As a followup to my prior post requesting feedback from you all, I started the build last Thurs.
I got some bevel gears on eBay and had some spur gear stock for the drive gears
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I made a gear case which worked out ok but not great. I ordered a helical gear set which I may change out. as the gear box just bolts in with the four bolts shown. It should be easy. Shapeways has skewed bevel gears but not the ratio I want.
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I am using Aster trucks which eliminates a lot of time. The frame is a simple box frame and my crossmembers are similar to the prototype.
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I have three of the U joints and will only have to make one. The square stock is 4 mm and I didn't have any matching material but they were easily filed down to accept K&S 3/16" square tubing.
![Image]()
The cylinders are made using the same technique I use on most of my other builds. I start with 1" square stock and round one corner on the router and then bore it out in the lathe with a four jaw self centering chuck. I then wrap a piece of 600 sandpaper around a dowel to smooth out any machining marks.
![Image]()
Here is where I deviate from the norm. The Climax has a smaller valve chest and pronounced circular cylinder. In the Lathe, I trim 1/8" on both sides to 1" round. then on the mill, I remove 1.8" from the ends of the valve body mount. I then remove the small raised portion which is left with three passes with a 1/4" end mill, rotating the cylinder slightly between passes. the final rounding is done with a file and the 1" belt sander.
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The ports and mounting holes are done on the mill/
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The exhaust port is drilled and relieved and the four 4-40 threaded holes will be used for mounting the cylinder to the engine frame.
![Image]()
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The engine frame is much more complex than the main frame. I got a pretty dirty pice of brass from the metal yard which was good because the scribe marks show up better that way. I first scribe my center lines and cut lines and before i make any cuts, I drill all of my holes using the DRO on the mill.
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The half circle for the crankshaft is done by drilling the hole before making the 22-1/2 degree cut.
![Image]()
The 22-1/2 cut is done on the crosscut fixture and parallel cuts are done against the rip fence. The uncut portion is finished on the band saw.
![Image]()
The finished blank is compared to the drawing
![Image]()
The fender is made by cutting a piece of .080" sheet stock to .400 wide, annealing it and bending it to shape. the solder is Staybrite
![Image]()
I got some bevel gears on eBay and had some spur gear stock for the drive gears
I made a gear case which worked out ok but not great. I ordered a helical gear set which I may change out. as the gear box just bolts in with the four bolts shown. It should be easy. Shapeways has skewed bevel gears but not the ratio I want.
I am using Aster trucks which eliminates a lot of time. The frame is a simple box frame and my crossmembers are similar to the prototype.
I have three of the U joints and will only have to make one. The square stock is 4 mm and I didn't have any matching material but they were easily filed down to accept K&S 3/16" square tubing.
The cylinders are made using the same technique I use on most of my other builds. I start with 1" square stock and round one corner on the router and then bore it out in the lathe with a four jaw self centering chuck. I then wrap a piece of 600 sandpaper around a dowel to smooth out any machining marks.
Here is where I deviate from the norm. The Climax has a smaller valve chest and pronounced circular cylinder. In the Lathe, I trim 1/8" on both sides to 1" round. then on the mill, I remove 1.8" from the ends of the valve body mount. I then remove the small raised portion which is left with three passes with a 1/4" end mill, rotating the cylinder slightly between passes. the final rounding is done with a file and the 1" belt sander.
The ports and mounting holes are done on the mill/
The exhaust port is drilled and relieved and the four 4-40 threaded holes will be used for mounting the cylinder to the engine frame.
The engine frame is much more complex than the main frame. I got a pretty dirty pice of brass from the metal yard which was good because the scribe marks show up better that way. I first scribe my center lines and cut lines and before i make any cuts, I drill all of my holes using the DRO on the mill.
The half circle for the crankshaft is done by drilling the hole before making the 22-1/2 degree cut.
The 22-1/2 cut is done on the crosscut fixture and parallel cuts are done against the rip fence. The uncut portion is finished on the band saw.
The finished blank is compared to the drawing
The fender is made by cutting a piece of .080" sheet stock to .400 wide, annealing it and bending it to shape. the solder is Staybrite
