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Discussion starter · #42 ·
Jack, thank you for sharing. I did some testing mixing brands R & K just to see the results. The R brand clear coat attacked the K brand paint in places even lightly applied. Valspar didn't attack either. Since I use R brand can only comment on past experience with that product, had one can that only had propellent and a couple of cans that had mostly solvent and very little pigment, In this case I wish the trash pick up wasn't so prompt so I could retrieve the can I used on the hull. I did give it a clear coat, out of fear I used the Valspar.
 

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Discussion starter · #44 ·
Jack, you are absolutely right. If I were the least bit good at weathering I'd add some rust or possibly some 'Red Lead' primer in patches, but I know it would look fake and I'd ruin it. The barge proves my point. LiG
 
Discussion starter · #45 · (Edited)
Procedure states "the coaming is designed to keep the water out of the hull". Procedure didn't show one under the fantail/drying deck, which would have as it lifts out for access to the rudder gear, so I made one from a piece of scrap. The scuppers are in anticipation of water being trapped on deck. liG
 

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Discussion starter · #46 ·
Made some progress on the pilot house. I had to do the windows twice as the material supplied was too floppy for me to control. Local hobby shop had some thicker material that I found easier to work with. Used markers and bulbs from Harbor, I wanted them to be lit. Still need to finish painting the railings. Painted the stanchions before installing. The procedure calls for the railings to be black, my personal preference is white. LiG
 

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Discussion starter · #47 ·
Made a jig/holding frame to assemble the ladder rungs to the sides. Still deciding if I want to use it with the wooden steps provided or make a fully brass ladder. The jig will make that so much easier. LiG
 

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Looks great, I love the care you take with each phase of the build.
 
Discussion starter · #52 ·
John, for me the pleasure is the build. Someone more experienced than I once told me "take your time and enjoy the project, after it's built it will be just another toy".
David, Thank You. The instructions called it a monitor. I guess it can be used to help with fires. I have also seen pics where it is used in ceremonies and celebrations. LiG.
 
Discussion starter · #55 ·
The basic cabin, used Bondo to fill in the forward bulkhead, side seams and rear structures. Used the heat gun to shape bulkhead, had to fill a couple small areas that collapsed. Made the roof removable for ease of painting and adding small details like the hand rails. Making a bending jig to form the bulkhead that attaches to the front of the cabin roof, will use the heat gun to shape that also.
 

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Discussion starter · #56 ·
The hatches were fun. The cabin is shaped to fit the deck and there is an up swing from center to forward. The forward hatches are not perpendicular to the deck but aligned parallel to the aft buikhead. If installed using the deck as the guide they would be tilted aft. Once I realized the geometry involved I adhered the structure to a piece of cardboard with fwd elevated as on deck and marked the locations. Can now also see the hinges. I think the hatches were set up this way because ??? we have a tendency to walk upright even if the deck/floor is on an angle and if those hatches were 90' from the deck could possibly cause head injuries. Others thoughts requested.
 

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Discussion starter · #57 ·
Bringing together several small projects brought the tug into reality. Procedure showed aft cabin ladder ending even with the cabin roof and had no hand holds or safety rails so getting from the ladder to the roof meant crawling. Made another simple jig and made the ladder stringers longer so the crew can stay upright from the tup rung to the roof securely. Also added short railings on each side. I especially liked the look and fit of the life boat and cover, I did drift from the suggested colors.
 

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