RCSRC

 | 

Wednesday, December 03, 2008   You Are Here: Forums

 


Subject: BATTERY TROUBLE
Forum Sponsored By: Electric Model Works
Forum sponsored by:Electric Model Works
 
Prev Next
You are not authorized to post a reply.
Page 1 of 212 > >>
AuthorMessages
John JUser is Offline
Moderator
Conductor
Conductor
Posts:802

Send Message
09/30/2008 5:23 PM  
I had a lot of battery trouble at Marty's   I have been using  Chicago Electric Cordless drill batteries  for years with great sucess.    I had a few Fail this year due to age.
 
I bought  4 new ones for  Marty's.   I had trouble making two laps around Marty's layout before they were dead. 
 
It is time to re think my batteries.
 
I am now looking at what Bubba  is using.   Milwalkee cordless drill batteries.
 
To add to all my frustrations  I  connected a battery to my  Air Wire Reciever  reverse polarity.  I toasted my Air Wire Reciever.
 
Someone at Marty's had a  big  hunker of a Diode ineries with thier Positive Lead.
 
Does anyone know what type  to put in seires with my positive lead to  prevent  damage due to wrong polairity?
 

Bill SwindellUser is Offline
1st Class Member
Martinez, CA
Foreman
Foreman
Posts:185

Send Message
09/30/2008 6:56 PM  
The diode should be rated at 50V and at least 10 amps.




Bill Swindell
Martinez, CA
Del TapparoUser is Offline
1st Class Member
Fort Collins, Colorado
Foreman
Foreman
Posts:220

Send Message
09/30/2008 6:58 PM  
and the downside is it will drop about 1 volt, which means if you have a 14.4V battery pack, it is now only good for 13.4V. You are better off just getting the wires straight in the first place.
 
As for the batteries, maybe your charger isn't up to par?

G-Scale Graphics
Custom Vinyl Lettering & Simple Low Cost Battery Power
www.GScaleGraphics.net
TorbyUser is Offline
1st Class Member
North Chicago 'burbs.
Engineer
Engineer
Posts:1736

Send Message
09/30/2008 7:01 PM  
Or use an FET.

"If Christianity was something we were making up, of course we could make it easier. But it is not. We cannot compete, in simplicity with people who are inventing religions. How could we? We are dealing with Fact. Of course anyone can be simple if he has no facts to bother about."-- C. S. Lewis
Bill SwindellUser is Offline
1st Class Member
Martinez, CA
Foreman
Foreman
Posts:185

Send Message
09/30/2008 7:03 PM  
Also John, what engine are you trying to run? A properly sized battery will save a lot of your problems.




Bill Swindell
Martinez, CA
Dan PierceUser is Offline
1st Class Member
South Eastern MA, USA
Foreman
Foreman
Posts:336

Send Message
10/01/2008 4:38 AM  
Instead of placing a diode in series thus lowering the voltage, place the diode across the receiver leads so that if backwards you create a short. This will blow the fuse (you do have a fuse installed do you not?) which costs much less than a controller/receiver.
Bill SwindellUser is Offline
1st Class Member
Martinez, CA
Foreman
Foreman
Posts:185

Send Message
10/01/2008 6:01 AM  
Dan, that's a very good idea.
 
By the way, running NiMH, NiCad and Li-ion batteries without a fuse can lead to FIRE and melted pieces. !




Bill Swindell
Martinez, CA
altterrainUser is Offline

silver spring, md
Conductor
Conductor
Posts:511

Send Message
10/01/2008 10:48 AM  
Posted By Del Tapparo on 09/30/2008 6:58 PM
and the downside is it will drop about 1 volt, which means if you have a 14.4V battery pack, it is now only good for 13.4V. You are better off just getting the wires straight in the first place.
 
As for the batteries, maybe your charger isn't up to par?

Those HarborFreight / ChicagoElectric batteries are only rated at 1.4 amp hours at best. I think if I was to go the power tool battery route, I'd go with lithium. I really like the lithium packs I have with Makita drill and impact driver. They hold a charge much better in storage than any Nicad or NiMH packs. -Brian

Presidents of

Paul BurchUser is Offline
1st Class Member
Gig Harbor Washington
Foreman
Foreman
Posts:193

Send Message
10/01/2008 4:06 PM  
John,
Have you thought about gettting away from the power tool batteries?  On models that I have done for others I just go a simple route with something like in the following link. Buy two,strap them together,wire in series and you have a simple high mah pack. Granted,14.4v but for me that is enough.  Look at the physical size and mah rating on these compared to the tool batteries. If you use the Tamiya connectors it will also eliminate the polarity issue as they can only be connected one way.
 

Paul Burch
Sierra Cascade & Pacific R.R.
Jerry BarnesUser is Offline
1st Class Member
Lexington, NE
Engineer
Engineer
Posts:1011

Send Message
10/01/2008 7:01 PM  
WOW Paul, those are some darn good prices for such large mah ones, LOTS cheaper than Radio Shack. Will the 7.2 chargers I have(for smaller packs) work okay with those? How long a runs do you get with the 3800's? Jerry

Life is too short to take seriously.
Paul BurchUser is Offline
1st Class Member
Gig Harbor Washington
Foreman
Foreman
Posts:193

Send Message
10/01/2008 7:14 PM  
Jerry,
A couple things. I don't pesonally use these packs,I build my own 4200mah packs from individual cells.  With two of these wired togeter you actually have a 14.4 volt pack and would thus need a charger for 14.4volts. I have a LGB Mikado here that I converted to Airwire and P5 sound for a friend.   It is setup for one of these batteries.  I'm guessing about 2-3 hours of run time with an average train.  Run time is just too variable to come up with a good run time answer.  My point with these batteries is that they are an easy compact solution with a good mah rating.

Paul Burch
Sierra Cascade & Pacific R.R.
Greg ElmassianUser is Offline
1st Class Member
Carlsbad (San Diego), CA
Engineer
Engineer
Posts:1311

Send Message
10/01/2008 7:47 PM  
You can use a Schotky diode in series with the input. They have a voltage drop about half or less than a normal diode. Easy and quick.

Regards, Greg


Be sure to visit my site, lots of technical tips and modifications, and you can search for topics and key words.
Click here for Greg's web site
Stan CedarleafUser is Offline
1st Class Member
Dewey, AZ
Conductor
Conductor
Posts:515

Send Message
10/01/2008 8:20 PM  
Posted By John J on 09/30/2008 5:23 PM
 
Someone at Marty's had a  big  hunker of a Diode ineries with thier Positive Lead.
 
Does anyone know what type  to put in seires with my positive lead to  prevent  damage due to wrong polairity?
 

JJ......  I have a bunch at home.  I'll mail you a couple when I get home....


Dewey, AZ

Cedarleaf Custom Railroad Decals
altterrainUser is Offline

silver spring, md
Conductor
Conductor
Posts:511

Send Message
10/02/2008 1:11 AM  
Posted By Jerry Barnes on 10/01/2008 7:01 PM
WOW Paul, those are some darn good prices for such large mah ones, LOTS cheaper than Radio Shack. Will the 7.2 chargers I have(for smaller packs) work okay with those? How long a runs do you get with the 3800's? Jerry
 
 
 
Jerry,
 
I have used a couple of their 8.4v 3.8Ah packs to make 16.8v packs. I get 3-4 hours of run time with my Aristo E-8 pulling a head end box car/battery-TE car and 3 smoothside cars.
 
-Brian

Presidents of

John JUser is Offline
Moderator
Conductor
Conductor
Posts:802

Send Message
10/02/2008 4:31 AM  
So is it safe to assume that if you put   3  of these packs in series you cold run  on  21.6 volts for a long pieriod of time?
 
This looks like I could make my dummy  SD 45 a battery car.

Paul BurchUser is Offline
1st Class Member
Gig Harbor Washington
Foreman
Foreman
Posts:193

Send Message
10/02/2008 7:50 AM  
John,
At full charge a NIMH 14.4 pack will read about 16 volts,so three 7.2v packs in series would be about 24v at full charge.  I never have put three in series but see no reason why you couldn't.  If you are going to try these I'd go for the 4200mah.   Before I bought them,I would make sure there is a charger available that will charge the 21.6v NIMH pack.

Paul Burch
Sierra Cascade & Pacific R.R.
Jim KellyUser is Offline
1st Class Member
Brakeman
Brakeman
Posts:30

Send Message
10/02/2008 5:46 PM  
I recently got a battery from http://cordlessrenovations.com/

Very pleased it solved a voltage problem I had with Marklin Gauge 1.

If you like the site, call them, you'll get the owner and he may have some good ideas
billsharronUser is Offline
1st Class Member
New Truxton, Missouri
Brakeman
Brakeman
Posts:90

Send Message
11/10/2008 10:53 AM  
Hey guys take a look at these: http://www.all-battery.com/4tenergypcbprotectedli-ion1865037v2200mahrechargeablebatteries.aspx. These 2200 Mah Li-ion batteries are what I use to make a 14.4volt battery pack. Talk about cheap at 28.99 plus a buck for a connector you get a heckuva great batterypack and unlike the NIMH you only need one pack instead of two. In another thread I reported my results using a Connie. I t ran for 5& 1/2 hours continuoi=usly pulling about eleven cars on level track. They are so compact I get everything into the tender. They are extremely light compared to heavy drill batteries. The batteries have built in PCB protection circuits and I have had no problems, when fully charged they test out at 16.2 volts. I use Tamiya connectors and that eliminates the polarity problem because you can't connect them wrong. I have 6 Li-ion packs ade this way and no longer need a battery car for anything. I modify tenders so the coal load lifts off and exposes the batteries. It just takes seconds to switch out a battery. The Teneregy Universal smart charger is cheap as well. No problems charging either, the batteries remain cool while charging, and the charger gets slightly warm. No problems what so ever.

TorbyUser is Offline
1st Class Member
North Chicago 'burbs.
Engineer
Engineer
Posts:1736

Send Message
11/11/2008 6:55 AM  
At $16.99 each, I find these a little hard to beat. I wire 2 of them together for 19.2v and hide them in the tender of my Mallet.
Ooh. Forgot the link: All-battery.com



Alas, they won't fit in my bachmann tender.

"If Christianity was something we were making up, of course we could make it easier. But it is not. We cannot compete, in simplicity with people who are inventing religions. How could we? We are dealing with Fact. Of course anyone can be simple if he has no facts to bother about."-- C. S. Lewis
MadstangUser is Offline
1st Class Member
Bellevue, NE
Foreman
Foreman
Posts:204

Send Message
11/11/2008 7:29 AM  
John I can send you the link to All Electronics.
 
 
 
 
As for the size of the diode I can send it to you when  get home...and the diagram that Stan Cedarleaf sent me waaay back when I first got into using the Airwire stuff...only I added EVERYTHING in the diagram that you may want to add to make installs easier for ANYONE to follow....diodes...... I purchased approx. 10-15 of them...always nice to have extras around.
 
Even though you might of fried the motor outs to the Airwire board..you can send the board in to Al at Airwire and iif it can be fixed it might only cost you $60-75 to get it repaired...alot less then the new board asking price.
 
I purchased a Airwire board from a guy in ther club that dropped out and sold his stuff..one board worked and the other did not...I sent it in and Al fixed it for $65 so I subtracted that from the $100 he wanted for it  
 
 
And I must clarify that I use the batts Marty turned me onto 18 volt Milwaukee batts ...what I turned him onto was the triple bay Milwaukee charger...I have 2 one that only charges the NiCads and one that will charge the Nichol metal hydride AND the NiCads.
 
 
I bought the charger on Ebay the one that charges the Nicads only are approx $47-50....I paid $115 when they came out...the one that charges BOTH is still 1pprox $140-50..approx 
 
 
Hopes this helps
 
Bubba

Bubba's
Platte River RR
Bellevue, NE
You are not authorized to post a reply.
Page 1 of 212 > >>




ActiveForums 3.7
Terms Of Use | Copyright 2007 by myLargescale.com/Model Railroads Online, LLC  | Privacy Statement