| Author | Messages | |
DKRickman 1st Class Member Salisbury, NC
 Foreman Posts:346
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 | | 09/29/2008 5:16 PM |
| Pictures! I love pictures....
First, the chassis assembled, complete with a new crosshead guide support
Here's the truck, showing the spring arrangement that I came up with. If you look closely, you can see that the mounting point on the chassis is actually angled (front end closer to the track), which puts downward pressure on the truck. I think the truck is now ready for paint.
Just for fun, a before and after shot of the cylinders. It's amazing to me that both fit exactly the same model. The only significant change (other than narrowing the whole assembly, of course) is that the valve rods are no longer centered above the cylinders.  | | Kenneth Rickman - krickman1@carolina.rr.com Salisbury, NC If at first you don't succeed, use a bigger hammer! | |
| docwatsonva 1st Class Member Hendersonville, NC
 Foreman Posts:104
Send Message
 | | 09/30/2008 5:38 AM |
| Ken, That's looking better all the time. I hope you can bring it on Saturday. Doc | | | |
| DKRickman 1st Class Member Salisbury, NC
 Foreman Posts:346
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 | | 09/30/2008 6:03 AM |
| Doc,
We'll be there. The get-together is giving me the motivation to at least get it in some sort of running condition, even without paint or a tender. | | Kenneth Rickman - krickman1@carolina.rr.com Salisbury, NC If at first you don't succeed, use a bigger hammer! | |
| DKRickman 1st Class Member Salisbury, NC
 Foreman Posts:346
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 | | 10/01/2008 5:04 PM |
| It's Alive!!!
This evening, I soldered a 7.5V wall wart directly to the motor, and plugged her in (through a switched outlet, of course). After a little tweaking (put the main drive gear on backwards), she runs pretty well. There's a little wheel wobble, but nothing I can't live with. My main concern was that the ground down and bushed out crank pins would cause a bind, but the engine runs as well with both sets of drivers as it does with one. One thing I learned was that she'll be plenty fast enough on 12 volts, so I'm thinking maybe 14.4V on the batteries, to deal with losses and load.
In other news, I made and epoxied in the smokebox braces, and then proceded to paint both the cylinder/deck and pilot blue. I'm figuring on painting the cylinder jackest russia iron, to match the boiler, and possible the valve chest wrapper brass. Any opinions? | | Kenneth Rickman - krickman1@carolina.rr.com Salisbury, NC If at first you don't succeed, use a bigger hammer! | |
| DKRickman 1st Class Member Salisbury, NC
 Foreman Posts:346
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 | | 10/02/2008 12:08 PM |
| I finally went and bacame a 1st class member. My, these extra features sure are nice! It's amazing what a coat of paint will do for a model. Not much progress other than paint, but it's woth a couple pictures. The blue isn't quite as bright as it loks in the photos. It's actually a nice royal blue, just dark enough to look classy (in my humble opinion, anyway)
The boiler will not be black. I've got some Testor's Metalizer (stainless, I think) which I intend to put on over the black, for a russia iron look. My hope is that the black base will darken the stainless a bit.
| | Kenneth Rickman - krickman1@carolina.rr.com Salisbury, NC If at first you don't succeed, use a bigger hammer! | |
| astrayelmgod 1st Class Member Ventura CA
 Brakeman Posts:97
Send Message
 | | 10/02/2008 6:02 PM |
| | Your pictures were better before you became a first class member.... | | | |
| DKRickman 1st Class Member Salisbury, NC
 Foreman Posts:346
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 | | 10/02/2008 7:08 PM |
| Posted By astrayelmgod on 10/02/2008 6:02 PM
Your pictures were better before you became a first class member....
I noticed... The pictures are the same, at least on my computer, but the display seems different. Probably something I'm doing wrong. | | Kenneth Rickman - krickman1@carolina.rr.com Salisbury, NC If at first you don't succeed, use a bigger hammer! | |
| DKRickman 1st Class Member Salisbury, NC
 Foreman Posts:346
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 | | 10/03/2008 6:08 PM |
| Here's a major milestone - a brand new cab! I'd been using a Delton C-16 cab. It worked, but it was not the style I wanted, and it was a bit warped, and it was a bit small for 1:20.3. So I finally got the energy to make a new one. With plenty of inspiration from the Porter Masterclass, here's the result:
There's still plenty of work to do on it. Varios details need to be added, the sheet metal plate on the front to protect the wood from the heat of the boiler, and plenty of clean-up. But overal, it looks like a cab, and really changes the style of the engine.
| | Kenneth Rickman - krickman1@carolina.rr.com Salisbury, NC If at first you don't succeed, use a bigger hammer! | |
| cjwalas 1st Class Member Santa Barbara, California
 Foreman Posts:106
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 | | DKRickman 1st Class Member Salisbury, NC
 Foreman Posts:346
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 | | 10/03/2008 8:04 PM |
| Thanks, Chris!
I've been pushing to get the engine presentable for docwatsonva's get-together tomorrow. I just got the cab attached, and it really does look good. I'll be sure to take plenty of photos tomorrow. | | Kenneth Rickman - krickman1@carolina.rr.com Salisbury, NC If at first you don't succeed, use a bigger hammer! | |
| DKRickman 1st Class Member Salisbury, NC
 Foreman Posts:346
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 | | 10/05/2008 10:18 AM |
| Here are a couple photos from the get-together this weekend. She ran, although I have the motor wired backwards. It was very satisfying to see her move under her own power for the first time ever. It was also very useful to have something to compate to, size-wise. I've been working in a vaccuum, with no other large scale equipment, or even track. I don't have the "feel" for the scale, the way I do in HO, so I was a bit nervous how everything would scale out. I think it looks good. It's obvious just how small this engine is, once you get it around some other 1:20.3 equipment. One of the photos shows it sitting beside an LGB porter with a custom cab. | | Kenneth Rickman - krickman1@carolina.rr.com Salisbury, NC If at first you don't succeed, use a bigger hammer! | |
| cjwalas 1st Class Member Santa Barbara, California
 Foreman Posts:106
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 | | 10/05/2008 10:41 AM |
| Looks good, Ken! The size looks about right for the kind of loco it is. Should be a real eye-catcher when it's done! Chris | |
 Chris Walas - Rogue County Rwy Santa Barbra, California ( click here to visit the Rogue County Rwy ) | |
| DKRickman 1st Class Member Salisbury, NC
 Foreman Posts:346
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 | | 10/05/2008 11:05 AM |
| Thanks, Chris!
Does anyone know what an apropriate treatment would be for the tops of the running boards? At that time, I know that OSHA had never been heard of, so the same gloss paint as was used on the rest of the engine might have been used, but it seems like they'd at least have tried to make something anti-slip. Would they have put crushed walnut shells into the wet paint, as is done today on outdoor stair treads? Sand? Bare wood? Or something else entirely? | | Kenneth Rickman - krickman1@carolina.rr.com Salisbury, NC If at first you don't succeed, use a bigger hammer! | |
| David Fletcher Moderator Melbourne Australia
 Foreman Posts:128
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 | | 10/05/2008 2:09 PM |
| Looks really good Ken. Size looks spot on for that type of engine. Running board tops were usually treated with hard wearing paints, rather than the higher quality decorative paint used on the loco's visible sides. Mineral paints (red browns) with grit mixed in was used on running board tops and tender decks and tops, but other paints too. SP has been known to use some quite bright colours with grit, such as yellows. If you see the Col. Boone. live steamer 4-4-0 in the photo above, you can see a black loco with the mineral brown painted to running board tops and tender tops etc.
David. | |
 (click here for my web page) | |
| DKRickman 1st Class Member Salisbury, NC
 Foreman Posts:346
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 | | 10/05/2008 2:18 PM |
| David,
So, something like a mineral brown primer would be a good choice? I think it would fit well with the rest of the color scheme, which is blue with red wheels and white lining. | | Kenneth Rickman - krickman1@carolina.rr.com Salisbury, NC If at first you don't succeed, use a bigger hammer! | |
| peter bunce Moderator near manchester, England
 Foreman Posts:339
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 | | 10/06/2008 3:46 AM |
| Hi Ken,
That is looking good, the new cab will really set it off! There is some doubt IF the Porters had a metal sheet over the firebox & boiler assembly; when I did my blue (#7) Porter the decision was that they didn't. The mineral brown color for the top of the running boards is a deep red oxide or brick red on mine; the paint was loaded with sand to provide a grip, and that sort of color is more durable (think deep barn red) that the fancy work on the rest of the loco. It also extends to the cab floor, and also the inside of the tender - all for the same reasons - durability. The cab roof could be covered in paper (varnish/paint it down onto the surface, and wrap the edges and fix with glue), then you can mark the paper (it will/should make a dent in the paper) with a pencil to indicate the joins between the protective metal sheets fitted there. Finally add some rainstrips along the outer and back edges the paint it a several shades of 'mucky grey'. Finshit off with some streaks when the main color is dry.
When you have added the metallic paint over the black it may be an idea to varnish it when dry; to ad some protection. Boiler bands can be added from painted paper (and varnished). No need to worry about the difference in the position of the valve chest; it will just mean that the steam passages are slightly longer! Bachmann 4 4 0's have them inboard of the cylinder centerline.
It looks nice amongst the rest of the loco's. Congratulations, and welcome to the club of scratch builders 
Thanks for the extra photos, look forward to the tender, is it going to be 4 or 6 wheeled? | | Peter Bunce. my website is part of my daughters website at www.musiccorner.co.uk', under the G scale sections on the left hand side. | |
| DKRickman 1st Class Member Salisbury, NC
 Foreman Posts:346
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 | | 10/06/2008 4:34 AM |
| Thanks for the comments and the compliments, Peter.
Part of the fun of making a freelance model is that I don't have to worry quite as mich about what any specific builder did. To me, the firebox looked like a very large area to leave exposed on such a small boiler, so I put lagging around it. I've decided that the engine looks a lot like a Porter, but that was more accident than intention. I've been borrowing freely from Porter, Baldwin, Mason, Rogers, and any other builder which made something nice.
Thanks for the suggestion on the cab roof. I've been wondering how I was going to get that look.
I'll definitely be varnishing, or at least clear coating in some way, the boiler. I have an idea which I'd like to run by the folks here. Might even try it out on some scrap. Basically, make the boiler bands from .005" brass, and glue them down. Paint the whole boiler "russia iron," seal apropriately, and then tape off everything other than the bands. Sand the paint away, buff and polish the brass, remove the tape, and clear coat the entire thing. Does that sound feasible? I'd rather not try to glue the bands to a painted boiler, since there's no room for error at that point.
The tender, whenever I get around to it, will be 8 wheeled. I played around with 4 and 6, but I decided that I really like the Mason trucks, and I like the way an 8 wheeled tender looks. Of course, I may still change my mind, but that's the plan at the moment. | | Kenneth Rickman - krickman1@carolina.rr.com Salisbury, NC If at first you don't succeed, use a bigger hammer! | |
| peter bunce Moderator near manchester, England
 Foreman Posts:339
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 | | 10/06/2008 4:49 AM |
| Hi Ken,
Brass can over time discolour, which is why I suggested that you use painted paper; it may be an idea to add some thin paper ones now (before the metallic paint) to give you the location of them; when painted lay on the painted versios on the now showing locations, then varnish down the lot.
No sanding off required with the possibility of marking the lovely finish you will have with the metallic paint, don't forget to buff it up before varnishing, which will make it a touch darker normally. | | Peter Bunce. my website is part of my daughters website at www.musiccorner.co.uk', under the G scale sections on the left hand side. | |
| David Fletcher Moderator Melbourne Australia
 Foreman Posts:128
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 | | 10/06/2008 5:27 AM |
| I'm sure the mineral paints came in a variety of tints over the years, Jim Wilke and Jon Davis have consistently shown it as a dark brown, with not much red in it at all, its not necessarily oxide red that one thinks of, just a mineral based paint. But I agree, go with the tint you like. I generally go with a Linolium brown, which is a dark brown, with slight red tint, and then dust over that some matt black, which adds a speckled finish, giving the look texture and also deepening the colour. Checkout My Mason Bogie #42 for some close up views of this finish. Jim Wilke did the painting on the D&RG 'Music Pass' C-16 dark green and mineral brown as seen in my web site, and you can see how deep it is in the photos as well.
Conversely, CP Huntington was restored in 1914 based on techniquies and painting that the shop crews knew of the day and times past, and painted the entire loco's running boards and tender top with yellow and grit added, yellow was more a safety feature so crews could see where they were walking.
David. | |
 (click here for my web page) | |
| cudak888
South Florida
 Brakeman Posts:67
Send Message
 | | 10/06/2008 6:55 PM |
| DK, I might be a little late in mentioning this, but I've had unbelievable success with the generic Plastic Epoxy (don't recall the brand name, though their 5-minute epoxy always invades every ACE Hardware I know of) for gluing styrene and PVC together. James' boiler is attached in such a manner. Won't tear off if you wanted it to.
-Kurt | | | |
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