightning yesterday so the door latch and temporary roof went on the power station, along with a coat of paint. Monsoons don't officially start until the 22nd or 23rd but we all keep hoping they will be early.



Clouds coming over the Huachuca Mountains may bring us a few more drops tonight. And I just heard some thunder in the distance. All good signs

 
Discussion starter · #46 ·
I've been working on the pathway during the early morning before the temps get into the high 80's. This is a hobby after all. I won't finish up this area until the bridge is built and in place so flagstone and rock will be slightly under the lowest step. My wife saw a yard that has flagstones stacked to make steps and that may be what I end up doing for the bottom step if I have enough stone left over after all paths are finished.

Entry into the rose/tree restriction zone



A couple of pictures from the north side of the site








Pathway to the right will be bridged using Trex positioned about an inch above the top of the wall.



I'm looking at buying SplitJaw walk-on tracks and will cut channels in the bridge slats so the rails are level as they pass over the bridge. I think Brandon did a thread on the walk-on track a year or so ago but would like to hear from anyone that has used them. Pros and cons appreciated.
 
Discussion starter · #50 ·
When the site was built around the roses and tree one consideration was how to complete the loops that went around it. Since I wasn't going to end everything to the east of the tree that left two options. Buy 3 bridges that could be moved out of the way or bridge the gap and put in permanent track. The checkbook answered those questions so I'm building a deck/bridge to cover the gap.




Basic framing in place and attaching stair risers. The decking is only 20" above grade but figured at least one side needed a railing for train watchers and those with balance problems when leaving the ground. Railing toward the major portion of the site to accommodate train watchers :) Another consideration was how far the stairs would intrude into the pathway around the tree. To make sure it wasn't a major issue the construction started at the tree path and went south to the outer wall.



Did an "eyeball" measurement with the wall to the west of the stairs to line them up and it looks like it will work.
Using TREX 1x6 boards as decking material and will cut it as close to the walls as possible to keep little feet from finding a gap to step into.
Ordered some SplitJaw Walk-on track and will dado the decking so rails are even with the top of the boards and reduce tripping hazards.

Cloudy here the past 2 days, temps still in the mid to high 90's, and no rain yet :-(
 
Discussion starter · #61 ·
Happy 4th of July to all.

Yep the monsoons are here. Had about 1/2" of water running through the drainage areas (the red rock that looks like a driveway) a couple of nights ago and puddles on the driveway this AM. Starting to pack down the site and makes it a little easier to work on pathways. Temp's still in the high 70's at 6:AM but topping out around 90 by noon. Drinking lots of water while working on bridge and leveling pathway. And does anyone need some rocks. These were about an inch below the surface when I was working on the area leading into the roses area. One reason a pick is a required tool around here even when ground it wet.




Finished up the bridge and pathway today. The TREX, supported by 2x6's 12" on center, doesn't move much even when hot and it's leveled 5/8 inch above the top of the wall for placement of walk-on track that was shipped out yesterday.





I got a little carried away blending the decking as close as possible to the wall. I need to find an appropriate warning sign to place to the east side so no one walks off the edge going up the stairs. TREX gets really flexie when more than 8 inches from any support.




I added a third stair riser to the tree end of the bridge to deal with felxie TREX issue next to the wall.



Added a few more pieces of flagstone and several bags of white rock to finish up the path around the tree.



Will put out more roses the next time Dirk is here, but for now they sitting up under the patio overhang.







Again a Happy 4th to all
 
1 - 20 of 725 Posts