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Modelmaster45

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Discussion starter · #1 ·
Hi one & all, I've been busy in the workshop making a carry box & putting RC plus a working headlamp on my new Accucraft C-18. With the carry box, it allows me to keep the loco & tender permanently connected. When you want to run it, place the box on the track. The box comes with a ramp which fastens to the front which allows the loco to easily roll out of the box & engage with the track. When finished running, do the reverse, roll the loco up the ramp into the box. It makes handling so much easier when you don't have to carry the tender & loco separately & have to connect up & then disconnect. (see photos).
Recently, I asked has anyone put RC control on their C-18. Well, I worked out an easy method to just put RC on the regulator. I already had a transmitter for another loco, so I bought another receiver to match it. I had a Micro Hitec Servo with metal gears which was just right. For power, I used a two thirds size 6 volt rechargeable battery. Both the receiver & battery easily fitted side by side in the cab, with the servo screwed to the cross beam of the roof. One extra thing I added, was a Servo Travel Tuner which allows you to increase the travel on your servo. I found my servo wasn't giving me enough travel as I need more for pulling heavy loads. I didn't add a switch for the battery, it's easy to just plug the lead into the receiver next to it.
The other thing I added which I like on my locos, is a working headlamp. It was very easy to do, had to take the lamp off the loco, drill a whole big enough for a LED, connect wiring to it, cover it with heat shrink, then secure it to the handrail which runs along the boiler & into the cab connected to a button 3 volt battery with a switch on it.
To help explain the above, I've included photos.
John.
 
Well, I worked out an easy method to just put RC on the regulator.
Looks great! But do you need to attend to the blower manually when you bring the engine to a stop? The C-18 is the first engine I've had with a blower, and I've discovered that if I stop the engine for more than 30 seconds (maybe a slight exaggeration?) I need to turn the blower on or I'll loose the fire.
 
Discussion starter · #5 ·
Looks great! But do you need to attend to the blower manually when you bring the engine to a stop? The C-18 is the first engine I've had with a blower, and I've discovered that if I stop the engine for more than 30 seconds (maybe a slight exaggeration?) I need to turn the blower on or I'll loose the fire.
Yes Gary you're right, you do need the blower on when standing stationary which I do. Sometimes, I leave the blower slightly cracked during a run which helps keep a good fire. I'm the same as you, this too is my first loco with a blower & takes awhile on how best to run it & get the best out of it, so at the moment, I have my L plates on. Saying that, I'm so thankful to Russell who is very experienced with these locos & has been a big help to me as I learn the art of driving these wonderful locos. John.
 
On my c-18 I have found best to leave a small crack to the blower so that there is some draft of it stalls.
My burner is modified to Bill's specifications so it will not extinguish if there is no draft, but the fire won't stay where it is supposed to be.
A friend is working on further refining and sealing the fire box to eliminate the need for the blower like a Bill Allen ceramic loco.

I have the parts to put RC in mine with a servo for the blower. I plan to fit wicks and a meths tank and be able to switch fuels depending on the weather. Of the run.

Tyler
 
Discussion starter · #8 ·
On my c-18 I have found best to leave a small crack to the blower so that there is some draft of it stalls.
My burner is modified to Bill's specifications so it will not extinguish if there is no draft, but the fire won't stay where it is supposed to be.
A friend is working on further refining and sealing the fire box to eliminate the need for the blower like a Bill Allen ceramic loco.

I have the parts to put RC in mine with a servo for the blower. I plan to fit wicks and a meths tank and be able to switch fuels depending on the weather. Of the run.

Tyler
Sounds interesting having meths as well, what sort of weather would you choose to run it on that? Where I live here in Australia, we don't have the weather issues you have, only time for us is mainly in the summer where it gets too hot to run, other times of the year, pretty good. I'm happy with the way my loco is performing, as I've said, I'm still learning to have gas & water levels just right to get long runs, but I'm having so much fun doing it. Also, I'm about to start to make a livestock & box car to add to my other scratch built rolling stock. John.
 
Sounds interesting having meths as well, what sort of weather would you choose to run it on that? Where I live here in Australia, we don't have the weather issues you have, only time for us is mainly in the summer where it gets too hot to run, other times of the year, pretty good. I'm happy with the way my loco is performing, as I've said, I'm still learning to have gas & water levels just right to get long runs, but I'm having so much fun doing it. Also, I'm about to start to make a livestock & box car to add to my other scratch built rolling stock. John.
I live in central Wisconsin USA and experience the range of +100 to -15 degrees F between winter to summer. Most people just hibernate or migrate to play with their trains. My agriculture based career means I only have steam time in the winter. Butane won't gas below 32F so I'm interested in putting alcohol in.

Tyler
 
FWIW, speaking of steaming in cold weather, the LGB/ASter loco Frank S is notorious for poor firing in cool weather. So my buddy Eric S plumbed in a PM Research valve from the boiler to a copper tube in the water bath around the gas tank. The warming provided by one drip a second coming out as condensate allows running in sub freezing weather. My best is 27F.


Jerry
 
FWIW, speaking of steaming in cold weather, the LGB/ASter loco Frank S is notorious for poor firing in cool weather. So my buddy Eric S plumbed in a PM Research valve from the boiler to a copper tube in the water bath around the gas tank. The warming provided by one drip a second coming out as condensate allows running in sub freezing weather. My best is 27F.


Jerry
A friend had one on one of his engines. It wasn't a coil though. It was just a steam leak in the water bath.
 
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