How well - or not so well - would dry transfer lettering hold up outdoors when sealed by a clear matte finish? This would be done on cedar.
tbug
tbug
Dry transfer lettering outdoors
tbug
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Dry transfers are basically a Lacquer process. This is teh reason they are hard to get now, as Lacquers are being phased out. Anyway, they will work as any lacquer paint would and need to be protected as such. Wood could be a problem from the back side as it accepts moisture and humidity.
jonathan
jonathan
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Have you considered vinyl transfers? They are made for outdoors. I have building signs that are now 5 years old, been outside 24/7, and they still look like new.
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I have used dry transfers from woodland scenics routinely. I have left cars outside in the elements and I have noticed that even with sealing they seem to dissappear.
So as long as you don't leave them outside they will work fine...if left outside I don't think so.
You will have to reapply after a time.
My 2 cents
Bubba
So as long as you don't leave them outside they will work fine...if left outside I don't think so.
You will have to reapply after a time.
My 2 cents
Bubba
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Hee hee, I was down at the railyards yesterday and saw cars that looked just like that. I'd say you are just an expert at representing the prototype.
Although I do like the worn look after being outdoors, it will only get worse. Vinyl? Any ways to make it NOT look like new (in time)?
Thanks for the input thus far. What about this idea...
What if the 'sign' was printed on paper, then plastic laminated, then sprayed matte on the front/ exposed side? The edges would be sealed and protected by a frame. The backside adhered to cedar. The matte spray coat to avoid the gloss/ reflective look.
What would a sign painter charge for a 10"w x 2"h lettered sign?
Hmmm, tbug
Thanks for the input thus far. What about this idea...
What if the 'sign' was printed on paper, then plastic laminated, then sprayed matte on the front/ exposed side? The edges would be sealed and protected by a frame. The backside adhered to cedar. The matte spray coat to avoid the gloss/ reflective look.
What would a sign painter charge for a 10"w x 2"h lettered sign?
Hmmm, tbug
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Posted By tbug on 10/15/2008 9:12 PM
... Vinyl? Any ways to make it NOT look like new (in time)? ...
Hmmm, tbug
While vinyl does not lend itself to things like scraping it with a saw blade to distress it, you can weather it with paints, etc. and then seal the weathering with clear coat. All of the vinyl I use has a matte finish. No shiny stuff.
... Vinyl? Any ways to make it NOT look like new (in time)? ...
Hmmm, tbug
While vinyl does not lend itself to things like scraping it with a saw blade to distress it, you can weather it with paints, etc. and then seal the weathering with clear coat. All of the vinyl I use has a matte finish. No shiny stuff.
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If you have a laser printer you can create your sign with Paint or any text editor and print on paper the size you want. Laser print inks last better than ink jet. Or create the file and take it to a copy shop to print it for you... or print it with an ink jet and have the copy shop (or the copier at the drugstore) dupe it with a laser copier.
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Posted By tbug on 10/15/2008 9:12 PM
.............. What about this idea...
What if the 'sign' was printed on paper, then plastic laminated, then sprayed matte on the front/ exposed side? The edges would be sealed and protected by a frame. The backside adhered to cedar. The matte spray coat to avoid the gloss/ reflective look.
UV is the killer.
Dave
.............. What about this idea...
What if the 'sign' was printed on paper, then plastic laminated, then sprayed matte on the front/ exposed side? The edges would be sealed and protected by a frame. The backside adhered to cedar. The matte spray coat to avoid the gloss/ reflective look.
UV is the killer.
Dave
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