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SP AM-2 Cab Forward Build

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Discussion starter · #81 ·
The hand rails are bent to shape and the support legs are soldered on. They are then set in place and a drop of CA is applied at each attachment hole to set them. The next day the part of the rails that protruded into the shell is covered in JB Weld to permanently secure them.
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The shell is then painted
IN THE MIDDLE OF THE POST, I GOT A COOKIES REQUIRED SIGN BUT NO PLACE TO ACCEPT THEM SO I GUESS I AM FINISHED WITH THIS SITE
 
#82 ·
bill, you might have to adjust any "blockers" in your browser.

I would be honored to help you over the phone, have been doing computers since '75

I'm in the same timezone as you... we can also exchange emails...

greg
 
Discussion starter · #85 ·
hi Greg et al
I guess the problem I had was a one time thing as I was just able to post this
Here is the upper shell painted.
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The nest step is to make the inner storage assembly which is a brass box. This box will hold the fuel tank, water bath and hand pump. It needs to be this way as if I had this equipment inside the soldered tender, I could never service the equipment through the small access hole.
Here is a trick I use to solder joints. A snippet of 1/32" staybrite is bent at the top and held with tweezers
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And then hooked at the joint. I then heat from the outside till the solder melts and runs down the joint
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I will be using a cylindrical fuel tank so I make the lower brackets from brass blocks. Here I am cutting out the shape on my 1/8" band saw. I have to follow the scribed lines just on the outside and finish up on the spindle sander.
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Now the brackets are both set on a section of pipe to ensure they are equal
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they are then set in the box, checked for positioning and soldered in place. The rectangular sketch to the left is where the access hole is.
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fuel tank construction is fairly simple. The round ends are scribed out with a compass. The center hole is then drilled out for the lathe arbor. The rough shape is cut out about .030" oversize on the bans saw (shown on the right) and then finished on the lathe, The center hole is used for a stay.
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Here is the tank and box
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The tender shell is then placed over the box and checked for position. the hole on the left is for the filler valve and the one on the right id for the regulator valve. The space to the left will be for the hand pump
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.
 
#86 ·
Thanks for continuing to post Bill, I learned something else yet again from the above, that is bending a tip on a rod of solder to hold it in a vertical position and heating from the outside until it runs. Much easier with the tender sitting square and sides upright rather than wrangling a loose bulky tender and trying solder at the same time. So simple yet I didn't think of that.
 
Discussion starter · #87 ·
Thanks for responding
It helps to know my posts are appreciated
The design and placement of the hand pump is critical because of the small access opening
Rather than spend a lot of time doing a CAD drawing, I made a sketch to the scale measurements, This only took a couple of minutes but it guides me through the build.
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I start with the cylinder. A length of 3/8 hex is drilled out to just under 5/16" and then cleaned up with a 5/16" reamer. In the mill I cut 1/8" grooves on the top and bottom.
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4/16" SS rod is drilled out and milled and ground to shape on the pivot end. An o=ring groove is cut on the lathe.
The subassembly is checked against the sketch.
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Here is the finished pump
The two check valves are on the left the outlet on the top and the inlet on the lower left
The stainless handle fits in the brass tube soldered on to the base
Note that the base has four holes where it is attaches to a 1/8" thick plate which is soldered to the bottom of the box
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Here is the view of the opening in the walking deck
The gas filler valve is on the left in the middle is the pump lever and in between them is the axle pump bypass return. to the right id the pump handle.
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The decal is installed and clear coated
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Discussion starter · #88 ·
The cab Forward is now ready for testing but I need to make the carrying case first.
One of the challenges of the cab forward design is routing all of the tender lines through what should be the front of the engine.
I have four 1/8" tubes routed between the pilot (trailing) wheels. This allows no room for the tender connection.
To get around this I needed to run the connector through the buffer. A stainless shoulder screw is made and screwed into the same crossmember that holds the four tubes

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I drill three holes in the strap and check the clearance on a test track that has a 9' radius curve with the shortest hole
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And now the loco is set aside on the back bench and will be covered while I make the case.
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#89 ·
Wow, Bill another great build with the detailed : How to do it description. What a fantastic contribution you make to the hobby! And it really is a big help to us who are just getting at it, that ultimate goal: building a live steam locomotive. We get a lotof encouragement from your wonderful builds. And such historic locos too.
 
Discussion starter · #90 ·
Thank you for your kind words Simon

du-bousquetaire said:
Wow, Bill another great build with the detailed : How to do it description. What a fantastic contribution you make to the hobby! And it really is a big help to us who are just getting at it, that ultimate goal: building a live steam locomotive. We get a lotof encouragement from your wonderful builds. And such historic locos too.
Click to expand...
 
#91 ·
bille1906 said:
Thank you for your kind words Simon
Click to expand...
Bill, what an artistic and engineering achievement! Bravo! I own a Row & Co SP Cab Forward which I was told is the gold standard. But everyone claims that title. Your effort is platinum. Click here to see one. It’s not $7000 anymore. It’s double.

1:32 Scale Gauge 1 Brass - Row & Co. SP Southern Pacific 4-8-8-2 AC-12 Cab Forward #4294

Buy 1:32 Scale Gauge 1 Brass - Row & Co. SP Southern Pacific 4-8-8-2 AC-12 Cab Forward #4294
www.brasstrains.com
 
Discussion starter · #92 ·
Thanks
I was able to add a couple of things
The pressurized oil section in the tender has a distinctive man hole cover. The hinged lid is held in place with a harp which is tightened with the T handle. My friend Dennis volunteered to make the two key parts on the lathe and CNC mill
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I received the etched builder plates and number plates from GB and glued them on with JB Weld.
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And finally a carrying case is made. I am doing some maintenance on the test track and will post a video after testing.
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#94 ·
Magnificent Bill, looks like a full head of steam constantly feeding those four hungry cylinders, well done on this build. As always I enjoyed your posting of progress on your loco builds with all the little tips and tricks I learn along the way.
Much appreciated and obviously I am not the only one because the "hits" on your build posts have by far the biggest number of anything on MLS and any other forum I have seen.
Russell
 
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