davetrou
1st Class Member
Lebanon, Oregon ( Willamette Valley)
Brakeman
Posts:13
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 | | 03/23/2008 9:01 PM |
| Embedded this in my webpage, Just testing.
Play slideshow
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Dave | |
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Mike Reilley
1st Class Member
Escondido, Ca
Foreman
Posts:461
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| | 03/24/2008 12:24 AM |
| | I'm just flat loving all that cribbing you have on your layout...sure helps me solve some issues on mine. Thanks. | |
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davetrou
1st Class Member
Lebanon, Oregon ( Willamette Valley)
Brakeman
Posts:13
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| | 03/24/2008 10:49 PM |
| Mike:
We had two days last week that it didn't rain. Just enough time to put in the two retaining wallsand rock. It's been raining for the last four days, and expect four more. So I'm planing more time in the shop this week, maybe more cribbing and retaining walls. I added three more (before) pictures so you could see the difference. | |
Dave | |
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davetrou
1st Class Member
Lebanon, Oregon ( Willamette Valley)
Brakeman
Posts:13
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calenelson
Non-Paying Member
Foreman
Posts:392
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| | 04/16/2008 3:01 PM |
| Nice Slide show there Dave...did you use any dead-legs in the big cribbing, can't tell from the shots, but it sure looks nice! from what I can see you have a beautiful layout!
cale | |
‘Course he isn’t safe. But he’s good. He’s the King I tell you. | |
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Mike Reilley
1st Class Member
Escondido, Ca
Foreman
Posts:461
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| | 04/16/2008 4:50 PM |
| | I'd like to know how you did the different kinds of cribbing. Which have posts? Which have dead legs? Did you build them on site...or in the shop? Stuff like that.... | |
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davetrou
1st Class Member
Lebanon, Oregon ( Willamette Valley)
Brakeman
Posts:13
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| | 04/17/2008 12:36 AM |
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Mike, Cale
Yes! I built the retaining walls in the shop where it was DRY and WARM. The cribbing on the bottom picture is about 8 feet long. I ripped all the pieces out of cedar, ½ x ½ 9.1/2 long. Next step, I drilled a #36 or 7/64 hole, 5/16” in from each end so I could insert a piece of 3/32 brazing rod. Then it’s glue slide over rod, pin nail. Glue slide over rod, pin nail. After three course’s I laid mine face down on a flat surface, put a board on the back side a smacked it with a hammer to line up the face side. This is a good time to check the bottom to make sure it is straight. At this point I let the glue dry so everything would stay straight. When I got to the top course I drilled the line up holes 3/8 deep and just glued it on. After I was done measuring, fitting, and sure I had what I wanted, I laid this face down, glued and pin nailed a post behind each overlapped section. Letting it protrude 5 inches below the bottom. To finish up I put a 90% lateral 10” long between the posts on every other course. After setting the wall in place, I drove a 1x2 x12”deadman down at the end of the laterals and screwed them to this.
The solid timber wall was built the same way without the brass rod, but cut the timbers 10’ long and overlapped each one, thus putting a post every 5 inch’s and 5” in the ground. I coated both with Watco medium walnut oil, then: over sprayed with flat black paint.
Hope this helps | |
Dave | |
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