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Subject: KITBASHED ARISTO COVERED HOPPER
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Dr GUser is Offline
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Ft Myers Florida
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08/19/2008 10:38 AM  
Toad,
I do not use regular chalk or pastels, I am using something called AIM weathering powder. They are some kind of pigment and an adhesive. The darker colors work best (the rust colors, earth and grimy black). The light colors are not as effective, but do work on dark colors.
You can order them direct, and although apparently expensive, a little goes a LONG way in my experience. I use a combination of a short flat brush that I cut the bristles down on and foam cosmetic wedges I swiped from my wifes cosmetic bag (don't tell her).
Here is a link to the web site:
http://www.aimprodx.com/index.php?page=powders
Matt

ps What is the code to get a link active--I just can't remember?


Matt--FEC Nut

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Ole Toad FrogUser is Offline
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Roasharon, Tx.
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08/19/2008 11:58 AM  
Dr. G,
I bought Doc O'brien's powders and the way they sad to mix rust turned into a night mare. I am new to powders and it really turned me off because if you have to mix 4 powders to make rust I think my air brush can shoot once with several mess ups which I would drag right off the bat with a brush. Worked before.:plain:
Might be powder is not for me.
Toad

Dr GUser is Offline
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08/19/2008 12:08 PM  
Not sure about the Doc O brien's, but my aim powders have several labeled light and dark rust--I just use 'em striaght? Mixing 4 together? Sounds like a lot of work to me as well.

For what it is worth the majority of the rust on this car was dry brushed and stippled on with old acrylic paint--burnt umber and raw sienna. The raw sienna 1st followed by the darker burnt umber. Seems rust is best simulated with light color 1st followed by dark. The theory, as I understand it, is that light rust is newer, and toward the outside margins, and dark rust is older and in the middle.

No airbursh yet!! I have 2 and will be using them shortly.

Matt


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Dr GUser is Offline
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Ft Myers Florida
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08/22/2008 8:03 PM  
Not a lot of progress, but we measure in small steps (no pun intended here<img src=" border=0>) I must admit this is one of my brighter ideas that has actually worked. I wanted the stirup (sp?) steps to be more scale, but could not break off the first time I ran the car--so I made them of brass strip I cut with a pair of tin snips and BOLTED them to the body of the car. Hay if the prototype can do this so can I. They are suprisingly strong--and yes, I have tried to knock them off!<img src=" border=0>

Let me know what ya think--anyone got another way of doing this that has stood the test of time (read operation outside)? This is purely experimental at this point.
Matt


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Ole Toad FrogUser is Offline
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Roasharon, Tx.
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08/22/2008 8:20 PM  
Dr. G,
Wow, you tried to knock them off! Your lot braver than I :D They do look nice I have to say.
Toad

Dr GUser is Offline
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08/22/2008 8:55 PM  
What can I tell you Toad--quality control Meadley Branch (my RR's name) style--flick it, if it don't fall off its good!

Matt


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Dr GUser is Offline
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08/23/2008 7:03 PM  
Getting close. I still think it needs a little touch up to tie it all together and I am still waiting for the air hoses from Ozark, but essentially done. I'll try to get better photos outside tomorow--the lighting inside makes everything a little orange.



Thanks for riding along. Next project is awaiting, can't wait to get started.;)

Matt


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Ole Toad FrogUser is Offline
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Roasharon, Tx.
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08/23/2008 7:27 PM  
Hey Dr. G,
There was a write up on how to make air hoses out of electric wire on here awhile back but not sure where.
Myself I lost that data when "big john" (computer) went South one day on me. It is on here some where thou.
I am waiting for the next ride along! This time I will be sure to bring train riding money <img src=" border=0> Toad



Note, found thread http://www.mylargescale.com/Community/Forums/tabid/56/forumid/8/tpage/1/view/topic/postid/12627/Default.aspx#13210


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