Ed Hume
1st Class Member
Austin TX
Brakeman
Posts:55
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 | | 09/07/2008 6:17 PM |
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Here is the hinge idea I came up with to have the roof open widely, but not hit the steam dome for the Climax locomotive model I am building. Another requirement is that the roof can stay in the open position for access to the backhead.
The scissor action lifts and swings the roof back from the steam dome as it opens. By design, the maximum opening occurs when one of the scissor arms is vertical. The small swing link at the rear of the roof is parallel to the roof line at this inflection point. From this point, you can lower the roof slightly in a propped open position caused by the scissor arm pressing on the roof, or you can swing the link in the other direction to close the roof.
Any thoughts? Are there simpler ways to achieve the same result? A simple pivot from the forward corner would let the roof hit the steam dome.
Ed | | | |
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Kovacjr
1st Class Member
Lakewood NJ
Foreman
Posts:372
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| | 09/07/2008 7:16 PM |
| Looks like a great idea to me, I personally cant stand the Accucraft flip to the side or foward hinges that are just wire as they all hit the domes or piping going foward and to the side well dont plan to have another train run next to ya.
I was looking at the rest of the log and I cant belive how fast you are coming along. Looks great. Now with the CNC you should make one of the pumps a water pump. Heh I have 1/8 scale drawings if you want to try of a single. The question is will the bobbin valves workl that small. | |
Jason Kovac
Lakewood, NJ | |
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Chris Scott
1st Class Member
Sonoma, CA
Foreman
Posts:137
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| | 09/07/2008 7:36 PM |
| Ed,
Looks like it works well but has a lot of parts. What about a car hood hinge approach complete with a spring so the roof stays up until the operator "wants" it to fold down. | | | |
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Ed Hume
1st Class Member
Austin TX
Brakeman
Posts:55
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| | 09/08/2008 6:37 AM |
| Hi Jason,
Thanks. The loco already has a water pump - it is unusual in that it is mounted on the frame and driven by the center shaft instead of a truck:
So I don't think I'll be building a second pump, especially not a scaled prototype!
Chris, As far as a car hood lift - I am thinking I would need complex curved hinges that would be hard to fit in the cab and not be seen through the windows.
Yes, there are a lot of pieces to the scissor hinges, but each piece is simple. Also, they will all stay hidden under the roof and above the windows.
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GNSteamer
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| | 09/08/2008 4:54 PM |
| | Excellent design concept but I think it would be difficult to execute in a manner where it would be able to withstand the normal opening and closing cycles during an afternoon steam-up. The rails, slots and pins would be very delicate and difficult to maintain in proper geometry for consistent operation. | | | |
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Chris Scott
1st Class Member
Sonoma, CA
Foreman
Posts:137
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| | 09/08/2008 9:01 PM |
| FWIW... I guess I was thinking of a 50's-60's car hood hinge I remember as much simpler. A knife type hinge with a spring to keep the hood from falling and a stop block limits the hinge's opening to maybe 45(?) degrees. For the loco roof a stop block limits the hinge opening to +/- 90 degrees, though not required a nice additioon would be a counterbalance spring so the hinge cannot close unless you pull at the pivot point. The stop block on a simple knife hinge is a lip on one side that stops the other side's rotation. You could also say the stop block also acts as a kind of latch that holds the hinge open. The loco roof is so lite seems to me the knife hinge would be small; 2 lengths 1/4"-5/16" x ~1/16" x ~2", and that size would be easily concealed. Like the car hood you will need a pivot point on the roof itself at the front corners.
Probably clear as mud but hope it helps. There are a number of other things you could use instead of a spring to keep the hinge from closing while the roofs up. If you want info on some of these email me. | | | |
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steveciambrone
Brakeman
Posts:15
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| | 09/09/2008 9:30 PM |
| I just completed a Salem Steam models Bayer Garrett kit, and used the small rare earth magnets from Radio Shack to retain the roof and tank tops. Holds them tight and easily removable.
Thanks
Steve | | | |
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Kovacjr
1st Class Member
Lakewood NJ
Foreman
Posts:372
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| | 09/10/2008 5:14 AM |
| | My issue of remoavable roofs is when at meets running you always need a polace top put the cab as some people are somewhat careless and lay the roof on adjacent tracks. Not smart with other trains running | |
Jason Kovac
Lakewood, NJ | |
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DKRickman
1st Class Member
Salisbury, NC
Foreman
Posts:376
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| | 09/10/2008 10:34 AM |
| Posted By steveciambrone on 09/09/2008 9:30 PM
I just completed a Salem Steam models Bayer Garrett kit, and used the small rare earth magnets from Radio Shack to retain the roof and tank tops. Holds them tight and easily removable.
Thanks
Steve
Perhaps this is a dumb idea, but what about making the roof completely removable, using magnets as Steve suggests above, but design it such that the roof can be re-attached in the raised position, held securely by the same magnets? Thus, there are no hinges, latches, or any moving parts, and there si less chance of loosing the roof or leaving it on an adjacent track. | |
Kenneth Rickman - krickman1@carolina.rr.com
Salisbury, NC
If at first you don't succeed, use a bigger hammer! | |
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tacfoley
1st Class Member
Conductor
Posts:575
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| | 09/10/2008 10:51 AM |
| Posted By steveciambrone on 09/09/2008 9:30 PM
I just completed a Salem Steam models Bayer Garrett kit, and used the small rare earth magnets from Radio Shack to retain the roof and tank tops. Holds them tight and easily removable.
Thanks
Steve
Please show us your Garrett......
tac | | | |
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steveciambrone
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Posts:15
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| | 09/10/2008 1:01 PM |
| I put my Garrett pics on Flikr account, feel free to post them here. The set says only one pic but there are more, so click on it and see.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/20785520@N02/sets/
Thanks
Steve | | | |
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GNSteamer
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| | 09/10/2008 1:13 PM |
| | Try this, our club the Puget Sound Garden Railway Society Live Steamers commissioned a company to silk screen our club logo onto cotton aprons for our members and as a fundraiser. These cotton aprons are a dark green and have three pockets across the front of it. These pockets are excellent for putting small items like cab roofs, fire starter sticks, rags and the brass tender pump handles common on many of our models. I have an Aster S2 that has a cab roof that slides on and off as well as a platform over the water section of the tender. When I need to access any of these areas I simply pluck it off the locomotive and slip it into one of the pockets. The apron also serves to protect ones clothing from the occasional shot of oily water out of one's stack. | | | |
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DKRickman
1st Class Member
Salisbury, NC
Foreman
Posts:376
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| | 09/10/2008 2:22 PM |
| Posted By steveciambrone on 09/10/2008 1:01 PM I put my Garrett pics on Flikr account, feel free to post them here. The set says only one pic but there are more, so click on it and see. http://www.flickr.com/photos/20785520@N02/sets/ Thanks Steve
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Kenneth Rickman - krickman1@carolina.rr.com
Salisbury, NC
If at first you don't succeed, use a bigger hammer! | |
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Curmudge
Beavering away far from anyone else of consequence who's fooling with these things
Brakeman
Posts:31
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| | 09/10/2008 2:24 PM |
| >>Quote - Excellent design concept but I think it would be difficult to execute in a manner where it would be able to withstand the normal opening and closing cycles during an afternoon steam-up. The rails, slots and pins would be very delicate . . . <<
I don't see how it could be an excellent design concept and yet not be able to do its job. It looks pretty robust to me, certainly as robust as any Ga1 valve gear I've seen and certainly able to deal with a 2lb head. That's the resistive force a 1/4" diam ram pumping against a 40psi WP will have to overcome, making the broad assumption this ram would be as large as 1/4", and if it's set up with a by-pass circuit the resistance would be essentially 0. | | | |
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Ed Hume
1st Class Member
Austin TX
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Posts:55
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| | 09/13/2008 4:23 PM |
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I'm with you Curmudge. I am using 1/8x3/16 brass with 3/32" stainless steel pins. The hinges will be far more durable than what GNSteamer is used to seeing with manufactured locomotives. The cab roof and sides will be made from 1/16" thick brass.
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Semper Vaporo
1st Class Member
Cedar Rapids, Iowa
Engineer
Posts:1536
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| | 09/13/2008 5:56 PM |
| | Lookin' good! :-) | |
 C. T. McCullough
Cedar Rapids, Iowa
Le 18:22
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Curmudge
Beavering away far from anyone else of consequence who's fooling with these things
Brakeman
Posts:31
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| | 09/13/2008 8:30 PM |
| I withdraw my comments above, which were made in response to a post I mistook to be about the water pump rather than the cab roof mechanism, thus they should not have made any contextual sense to anyone.
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