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Nick Jr

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Discussion starter · #1 · (Edited)
It was brought to my attention that I could combine my life long love of trains and my new found interest in Tug Boats. There is still an operating barge system between NY & NJ run by PRR.
I am going about this in what could be considered reverse order as the barge will be built before the tug as it will be a scratch build, the tug is a kit, PRR. The scale of the tug was a serious consideration as I wanted to use the cars, track and possibly other things that I already have.
So far I have what will be the deck with the track plan. Have small parts on order, hope to receive this week.
 

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#4 ·
J&M made a very nice PRR tugboat and a small car float in 1/32 scale; these show up from time to time for a price. PRR had quite a few tug and barge operations: the ones in New York harbor from Greenville to Long Island or Manhattan, The one at the tip of the Delmarva peninsula to Norfolk or thereabouts, and I understand that they had one on lake Michigan from one of the terminus of that branch going up to Mackinaw city up to the north. but I have very little info on this latter one.

But these are standard gauge and I thought that you were running Sandy River Nick?

Indeed there is a new company that has been set up to recreate a tug and railroad car float barge service in New York, I just read it in the Trains Newswire. I have no idea when the ex Pennsy ones closed, I think they said it has been thirty years since which would mean 1988. Other roads had car floats in New York harbor too.
 
#5 ·
A few weeks ago I visited the open house of the electric boat club in the Villages, FL. On the scale side were a couple of barges with cable attached "tow" boats pushing and being maneuvered by tugs at the bow for sharper turns. The freight was containers but certainly train cars could have been the cargo. All of this was RC controlled and more impressive to me than the high speed electric boats negotiating the "racing" oval.
 
Discussion starter · #7 · (Edited)
Pete: I should have said "was operated" by PRR., although the PRR is alive and well in my house. The Tug is named Jersey City and has a large PRR logo painted on the stack.
du-bousquetair: I do have the Sandy River, among several others, a lot of standard sized 1:29. The kit is made by Dumas and is 1:32, close enough for me.
Tom: this tug will also be R/C'd. Nick @ Harbor Models directed me to the Viper Marine 25, very versatile. It acts like a servo, supplies power to the receiver and is also programmable for Fwd & Rev using only one stick on the transmitter.
 

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Discussion starter · #8 ·
Since I am using 1/4" underlay for decking I felt the need to add stringers below deck following the rail profile to give the nails a better bite and also secure the deck from flexing. A pic of a tie plate cut in half. I saw a pic of what looked like that welded to the deck with the rail secured to it. Made two track gauges from scrap wood, crude looking but non the less accurate. Making progress. LiG
 

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#9 ·
Nick, I also got the Dumas Jersey City tub. Great boat takes some getting used to controlling it correctly. Leans easy with to much speed. The prop gives it plenty of muscle to push a loaded barge of 12-15 cars. A track barge needs to be 7'6". Use 250 code rail looks allot better. Put latex foam in all the rail cars, don't ask how I know this... also put foam in the barge it self. To make it operate more scale on the bottom of the barge put reverse v cleats to add resistance which makes the tug work harder and kick up more water, looks scale and makes it work slower which is scale. I rode along side one on the Hudson in a friends boat and boy was it pushing hard and moving slow. I made 2 barges a 3 track barge and a 2 track loading barge with the center platform. Working on a Crane drag line barge barge now. Also the wooden tires that come with the kit discard and buy a used Hess 18 wheeler. Tires look 1000% better and they are soft which helps when you are attached to the side of the barge. Harbor models makes a great smoke unit for it and believe it or not Dallee makes a great sounding tug sound unit with tug horn. Call and they can demo it for you. Jack
 
Discussion starter · #11 ·
Jack, I appreciate your advice. I measured my barge to hold 11 cars, a 3 track with the turnout. I am going to put foam in the barge, and can figure why to also put it in the cars, reason is not fun I'm sure. Still in basic construction so I can easily add the reverse V cleats, good idea. I also didn't like the wood tires. I am going to use 8' sections of 332 Al rail as that is what I have on hand and it's just collecting dust. I figure if I paint the rail same as the deck, with just the top polished, that may size it down some, I also am due to receive the Dumas running hardware which has a geared down assembly. Your tug is beautiful, and thank you for the info on the sound and smoke units. Am looking at marine paint, but thinking that may be over kill, your thoughts??? LiG
 
#12 ·
Decks are basic gray primer rustoleum rattle can. Hull was painted with reddish primer then above the water line was gloss black again rustoleum rattle cab, This way any scratches in the black the sprimer below made it look like rust for little nicks and scratches. Cabin is caboose red air brushed. Still looks great. A little ware and tear makes it even look better. All lights are 1mm SMD LEDs prewired for 12v that you can get on Ebay for a couple bucks for a dozen. I use the Dumas 12V motor instead of the 6V. Battery lasts longer. When you add ballast use buck shot in zip lock bags mixed with a little glue. Easy to add more or take some away if you need to change anything. The stuffing tube that comes with the Dumas setup is just OK. I used it for weeks and did not have to add grease, white lithium, topped it off as usual one day and after 15 min run time the water alarm went off. Got it back just before damage. I had to rip it out and put in a greaseless stuffing tube, wish I did from the start it was a hassle and took allot of time to do. PS get a water alarm also. Sits in the bottom and has a super bright flashing LED you mount out side mine is in the wheel house works great for less then $10 and will save you a walk or swim out to save it. Also if you run it with no one else running a boat have in your tool bag a Popel Pocket Fishing rod. I paid 7.50 on eBay. Put a small weight on it so you can cast over the boat and drag it back in. Had to do that rescue twice when I got weeds wrapped around the prop once and the second time was an old fishing line floating in the water that wrapped around the prop jamming it. If some one is running at the same time they can push you back. On youtube you can see how to make a rescue frame out of 1/2" PVC pipe you strap to the rescue boat to help retrieve the boat. Costs about $4 in material with pipe and caps and about 10min to make. The gears that come in the kit give it a 1 to 3 reduction and work great, just keep them greased each use. They are brass and will wear fast if run dry. Mine are 5 years old and run and look like new.
 
Discussion starter · #15 · (Edited)
Jack, thank you for the additional advice and information. I also got the 12V motor. When I spoke about paint, I meant for the barge, since I am making it out of wood. Didn't know the 'stuffing tube' was for grease, looks like a tight enough fit to use heavy oil. LiG
 
Discussion starter · #17 ·
Alan, thank you for the update. I not only like to build things, but knowing the history of some of them is even better. I printed that out and will keep it with the model when I do build it. I had at one time thought of changing the name to TRINITY, a beloved dog of mine that has passed. I do like the history of the name. Bouncing back and forth. LiG
 
#18 ·
Hi Nick,
Great minds think alike they say. ;) I have a Bachmann 1;22.5 J&S car repainted to represent a diner. That is named, Poppy, after one of my dead dogs. Incidentally my backyard is a dog and cat graveyard having always had those kind animals since we came here in 1965.
The cross Hudson ferries are quite interesting, since a few railroads had them. I get much of my 'history' of American railroads from Classic Trains - a great read.
My railroad is mainly Aristo stock, set in 1950 - 1970 era, which Aristo seemed to specialize in. My structures, principally built from lumber patio decking - they will see me out most likely :eek: - and most represent North American buildings. There is a grain elevator, a barn, a covered bridge and the old school house at Waubeka WI. Lots of history with them.
 
Discussion starter · #19 ·
Alan, we do seem like minded in several things. I have all of my past little family members in Urns on a book shelf. And my consist is also largely the Aristo 50's and 60's. My track is elevated as getting up and down became a chore several years ago so I presently have no structures. When the track was ground level I made several using the Jig Stone method and they are still in use on another layout. LiG
 
Discussion starter · #20 · (Edited)
I have made some progress in the build. Fashioned what looks like the bow of the one in the pic. Taking the advice I received here and also on another forum, filled the ballast area with foam, have enough left over to also install in the cars I intend to use, thank you for sharing that advice Jack as I'd hate to loose 11 cars in an event. Planning on using Kilz as a sealer and primer since ti will only be in the water for one hour at a time, other suggestions welcome.
 

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Nick Jr
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