Well, I started handlaying track and figured what the heck why not try a switch or twelve? So my main question is, for those out there that hand lay switches, how do you make your points? I have seen some that are like prototypical switches where the points are solid track all the way to the frog. I started making mine more like Aristo or LGB switches where the points have a pivot point in them. The type of switch mechanism i use won't work with the solid rail type. So, what does everyone else do?

For the record I am using code 332 aluminum rail.

Thanks in advance for any help.

Terry

I also use the pivot with half rail joiners.

I make a small dent in each rail with a drill then "punch" the joiner into it.  Gives a loose joint that can move but wont separate unexpectedly.

 

Pretty sure that idea came from the linked thread above.. 

 

I have handlaid many switches this past summer using a variety of methods (using code 215 aluminum rail).

 

1) stub switches ... have the moving part on the "point end" if you can use that terminology.  I use a solid rail and allow the equivalent of 4 ties unspiked for the rail to move.  I drill through the inside web of the rail and insert a brass escutcheon pin.  This pin goes through a small hole in a brass throw bar and is soldered to the underside.  The switch throw is by a choke cable which has no trouble moving the solid rails and holding them in place.

 

2) regular switches ... i have used both solid rail and the pivot method finding there is little to choose between them.  perhaps the pivot method requires a bit less precision if no switch jig is being used.  For the pivot I use a full llagas Creek rail joiner and have not found that it has worked loose.  Aluminum oxidizes to almost a weld if it is allowed to sit for any length of time.  The points themselves are ground on a grinder (carefully so the heat does not deform the aluminum) and finished with a file.  Again the throwbar is brass attached by escutcheon pins through the rail web with a choke cable switch throw.

 

In the end, I don't think it matters much which method of making the points pivot is used ... the harder part by far is grinding the proper angle for the points and the recess in the stock rails (not to mention making the correct frog angle).

 

Regards ... Doug