G Scale Model Train Forum banner
Cancel
Create thread New Forums

how do you convert a Piko 0-6-0ST locomotive to Battery Power

Jump to Latest
1 - 20 of 22 Posts
#2 ·
Start by making a plan. These questions should help you start formulating your plan.
What RC system do you want to go with (IE. RailPro, Revolution, etc)?
Do you want it installed directly in the locomotive, or a dedicated "rc/battery" car? There are pros and cons to each. There won't be enough room in the 0-6-0 for RC electronics and batteries without some serious modification affecting the cosmetics. Battery car can be used with different locomotives. Each locomotive would only have to be set up to tie into it. Battery car would give room for higher capacity batteries too.
Either way, the motor has to be isolated from track power pickup. Is that easily achievable with this locomotive? (With this particular one, it is fairly easy, but a good question to ask before approaching the conversion on any locomotive).
Do you want it switchable to run off either track power or battery? Can be done, but makes the install a little bit more complex.
Will you be adding a speaker for sound at the same time?
Will you be adding any additional lighting?
Where will you place the charging port for the batteries (dependent on your answer to where you will be installing the rc/batteries)?
Where will you be installing the "link" or "programming" switch?

There are more questions but this is a good start.
 
#5 ·
**** Habilis said:
Here is a blog for a Piko DB BR80 tank conversion, it might give you an idea of what's involved once you consider the items mentioned by Jordan.
Click to expand...
The blog provies nice step-by-step instructions on disassembly of loco and installation of battery control but says nothing about an aspect of battery power which I'm most interested in for a small loco with limited space for batteries and that is the typical run time.
 
#6 ·
Yeah, but it helps the OP who does not have that question.

Seriously, if you have your own question that is off topic, why not leave the newbie alone and start your own thread? We old farts need to help newcomers, not throw them curve balls!

Jordan, great that you can find and example, and that one used an off the shelf pack, there's still more room in the boiler for more cells or electronics.

So, I would settle on the control system first, and once you have assembled the electronics, then work on where to put stuff and what room and shape is available for batteries.

You are on the path.

Greg
 
#9 ·
krs:

You might review the Getting started with battery power and radio control section on the Pekforton site. It does have a method to approximate the run time. It discusses some of the issues regarding amp hours, runtime and amps that a motor draws. I would suspect that this would give you a good idea of what you could expect. I would also guess, with a bit of searching, you should be able to find the information that you are seeking.
 
Discussion starter · #10 ·
jordanhd87 said:
or
Click to expand...
jordanhd87 said:
Start by making a plan. These questions should help you start formulating your plan.
What RC system do you want to go with (IE. RailPro, Revolution, etc)?
Do you want it installed directly in the locomotive, or a dedicated "rc/battery" car? There are pros and cons to each. There won't be enough room in the 0-6-0 for RC electronics and batteries without some serious modification affecting the cosmetics. Battery car can be used with different locomotives. Each locomotive would only have to be set up to tie into it. Battery car would give room for higher capacity batteries too.
Either way, the motor has to be isolated from track power pickup. Is that easily achievable with this locomotive? (With this particular one, it is fairly easy, but a good question to ask before approaching the conversion on any locomotive).
Do you want it switchable to run off either track power or battery? Can be done, but makes the install a little bit more complex.
Will you be adding a speaker for sound at the same time?
Will you be adding any additional lighting?
Where will you place the charging port for the batteries (dependent on your answer to where you will be installing the rc/batteries)?
Where will you be installing the "link" or "programming" switch?

There are more questions but this is a good start.
Click to expand...
alright i will be repaintig the loco adding sound removing cab detail filling the cab with 16 batterys and i think i will problebly use railpro i might want it switchible it can't have a battery (but some other locos can
 
#12 ·
HH: that article was written 2013 and it shows. I found 5 things in error/misleading right away.

It might have reflected the "common wisdom" 9 years ago, but a lot of that was flawed then, and many people were probably overly cautious, but in the almost 10 intervening years things have clarified with experience and better knowledge.

Greg
 
Discussion starter · #13 ·
Greg Elmassian said:
HH: that article was written 2013 and it shows. I found 5 things in error/misleading right away.

It might have reflected the "common wisdom" 9 years ago, but a lot of that was flawed then, and many people were probably overly cautious, but in the almost 10 intervening years things have clarified with experience and better knowledge.

Greg
Click to expand...
well it brought up another question what is the lowest voltage piko motors work at? 16 volts or 20
 
Discussion starter · #17 ·
Greg Elmassian said:
They are not high draw, figure 2 amps max unless you are overloading the loco... you can always abuse almost any loco and make it draw more.

Greg
Click to expand...
ok then i can use bluerail i was thinking bluerail might work better then railpro still not sure about which one though
 
#18 ·
So, one guy in our club here in San Diego is associated with Bluerail (it's made here).

I can hook you up with him for emails if you want.

Bluerail is less expensive, and you can use your phone... RailPro wants you to buy their controller, and has more features and is more "evolved".... So, it depends on the features you want and cost, but both can drive DCC decoders so that kind of evens out the features between them.

Greg
 
Discussion starter · #19 ·
Greg Elmassian said:
So, one guy in our club here in San Diego is associated with Bluerail (it's made here).

I can hook you up with him for emails if you want.

Bluerail is less expensive, and you can use your phone... RailPro wants you to buy their controller, and has more features and is more "evolved".... So, it depends on the features you want and cost, but both can drive DCC decoders so that kind of evens out the features between them.

Greg
Click to expand...
ah ok so it looks like bluerail will be better suited for my needs
 
1 - 20 of 22 Posts
About this Discussion
21 Replies
8 Participants
Last post:
Daveyj199
G Scale Model Train Forum
posts
460K
members
32K
Since
2007
A forum community dedicated to G scale model train owners and enthusiasts. Come join the discussion about collections, displays, models, styles, scales, reviews, accessories, classifieds, and more!
Full Forum Listing
Explore Our Forums
Live Steam General G Scale Discussions Beginner's Forum Model Making Track, Trestles, Bridges and Roadbed