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Is there an easy way to mix a 'dipping' solution for getting 600mm tracks clean ?

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Merlin83

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Discussion starter · #1 ·
Hello,

I recently acquired some 600mm (2 feet) sections of LGB track - and they are all in pretty good shape. Just wondering is there an easy mix of water and X that will help to real shine up the tracks ? I plan on using some good quality dish soap (a small amount) and get the water all sudsy. But just wondering if there is some 'secret' additive I can use that will make the tracks really shine ? The tracks are all used indoors too by the way.


Thank You,
Brett
 
#2 ·
Recently I rebuilt part of my layout and pulled up some brass track that had been outside for four years or so. I tried a couple methods to clean it, and none of them worked--I tried laquer thinner, denatured alcohol, and automotive heavy duty degreaser. The rail remained stained. I don't think there's a way to do it with some degree of abrasion. On the other hand, I can't see any evidence that it reduces power pickup.

the single best cleaner I've found is CRC 2-26, which you can find at home depot--cleans electrical corrosion really quickly, and leaves a thin lubricant film. The film is bad if you have any kind of grade, But it cleans very well and very quickly
 
#3 ·
I have used C-L-R. It leaves the rail a light brown color that comes off easily with an LGB pad.
I use a plastic tray used for wallpaper installation and leave the track submerged overnight.
CLR is a cleaner for Calcium-Lime & Rust. It seems to work well.
 
#4 ·
Brett,

The 'dirt' you are referring to is in reality, oxidation, the same as 'rust' on steel. There are chemicals that will remove the oxidation and get you back to a bright shiny rail, but over time it will again oxidize. I do not know off hand specifically what chemicals to use, but do some research, and pay attention to what the affect will be on the plastic tie strips.

Other than the rail head where the current is transferred from the rail to the locomotive, I would not be concerned with the oxidization. It has not negative effect to speak of, and I think it makes the rail look more realistic.

Bob C.
 
#5 ·
"Brasso" takes the tarnish off and it smells like vinegar so I would assume vinegar, as a mild acid, might do what you want if added to your wash water. I think Brasso has not been recommended because it leaves behind a wax/polish that might need to be removed somehow if you need good electrical contact, but I have never used it that way, (nor do I care as I run Live Steam) so I don't know for sure if that is why. I doubt if the vinegar would damage the ties, but it might be best to try it on a small area before you submerse whole sections of track at a time.
 
#6 ·
There are "dip type" metal cleaners, like the stuff to dip your silver in.

I think you would find the cost prohibitive.

Put the track in the dishwasher, that will get it clean.

Then, a light abrasive on the surface can shine it up, but the oxidized rail sides really look more prototypical... I agree

If you wanted to put some CLR on a rag and wipe it on the rail heads, that would probably work, but you want to completely rinse it afterward, nasty acids in it.

Greg
 
#9 ·
Get apad that is used for drywall sanding and give the rails a rub. The top of the track will get a nice shine to it and the rest of the rail will be darker and get a real look to it.It won't take that long. Good luck.
 
#10 ·
A bit of caution, the drywall sandpaper can leave scratches in the rail tops that can collect dirt. Try it on a small spot first and see if it does what you want... some people like the result, some have more problems... it's pretty aggressive stuff.

Regards, Greg
 
#12 ·
I don't know if 600mm track would fit in a dishwasher. I have used an old dishwasher to clean track etc. for years with LGB track and turnouts. I don't know about other brands of track.

My experience has been that it cleans the track but does not do much if anything about the oxidation. I was not too concerned about the rail head oxidation as conductivity was restored with LGB 50040 track cleaning blocks. I was more concerned about the ends of the rails where the rail joiners need a good surface contact. After cleaning I always used LGB 51010 Conductive Paste to keep the joiner connection clean.

I have had some success with Kaboom® Shower, Tub & Tile Cleaner but current bottles I have checked do not recommend for use on brass. I don't know if they changed their chemical formulas.

http://www.kaboomkaboom.com/product...eaner.aspx

I am not recommending it. I am just saying that I have used it when I too was looking for a chemical cleaning solution. When I did use it (several years ago) I found that it worked fairly well as long as I sprayed it on, let it foam, scrubbed briefly with a stiff brush and within a short time used a hose to thoroughly rinse any remaining solution from the rails.

The solution can leave a pinkish tinge to the track but the result was quite satisfactory to me. For whatever reasons if reused outside the brass seemed to tarnish quicker than before "treatment." If left on too long the Kaboom can leave a more predominant pinkish look.

I remember when as a kid we used something (some sort of acid) to clean pennies. The pennies would turn bright and shiny like new but would also re-tarnish more quickly than new pennies would.

I am still convinced that there should be a good chemical cleaning solution available that is better than Kaboom.

Jerry
 
#13 ·
"I remember when as a kid we used something (some sort of acid) to clean pennies."

Jerry;

That may have been muriatic acid. Pretty agressive stuff. I used it way back when I worked on the Dry Gulch Railroad at Hershey Park (mid-1960s). We kept a 3 gallon crock with a mixture of 7 parts water to 1 part muriatic acid beside our tool cabinet at the base of the water tower. When one of the half inch Penberthy injectors would start to sputter, I would remove the insides from the injector, string them onto some copper wire, dip them into the muriatic acid solution for about a minute, then rinse the parts in water and re-install them. Usually after the acid bath, the injector would catch right away. The injectors on the full sized locomotives I ran were not as susceptible to hard water as the half inch injectors.

As to cleaning rail heads, I purchased a German-made cleaning block from Micro-Mark several years ago. It has a much finer abrasive than the Aristo and LGB cleaning blocks. I use it on stubborn spots that the Aristo track cleaning car misses. I wonder whether a light touch with a Dremel wire brush wheel would be sufficient for cleaning the rail ends without scratching them.

Best wishes,
David Meashey
 
#14 ·
If you use the fine grit that they use for dry wall you will not make groves in the track head that is what i have used for five years and have not had a problem. I clean our track about four or five times a year or more if needed. I ldo not try to clean the sides of the track because i like the look it gives to the track, looking more true to life.
 
#15 ·
I use muriatic acid to clean brass just prior to priming it for painting. I've not tried cleaning rails with it, but from what it does to tarnished brass sheet, I'd have expectation that it would do the same thing to rail. It is an acid, so it's not just "cleaning" the brass, it's eating away the very top layer of oxidized molecules (or some such chemical reaction. It's been a while since Chemistry class). It seems to give the paint a bit more "tooth" for whatever reason, similar to how a self-etching primer works. Haven't a clue what it would do to plastic, but (also from Chemistry class) the stuff came in plastic bottles, and we measured it out in plastic pipettes, poured it through plastic funnels, etc. I'd presume it's fairly benign in that regard. You might also try the "pickeling compound" that live steamers use once they've soldered together a boiler to clean it up. I think it's an acetic acid or something.

As for the drywall sanders to just polish the tops of the rails, we use the fine-grit drywall paper on the club railroad at the Colo. RR museum. Seems to keep the electrons flowing smoothly enough without any side-effects.

Later,

K
 
#16 ·
Maybe it's worth mentioning that muriatic acid is a weaker form of hydrochloric acid.

Most acids leave plastic alone.

I agree with Kevin (I think) on using a finer abrasive, I have never seen the "open screen" drywall sandpaper in something I would call fine grit. (It does have the advantage though of not clogging up if the rail is not clean)

I think the popularity of the drywall "screen" stuff is that you can actually use it on dirty track and not have it clog up, so that saves time. The few times I have used it, I was not happy with the scratches, BUT I don't think it's been PROVEN that the scratches cause problems. Since the OP asked for "shine", I would go milder abrasives or chemicals. He also asked to dip it in something, so I did not suggest any of the common polishes that take "elbow grease".

If it was me, and I still had brass track, (and I do like shiny tops), I would have kept my LGB track cleaning loco, that was cool, and no real work on my part.

Greg

p.s. my dishwasher is 30" wide like most people's... 2 foot sections fit inside fine, even on the top rack...
 
#17 ·
I had an agreement with my senior year high school Chemistry teacher - we both agreed that I have no aptitude for chemistry so - he decided to give me a passing grade based on my hard (but unproductive) work if I would agree to avoid anything to do with chemistry in the future. Heck, I could not even make gunpowder and I was really motivated to do it.

Dave was right - it probably was muriatic acid.



Product Code(s) ING-151
PRODUCT: Kaboom Shower Tub & Tile
Kaboom Ingredients

Jerry
 
#19 ·
#20 ·
i dont have a 'solution' for you

i have tried vinegar and CLR-
vinegar will work a bit, but not that well-tried to clean insides of joiners-modest success

i would not use muriatic-its very tooth will attract more oxidation-presuming track power
simply ..the best is to get an LGB track cleaning block

yes it's more work-sorta....
it works -well, cheaply, reliably, controlably, and amzingly thorougly becuase you control and concetrate pressure where its needed
( i do this sometimes instead of using my LGB track cleaning machine)

i recommend this simply because , i think , in the long run, it will actually be quicker and less work-
i clean my track with a bucket and soapy water , sometimes with vinegar or ammonia added
rinse well

good luck
 
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