What is the general feeling on center to center spacing which would allow trains to pass each other on straight-aways? I had posted a thought about using 8 inch wide aluminum decking for roadbed on an elevated layout. Somehow, I managed to screw it up. So here's a photo of what I am thinking about.
Track spacing for Trains to Pass each other
dslinick
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What is the general feeling on center to center spacing which would allow trains to pass each other on straight-aways? I had posted a thought about using 8 inch wide aluminum decking for roadbed on an elevated layout. Somehow, I managed to screw it up. So here's a photo of what I am thinking about.
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Well, what scale are the trains going to be?
My railway is designed for 1/32 scale, so I have used 5 ½" centres on a 12" wide base where there is double track.
When a narrow gauge loco is being run we are careful not to have any running on both tracks at the same time.
Regards,
David Leech, Delta, Canada
My railway is designed for 1/32 scale, so I have used 5 ½" centres on a 12" wide base where there is double track.
When a narrow gauge loco is being run we are careful not to have any running on both tracks at the same time.
Regards,
David Leech, Delta, Canada
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And if you have 1/20.3 then more is needed. Plus there are some very long passenger and freight cars on the market now where the curves need much more spacing than the straights. Do not forget about height above the rails for bridges/tunnels. I like 10 inches above the rail head and have not had any issues even with 1/20.3.
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I went with 9" centers on my 15" wide sections. That gives me three inches from center to outside edge. It worked out perfect for my double crossover which is #8 switches and allows for the larger 7/8ths to pass comfortably. No issues with the longer passenger cars at 1/32 scale on the curves at 10' radius. The key thing I was looking at for clearance was when cab roofs that flop over to one side (always on the inside it seems), would not obstruct a passing train. So far its been good enough.
Cheers,
Scott
Cheers,
Scott
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I usually built 9” separation (whether from center to center or outer rail to outer rail).
Sharper curves or long passenger cars would call for a different separation.
Generally speaking I always went with the greatest separation I could live with because I never knew what the future would involve for me.
The future never turned out to be what I thought it was going to be but usually turned out to be more demanding than I had anticipated. But then I never was building for prototypical accuracy of any kind.
Often times there was not just a concern with hitting other trains but also hitting switch track parts, buildings or anything else I had not anticipated. Locos going through S curves to enter a siding would be a problem and another problem is often cabooses with outside marker lamps that would snag a similar caboose on an adjacent siding or a loco going around a curve that would reach out and snag the lanterns.
Everyone has different priorities which create different problems to be dealt with.
Sharper curves or long passenger cars would call for a different separation.
Generally speaking I always went with the greatest separation I could live with because I never knew what the future would involve for me.
The future never turned out to be what I thought it was going to be but usually turned out to be more demanding than I had anticipated. But then I never was building for prototypical accuracy of any kind.
Often times there was not just a concern with hitting other trains but also hitting switch track parts, buildings or anything else I had not anticipated. Locos going through S curves to enter a siding would be a problem and another problem is often cabooses with outside marker lamps that would snag a similar caboose on an adjacent siding or a loco going around a curve that would reach out and snag the lanterns.
Everyone has different priorities which create different problems to be dealt with.
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When laying my track i took the advise of others here and went for wider clearances. I run mostly 1:24 but I used two 1:20.3 box cars as clearance checkers considering what guests might bring over to run Can't recall exactly without going out in the cold to measure but 9 1/2 to 10 inches on center is about right. Experiments with a couple of "heavyweight" passenger cars in 1:29 and had plenty of clearance in all curves where is more of a overhang. My Bachmann's clear with no problem. I also built all tunnels to 10" height. Big for 1:29 but nothing hits the sides or top. HAve fun
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Easiest way to figure out the spacing is to take 3 of any car type and set them side by side. Add a skosh more for good measure and there you have it, the correct spacing. If you think you'll add wider cars at some point add another skoch. Better yet beg or barrow the wider cars from someone to repeat this method for certainty, but still add that skosh. That's the straight-aways.
On curves do the same with the longest cars you intend or might run. Same method as above if there will be larger scale cars on curves. Vitally important you use the longest cars you likely to run, a heavy weight passenger coach probably ideal. Add the same skosh and there you are. Works every time.
Of course if you run different scales remember to use the largest scale cars for your side-by-side + skosh fittings. It's an old method but still works really well. With a ruler it seems like you're being precise but you're not. Only the actual cars you will run yields precision.
One really important thing. If you intend or you have friends who intend to run any of the 4 Accucraft 1:20.3 K series Narrow Gauge locomotives (K-27; K-28; K-36; K-37) test the track spacing of curves with one or more of the series on the curves versus a longest car (passenger coach.) Their pilots have a particularly long overhang and can really cause trouble if your spacing hasn't taken that overhang into account. A awful lot of folks can testify to that overhang issue. I've seen a couple of spectacular wrecks because of it. Someone else may have the same advice for a different particular scale and locomotive combination.
Ultimately track spacing on curves depends on the radius vs length of the caar.coach. A 20' Radius curve will take a lot tighter spacing than a 5' Radius.
On curves do the same with the longest cars you intend or might run. Same method as above if there will be larger scale cars on curves. Vitally important you use the longest cars you likely to run, a heavy weight passenger coach probably ideal. Add the same skosh and there you are. Works every time.
Of course if you run different scales remember to use the largest scale cars for your side-by-side + skosh fittings. It's an old method but still works really well. With a ruler it seems like you're being precise but you're not. Only the actual cars you will run yields precision.
One really important thing. If you intend or you have friends who intend to run any of the 4 Accucraft 1:20.3 K series Narrow Gauge locomotives (K-27; K-28; K-36; K-37) test the track spacing of curves with one or more of the series on the curves versus a longest car (passenger coach.) Their pilots have a particularly long overhang and can really cause trouble if your spacing hasn't taken that overhang into account. A awful lot of folks can testify to that overhang issue. I've seen a couple of spectacular wrecks because of it. Someone else may have the same advice for a different particular scale and locomotive combination.
Ultimately track spacing on curves depends on the radius vs length of the caar.coach. A 20' Radius curve will take a lot tighter spacing than a 5' Radius.
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Curve spacing is the most important especially with the newer very long passenger and freight cars.
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And on the curves, remember that cars overhang at BOTH ends differently.
The attached shows how I was checking my original spacing of 4 ½" with my longest cars, before when rebuilding the railway to 5 ½"
All the best,
David Leech, Delta, Canada
![Image]()
The attached shows how I was checking my original spacing of 4 ½" with my longest cars, before when rebuilding the railway to 5 ½"
All the best,
David Leech, Delta, Canada
Since you are talking about straight sections I will tell you that 8" is to narrow for the roadbed. We use 11" here in PNLS for our double track with each track 1/2" from the outer edge for balast. I'm not sure on the on center measurements but, the information was given to our club by Daniel Smith, my cousin. Yes that's the famous garden rr builder. I'd go and measure but Im currently working almost 600 miles from the club track.
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