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Piko 0-6-0 loco quit working

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dlclarkii

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Discussion starter · #1 · (Edited)
I bought a 0-6-0 NYC by Piko. Ran with no problems on my outdoor layout. Now it will not run at all? Same results on my indoor layout. Cannot get it to run or turn on. Nada.

Just got it two weeks ago on Ebay brand new. Ran fine last Saturday until it rained. Rain will cause all of my locos to slow or creep, I guess the water effects the voltage. So I stopped the loco once it started to crawl. After the rain stopped, the loco would not run. Tried again the next day, won't turn on. I tried it on my indoor layout and nothing either.

The loco is DCC. I don't have DCC. Shouldn't be a problem. Fount it weird it would only smoke at low throttle like 1/2. At 3/4 throttle it wouldn't smoke.

DidI waste $300 on a Piko loco. I have all LGBs and never had any problems.

What should I do, where can I have it serviced? Won't run on both of my layouts.

I don't know what to do :(

 

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#2 ·
Don't run a loco with electronics in the rain? :)

That would be my advice. Decoder equipped locos have microprocessors. They do not take kindly to moisture.


What is the make and model of your power supply? I suspect from watching your video and also stating that no smoke at higher throttle settings, you have a marginal system.



Greg
 
#3 ·
Greg is absolutely right. I own the Santa Fe version of that exact same loco, and I had the exact same performance issues as you did before your loco conked out.
A conversation with Jonathan soon revealed that my problem was definitely related to an inadequate (1amp) Lionel power supply. I then upgraded to a 3 amp Bridgewerks power supply. Problem solved.
And that's what you need to do to get your Piko locomotive running right. That's ,of course,assuming that running it in the rain hasn't ruined it.
It looks to me that the seller you bought it from is not an authorized retailer of Piko products. In that case, you will have to call Piko, explain the situation, and see what options that they offer you.

If this train really was brand new, and still factory sealed, there is an owners manual, and exploded parts diagram, inside a plastic envelope that's in the box.
All the information that you need to contact Piko America is included in the envelope.

I suggest that you call them on Monday morning.

Ask for either Jonathan ,or Dan. I'm sure that they will be glad to provide you with what ever assistance with your train that they can.
You can also find their contact information at pikoamerica.com.

Good luck!
Andrew
 
Discussion starter · #4 · (Edited)
TY for the replies. I'm a newbie that just started this year for my 2 year old daughter to enjoy.

It's not my transformers, I have a Tech3 2500 for outside and a 9500 for an inside. The Pike loco will not run on either layout. Since the video was taken, I added a second power feed so there's two power feeds on opposite ends which helped with the loco slowing down at the opposite end. I have a power tap on each side of the switches. Notice I have a reverse loop in the middle to switch directions of the train. If I knew how much trouble switches would be I wouldn't installed them.

I run my LGBs in the rain all the time and never had a problem. Even in summer downpours. Run the Piko once in a sprinkle and it's a DOA.

I'll call Piko on Monday. I can't believe this brand new loco would stop working after a few hours of run time. Ran great until last Saturday when we had a shower in SE PA. I was outside installing Christmas lights when it rained and when I stopped hearing the whistle I noticed the train slowed to a crawl so I shut it off. Started it up later and now it won't run at all.

Posted a pic of the LGB loco I was using and now the using again. I wanted a larger loco so I could pull more cars. Bought it with a LGB starter kit I got for $226 on Ebay. The LGB cars are made in Germany but the loco is made in China. So it's not the best but atleast it still runs. Been running this LGB all year with no problems other than it can't pull a lot of cars. The LGB CO and Southern I use on my indoor layout and I pull 15 Bachmann Big Hauler cars hence why I have a 3A 9500 transformer.

https://forums.mylargescale.com/29-beginner-s-forum/89088-i-can-share-videos-now.html#post1144502
 

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Discussion starter · #5 ·
The sound decoder is the problem.

I have the schematics from the O&M on the loco. I get incoming track voltage on S1 and S2 to the decoder.

I can make the motor running by supplying track voltage to M1 and M2 which are the motor leads.

I guess I'll have to put a jumper in between S1 and M1 & S2 and M2 or spend $210 on a new decoder. The loco only cost me $225. :rolleyes:

Wish I had a DCC to see if it would turn on the loco.
 
#6 · (Edited)
Your power supplies are indeed somewhat marginal. If you run slowly, you will be able to live with them, but they have low current at higher G voltages. Your decoder-equipped loco can draw almost twice what your LGB does.

Also, on such a small loop, if you need a second jumper, your track connections are poor. What type of track are you using, and did you put "conductive" grease in the joiners before assembling? I'd recommend rail clamps.

Yes, you continue to talk about running your LGB in the rain, they do not have microprocessors in them... seriously do you leave your laptop running in the rain?

When you put a jumper between the track and motor connections on a decoder and then apply track power you normally instantly destroy the decoder. That is the #1 no no in DCC decoders


I'm giving you this advice to be helpful, and to avoid further frustration on your part.



Greg
 
#7 ·
In your first post it was a $300 loco and now it's only $225?
I'm confused.:rolleyes:
 
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Discussion starter · #9 ·
Greg Elmassian said:
Your power supplies are indeed somewhat marginal. If you run slowly, you will be able to live with them, but they have low current at higher G voltages. Your decoder-equipped loco can draw almost twice what your LGB does.

Also, on such a small loop, if you need a second jumper, your track connections are poor. What type of track are you using, and did you put "conductive" grease in the joiners before assembling? I'd recommend rail clamps.

Yes, you continue to talk about running your LGB in the rain, they do not have microprocessors in them... seriously do you leave your laptop running in the rain?

When you put a jumper between the track and motor connections on a decoder and then apply track power you normally instantly destroy the decoder. That is the #1 no no in DCC decoders


I'm giving you this advice to be helpful, and to avoid further frustration on your part.



Greg
Click to expand...
What do you recommend? I thought I had the right transformers? I thought Tech 3 we're good enough for G scale, especially the 9500?

I'm trying to put a G scale train together on a budget for my daughter to enjoy.

I don't use joiners because they're expensive, maybe later. I will have to put conductive grease on the joints. Like I said I'm a newbie at this :)

I won't put jumpers in, but it's a last effort if everything else fails. I put track voltage to the male pins on the loco to see if the motor would turn and it does.

I will contact Piko, thank you for the advise.
 
#10 · (Edited)
Hi. Watch this video of my Piko 0-6-0 Santa Fe running on a 1 amp power supply and note how poorly the sound and steam functions operate with an inadequate power supply:
Then watch this video of my Piko 0-6-0 Camelback locomotive running on my newer Bridgewerks Mini mag 3-s 3 amp power supply,which is a somewhat older model,but is more than capable for the job of powering my simple layouts.

Please note that both of these 0-6-0 Piko locomotives use the exact same sound/DCC system ,and thusly have basically the exact same power requirements in order to operate properly.
Andrew
 
#11 ·
I more suspect the rain got into the board for the DCC and even though he doesn't use that function, the power still flows thru it as its a dual mode decoder, just as in HO or N scale. Electrioncs and rain do NOT mix, period. Even the early LGB sound engines had an advisory in the manual to not run that model in the rain. LGB engines(other that ones with sound) were weather proof. My Stainz took a few dives into the pond and was totaly underwater, took it out, shook off the water and away it went. This is not the case for many other well known brands. They might be more UV proof, but not running in a downpour proof like LGB was(I assume they still are to some extant but I am speaking of Lehmann era LGB). Can it be saved, most likely. It will need to be rewired and you will loose the smoke and may need to change what lights up the headlight. Locally we have a shop down near Indianapolis that is an expert in G scale repairing. Is there a shop in your area that can work on the model if you are unable to? If you do not, I know models get shipped to this shop for repair and chances are they can get all the bad parts replaced and it will be like new again. That shop is Zionsville Train Depot. He has a page on FB or a google search will yield you the contact info. Good luck Mike
 
#12 ·
On your LGB, the 2-4-0 chinese built engine is not for pulling lots of cars, the gears in it will destroy themselves. They were ment just put pull the cars they came with in the set and maybe one or two more and thats it. The C&S Mogul is a higher end locomotive and is one of the golden standard LGB engines made for years. They pull well, but can have idler gear issues if used to pull really heavy loads. This is a common issue and parts are cheap to replace those gears when they wear out. If you want a horse of an engine to pull long trains. Save up for one of the LGB White Pass 2055 diesels. Dual motors, snow plow on the one end, they are a beast. Can be found in non sound and sound versions. The original blue/white with no sound is the most affordable of all of them. For a cheap LGB engine, find one of the Austrian style Stainz locos(green/black/red colors), Those are nearly bulletproof.
 
#13 ·
dlclarkii said:
What do you recommend? I thought I had the right transformers? I thought Tech 3 we're good enough for G scale, especially the 9500?

I'm trying to put a G scale train together on a budget for my daughter to enjoy.
Click to expand...
The Tech 3 is "good enough" for G Scale, but with limits. It's only rated at 30 VA. The Piko engine with DCC, sound and smoke is going to overwhelm it. I haven't had much luck with the MRC controllers, other than the Power G.


On a strict budget you can find several controllers for under $200 (USA Trains) that'll handle the current, but unless you get lucky with something pre-owned that is about as low end as you can go and be able to run something like your Piko engine.
 
#14 ·
Piko G are great for price point. Where can you get today DCC and sound engine for $300?

However I have found the LGB units have better quality gears/motors, smoke units, and possibly wheel plating.
I have low mileage Piko 0-6-0 with dead smoke unit and potential gear issue under 1st maintenance requirement.
Also the 0-6-0 stutters and stops on less than clean brass track where LGB Moguls and others do not.
 
#15 ·
OK, you need to do a lot of reading. And, being the holiday season, I'm not long on free time.


please read some of the stuff on my site, here is one about transformers:
https://elmassian.com/index.php/lar...index.php/large-scale-train-main-page/dcc-battery-rc-electronics/dc-power-packs


Basically, unless you have small locos and only one possibly 2 on the track, MRC are junk. I used them many years in smaller scales, but G scale is beyond what they sell except for the Power G.


You need to see if Piko will warrant your decoder.... I might suggest you accidentally leave out the "running in the rain part" ....



You should clean the ends of the rail and the joiners when you pull apart to add grease.


Greg
 
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dlclarkii
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