My wall train project will have 6 foot diameter turns, still that's tighter than what most consider desirable. I was wondering if bearing wheel would ease the load on the engine when pull stock through the curves? Worthwhile investment?
Bearing wheels. Opinions ,Experience?
OldNoob
21 - 31 of 31 Posts
U got it about right Greg, thin wall tubing slightly shorter than the b2b spacing, spacers or axles
cut to length to control the "going wide" problem... I got to playing around with BBs & differentials
back in the early to mid 90s as part of some early R/C work I was doing with some old Tamiya
6 meter RC equipment, an I had some heavy battery cars that needed all the help they could get..
My layout, built in the early 90s is all 4 ft radius, the biggest available at the time, its really a test
track, I don't really "run trains" much on it at all, but I test a lot on it... The addition of BBs & diffing
the axles did wonders for getting those heavy battery cars around the layout, albeit expensive at
the time, but I normally run on much larger radius track these days. I posted a lot of the test results
on the old forums of the day, LSOL and the Aristo forums, all long gone... Its only been the last few
years that BBs have been available at prices that made this kind of stuff practical & affordable though...
Paul R...
cut to length to control the "going wide" problem... I got to playing around with BBs & differentials
back in the early to mid 90s as part of some early R/C work I was doing with some old Tamiya
6 meter RC equipment, an I had some heavy battery cars that needed all the help they could get..
My layout, built in the early 90s is all 4 ft radius, the biggest available at the time, its really a test
track, I don't really "run trains" much on it at all, but I test a lot on it... The addition of BBs & diffing
the axles did wonders for getting those heavy battery cars around the layout, albeit expensive at
the time, but I normally run on much larger radius track these days. I posted a lot of the test results
on the old forums of the day, LSOL and the Aristo forums, all long gone... Its only been the last few
years that BBs have been available at prices that made this kind of stuff practical & affordable though...
Paul R...
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712 Posts
At the risk of resurrecting an old thread,,,
I happened to purchased a passenger car on EvilBay recently that surprisingly came with one LGB bearing wheel. So i was able to get a glance first hand at the difference they can make. So after seeing the results, now im pretty much motivated to spend the extra cash to purchase a couple sets.
I happened to purchased a passenger car on EvilBay recently that surprisingly came with one LGB bearing wheel. So i was able to get a glance first hand at the difference they can make. So after seeing the results, now im pretty much motivated to spend the extra cash to purchase a couple sets.
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4,268 Posts
I once purchased the single ball bearing wheel sets from Gary Raymond. Been working fine for years.
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24,522 Posts
Remember that you want the 2 wheels to turn independently, which means there is at least one ball bearing in the "hub" of one wheel.
If you have an LGB wheelset, then there should be ball bearings in both hubs, and little pins protruding from the axle for power pickup also.
I would imagine the car you have was retrofitted mainly for power pickup.
Greg
If you have an LGB wheelset, then there should be ball bearings in both hubs, and little pins protruding from the axle for power pickup also.
I would imagine the car you have was retrofitted mainly for power pickup.
Greg
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712 Posts
Good to know. ive been considering purchasing from him. He has a lot of options. Do they spin freely like the LGBs?
Thanks for the reminder. I think you are right the battery door was missing.
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24,522 Posts
When you have a single ball bearing wheel, you have to ensure the axle spins in the journals freely. I do not see how this can be as low friction given the sloppy tolerances typical in G scale and the lack of any friction reducing device at the axle tops.
It seems to be a halfway point, in terms of friction reduction and cost, which might indeed fit your situation.
Greg
It seems to be a halfway point, in terms of friction reduction and cost, which might indeed fit your situation.
Greg
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523 Posts
I have found that LGB and Piko have the most free-rolling motion (of the ones I've tested). I think the Piko ones are a little cheaper, but be sure to order the smaller 30mm. The 35mm wheels are too large for most LGB, USA, BAC rolling stock.
The only time I use the extra large 35mm is to convert older Aristo diesels into free-rolling "dummies"...saves power when running ABA lashups that don't really need that much traction. The wheelsets fit right in the brass journals.
The only time I use the extra large 35mm is to convert older Aristo diesels into free-rolling "dummies"...saves power when running ABA lashups that don't really need that much traction. The wheelsets fit right in the brass journals.
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24,522 Posts
That's a good tip to know about fitting the Aristo diesels.
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523 Posts
...An even cooler tip is when doing this you lower the locomotive the "easy way". Take the side frames off completely and then place them 1/4 or so higher up on the "A-frame", drill new holes and replace! This is how I lowered my fleet of RDC trailers. I swapped the fake Budd side frames for working AAR frames and didi modification mentioned...also cut off the brake gear to make them closer resemble the Budds since RDCs have discs anyways.
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24,522 Posts
Your tips are on my web site, thanks!
Your link to your blog is broke by the way.
Greg
Your link to your blog is broke by the way.
Greg
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