I'm a newbie and want to purchase track.....stupid question, but can narrow gauge locos run on standard track? Its for outdoor setup.
Thanks - Steve
Thanks - Steve
Standard vs Narrow Guage
logoguy
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It is all in the scale. There are many different scales that will run on our 45mm gauge track.
Standard gauge, 4' 8.5" between the rails, trains 1:29 ( incorrect scale, but made by many manufacturers) and 1:32 (correct, but not many manufacturers),
American Narrow gauge, 3' between the rails 1:20.3,
European Narrow gauge, 1 meter between the rails 1:22.5.
There are other scales out there that run on these tracks, but they aren't as common.
Chuck
It is all in what you like and want to run. I have trains in all the above scales with the exception of 1;32.
Standard gauge, 4' 8.5" between the rails, trains 1:29 ( incorrect scale, but made by many manufacturers) and 1:32 (correct, but not many manufacturers),
American Narrow gauge, 3' between the rails 1:20.3,
European Narrow gauge, 1 meter between the rails 1:22.5.
There are other scales out there that run on these tracks, but they aren't as common.
Chuck
It is all in what you like and want to run. I have trains in all the above scales with the exception of 1;32.
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its ok to run 1:20.3 scale loco on Standard Aristo craft brass track with no problem
As far as has been reported here in the past, you can run any 45mm gauge loco, whatever its scale, on any available 45mm gauge track from any manufacturer.
As far as has been reported here in the past, you can run any 45mm gauge loco, whatever its scale, on any available 45mm gauge track from any manufacturer.
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When you see commercial "G" gauge track advertized as either narrow gauge or standard gauge they are not referring to the space between the rails they are referring to the spacing between the ties 1/20.3 narrow gauge the ties are spaced further apart (as few as 10 ties per foot) then the 1/32 standard gauge counter part (up to 20 ties per foot)....the narrow gauge ties may also be longer 3.8" compared to a standard gauge length of 3.18".......
http://www.llagastrack.com/
http://www.llagastrack.com/
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Although generally whether you are in narrow gauge or standard gauge the larger the radius you use the better most narrow gauge engines will run on 5' radius (10' diameter) curves, I have 5' minimum radius curves and am able to run Bachmann's 2-8-0 "Connie" and 2-8-2 K-27 without problems, and frankly I think there is something picturesque about a narrow gauge train winding around sharp curves...
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I strongly agree with Dean and I will add the Accucraft K-28 to the list. It is always better to go with the largest diameter curves you can, but 10' is fine for the engines already mentioned. I did have some problems with these engines going through turn out on the AristoCraft wide radius switches (5' radius, 10'diameter) but when I switched to the LGB 18000 series switches ( about 16' diameter) I stopped having problems on the switches.
I do not know how the Accucraft K-36 and37s will do on 10' diameter curves.
Chuck
I do not know how the Accucraft K-36 and37s will do on 10' diameter curves.
Chuck
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You should be aware there are two sizes of track. Code 332 by Aristo/USA/LGB is larger/thicker rail. Code 250 by Sunset Valley/Llagas/Micro Engineering/AML is smaller rail(thus cheaper) and looks better with your trains. I feel the larger code makes the trains look toy-like, where the code 250 makes them look more like trains. You should get a strip of each type and sit your train on them and see what you think. I know you can get code 250 track with narrow gauge type ties, not sure of the larger code having that or not. Narrow gauge spacing tends to be a bit farther apart than mainline tie spacing.
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My new layout is based on 1/20.3 narrow gauge. My MINIMUM curves are 7.5 foot radius or 15 foot diameter. I use #6 turnouts minimum and #8's. The two engines I have now are C-19's. One Bachmann. The other Accucraft. I would like to get a K36 or 37, but I'm not sure that my curves would work.
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I would like to get a K36 or 37, but I'm not sure that my curves would work
Should be fine. The prototype had some pretty tight curves too!
Should be fine. The prototype had some pretty tight curves too!
I've been reading this thread and the more I read it the more I get confused. I'm a newbie so I will try and say what I think in the form of a question. In the "real" trains there was a difference between the rails which determined the gauge. However in G-scale modeling the rails are all spaced the same distance apart. Therefore in order to get the track to appear "in scale" the ties are spaced differently with respect to types, US and EU. Given only two choices without having custom ties made how do you select which to use with your layout or does it really matter?
I currently have an LGB Mogul which I think is 1:20xx scale. LGB track and US track are which "scales" respectively, meaning ratio of ties to trains. Has anyone made a chart of proprotions? Most locos appear to be made in 1:29 scale. So which tie is splitting the difference or 1:25 scale? I plan on running all US trains.
I currently have an LGB Mogul which I think is 1:20xx scale. LGB track and US track are which "scales" respectively, meaning ratio of ties to trains. Has anyone made a chart of proprotions? Most locos appear to be made in 1:29 scale. So which tie is splitting the difference or 1:25 scale? I plan on running all US trains.
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Posted By dawktah on 12 Jan 2012 08:44 AM
I've been reading this thread and the more I read it the more I get confused. I'm a newbie so I will try and say what I think in the form of a question. In the "real" trains there was a difference between the rails which determined the gauge. However in G-scale modeling the rails are all spaced the same distance apart. Therefore in order to get the track to appear "in scale" the ties are spaced differently with respect to types, US and EU. Given only two choices without having custom ties made how do you select which to use with your layout or does it really matter?
I currently have an LGB Mogul which I think is 1:20xx scale. LGB track and US track are which "scales" respectively, meaning ratio of ties to trains. Has anyone made a chart of proprotions? Most locos appear to be made in 1:29 scale. So which tie is splitting the difference or 1:25 scale? I plan on running all US trains.
The LGB Mogul is not 1/20.3. I have one. I believe it is somewhere around 1/22 to 1/25. The difference in the tie spacing is strictly for "looks". 1/29 and 1/32 scales are "usually" standard gauge trains running on 45mm gauge track with ties closer together. 1/20.3 narrow gauge trains run on 45mm track with the ties spaced father apart(less ties per foot). But the equipment is larger, rolling stock and engines.
"Scottychaos", MLS member, has a great chart that he has post now and then. This is probably one of the best around that shows the difference visually, between these scales. Maybe he will see your post and post the diagram.
I've been reading this thread and the more I read it the more I get confused. I'm a newbie so I will try and say what I think in the form of a question. In the "real" trains there was a difference between the rails which determined the gauge. However in G-scale modeling the rails are all spaced the same distance apart. Therefore in order to get the track to appear "in scale" the ties are spaced differently with respect to types, US and EU. Given only two choices without having custom ties made how do you select which to use with your layout or does it really matter?
I currently have an LGB Mogul which I think is 1:20xx scale. LGB track and US track are which "scales" respectively, meaning ratio of ties to trains. Has anyone made a chart of proprotions? Most locos appear to be made in 1:29 scale. So which tie is splitting the difference or 1:25 scale? I plan on running all US trains.
The LGB Mogul is not 1/20.3. I have one. I believe it is somewhere around 1/22 to 1/25. The difference in the tie spacing is strictly for "looks". 1/29 and 1/32 scales are "usually" standard gauge trains running on 45mm gauge track with ties closer together. 1/20.3 narrow gauge trains run on 45mm track with the ties spaced father apart(less ties per foot). But the equipment is larger, rolling stock and engines.
"Scottychaos", MLS member, has a great chart that he has post now and then. This is probably one of the best around that shows the difference visually, between these scales. Maybe he will see your post and post the diagram.
Here are some different ties with Code 250 (steel) rail
The bottom row left is suitable for 1 /29th standard gauge, middle for European Meter Gauge, right for US 3 feet protos.
All are available at Llagas Creek.
Top row sleepers are offered by Heyn Modellbau / Germany. wood, conrete, steel, 1 : 22,5, more or less.
Have Fun
Fritz / Juergen
The bottom row left is suitable for 1 /29th standard gauge, middle for European Meter Gauge, right for US 3 feet protos.
All are available at Llagas Creek.
Top row sleepers are offered by Heyn Modellbau / Germany. wood, conrete, steel, 1 : 22,5, more or less.
Have Fun
Fritz / Juergen
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Posted By dawktah on 12 Jan 2012 08:44 AM
I've been reading this thread and the more I read it the more I get confused. I'm a newbie so I will try and say what I think in the form of a question. In the "real" trains there was a difference between the rails which determined the gauge. However in G-scale modeling the rails are all spaced the same distance apart. Therefore in order to get the track to appear "in scale" the ties are spaced differently with respect to types, US and EU. Given only two choices without having custom ties made how do you select which to use with your layout or does it really matter?Â
Â
I currently have an LGB Mogul which I think is 1:20xx scale. LGB track and US track are which "scales" respectively, meaning ratio of ties to trains. Has anyone made a chart of proprotions? Most locos appear to be made in 1:29 scale. So which tie is splitting the difference or 1:25 scale? I plan on running all US trains.
I've been reading this thread and the more I read it the more I get confused. I'm a newbie so I will try and say what I think in the form of a question. In the "real" trains there was a difference between the rails which determined the gauge. However in G-scale modeling the rails are all spaced the same distance apart. Therefore in order to get the track to appear "in scale" the ties are spaced differently with respect to types, US and EU. Given only two choices without having custom ties made how do you select which to use with your layout or does it really matter?Â
Â
I currently have an LGB Mogul which I think is 1:20xx scale. LGB track and US track are which "scales" respectively, meaning ratio of ties to trains. Has anyone made a chart of proprotions? Most locos appear to be made in 1:29 scale. So which tie is splitting the difference or 1:25 scale? I plan on running all US trains.
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Most LGB is 1/22.5 and they did use a rubber band type ruler for measurements. So this engine looks OK with 1/24 and 1/20.3 to me. Not bad even with 1/29.
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hmm, didnt realize that my post didnt take......
I was saying that the confusion I had was the gauge also. We all use 45mm rail. In other words the sapce between the rail does not change when it comes to track. The size and space of the ties does change based on the scale. The size of the equipment also changes. One of the reasons true scale narrow gauge is 1:20.3 is because its being adapted to the 45mm track. The point 3 is unusual and specific for a scale, but because of the gauge of the track you have to have the point 3.
To the OP, it can be confusing at first. My advice is look at what equipment you most want to run and buy track based on that. I wanted narrow gauge so I bought track for narrow gauge. However, the nice thing is, if I want to buy another scale, such as a Big Boy or something I can and still run it on my track.
Keep in mind the minimum radius on your track like others have said. The larger the scale the more the radius makes a difference. Those big locos get cranky when they got to go around tight radius curves. Something to think about, Bachmann's 1:20.3 scale equipment (not the Big Hauler stuff) has a minimum radius of 4'. I think most other manufacture's equipment will also go around that radius too. But, try to get your radius as big as possible.
I was saying that the confusion I had was the gauge also. We all use 45mm rail. In other words the sapce between the rail does not change when it comes to track. The size and space of the ties does change based on the scale. The size of the equipment also changes. One of the reasons true scale narrow gauge is 1:20.3 is because its being adapted to the 45mm track. The point 3 is unusual and specific for a scale, but because of the gauge of the track you have to have the point 3.
To the OP, it can be confusing at first. My advice is look at what equipment you most want to run and buy track based on that. I wanted narrow gauge so I bought track for narrow gauge. However, the nice thing is, if I want to buy another scale, such as a Big Boy or something I can and still run it on my track.
Keep in mind the minimum radius on your track like others have said. The larger the scale the more the radius makes a difference. Those big locos get cranky when they got to go around tight radius curves. Something to think about, Bachmann's 1:20.3 scale equipment (not the Big Hauler stuff) has a minimum radius of 4'. I think most other manufacture's equipment will also go around that radius too. But, try to get your radius as big as possible.
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I have both "wide tie" track and "narrow tie" track intermixed on my layout. After it's ballasted, I quickly forget about any differences in tie spacing or width. Unless you're very picky about "faithfulness to prototype" (whatever that means), I suggest the best track is whichever offers the most attractive cost to you, delivered. Don't forget the shipping charges.
Just my opinion, of course. Not all would agree.
FWIW, I currently favor the AML code 332 brass flex track; excellent quality and a bit more affordable than some other brands. Again, that's just what works for me.
Steve
Just my opinion, of course. Not all would agree.
FWIW, I currently favor the AML code 332 brass flex track; excellent quality and a bit more affordable than some other brands. Again, that's just what works for me.
Steve
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