Jerry McColgan
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| 30 Mar 2010 06:40 AM |
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Posted By Ward H on 29 Mar 2010 07:44 PM
Jerry, sounds like you are on a roll. Are you using the 6 capacitor board on your installs? That may solve the stuttering on your uncleaned brass track.
Have you tried the MU function of the Revo? Making and breaking MUd consist is really sweet.
Hi Ward,
Yes I did install the 6 capacitor boards with all the Revolutions. In this case I rebuilt the entire outside layout with stainless steel track and nickel plated turnouts but left the yards (in the garage and crawl space) with their old brass track and turnouts. I cannot really explain it but after rebuilding that layout I've hardly ever used it preferring instead to running the trains in the crawl space layout (that's where most of the trains and layout are). Part of it is that I LOVE to run trains in semi-darkness and I can turn the lights down low in the crawl space and simulate any time of day or night - plus I don't have to concern myself with what the weather is like outside.
In the past I could get by with very dirty tracks on this yard because I mainly ran F-1 ABBA's on it that were all MUed together which gave 32 track contacts per ABBA set. A single E-8 with 12 track contacts understandably has less contact.
I was fortunate when I first thought of building the crawl space layout because it runs under 75% of the house (on plywood suspended from the ceiling). I only have to clean the upper crawl space track once a year (if that) but the lower crawl space yard that feeds the outside layout is down on plywood just above the dirt and it has been several years since I used it other than to park the "outside" trains on it.
Cleaning it will be easy enough. I'll just put the LGB Track Cleaning Loco on it and it is perfect for cleaning track on sidings.
I have not tried MUing anything with the Revolution yet but that is a GREAT idea because I did not think to MU the two E-8's together. That would have doubled their track contact and probably solved the dirty track problem - at least until I get around to cleaning the track.
Thanks,
Jerry
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Jerry McColgan
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| 30 Mar 2010 06:59 AM |
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Posted By ORD23 on 29 Mar 2010 08:08 PM
I too have purchased the Revo and a six pack of recievers. I have yet to put in any recievers as I am bashing a few engines and have not come around to it yet. I do have a USA engine or two that I wanted to put recievers in. Have you or your friends tried that yet. Aristo sells a couple of boards that make it easier to hook up the Revo recievers to but I haven't researched which board is the one I need/want. I was going to tell you that Aristo had a bunch of "How to's" on their site but I see you already found it. Will be looking forward to future posts on the Revo, thanks and keep it up.
Ed
Hi Ed,
Stay tuned because I will soon be installing a Revolution along with a sound system (either Aristo or Sierra Soundtraxx) into a USAT GP-38.
Item Code Description 1 List
CRE57000 TRAIN ENGINEER 2.4 GHZ 300.00
CRE57001 TRAIN ENGINEER 2.4 GHZ TX 200.00
CRE57002 TRAIN ENG. 2.4 GHZ RX 116.00
CRE57003 TRAIN ENG 2.4 GHZ RX (6PK) 575.00
CRE57072 G SMOKE BOARD 6 PACK 100.00
CRE57073 G SMOKE BOARD 22.50
CRE57074 RCC R/C ACCESS LIGHT SOUND 86.00
CRE57075 RCC-RC 5 WAY SWITCH 81.00
CRE57076 CAPACITOR BOARD FOR G 25.00
CRE57077 NON PLUG N' PLAY BOARD 25.00
CRE57078 NON PLUG N' PLAY BOARD AC 30.00
CRE57079 BRIDGE RECITIFIER BOARD 5.00
CRE57080 TX BATTERY NICAD BATTERY & CHG 25.00
CRE57086 CAPACITOR BOARD FOR HO 20.00
CRE57088 6 PIN ACCESSORY PLUG 6.00
CRE57089 EXT. BUTTON CORD 6.00
The board you need (CRE57077 NON PLUG N' PLAY BOARD 25.00) is probably included in the Revolution Receiver package (for non-Plug n Play installations). Optionally there are two other choices -
CRE57079 BRIDGE RECITIFIER BOARD 5.00
will give you DC output voltage
CRE57078 NON PLUG N' PLAY BOARD AC 30.00
includes the rectifier circuit for non-Plug n Play locos
I am aware of the Aristo board but I started on these projects when the Revolution first came out so I am progressing more based on my experiences than on anything on the boards (I'll look to the boards if I run into any special problems - thanks for reminding me).
Please bear in mind that I can only report my results and I am not qualified to say how well my results may work out with someone else's installations.
Jerry |
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Jerry McColgan
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| 30 Mar 2010 07:07 AM |
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Posted By Greg Elmassian on 29 Mar 2010 08:10 PM
Or make your own cap boards.
Jerry, be aware of the 25 volt limit on the cap board (of course 24v max is what is recommended by Aristo to the TE)
Regards, Greg
Hi Greg,
That is a good point to make.
In my case I have an even lower maximum voltage to live with in that aside from the E-8's and GP-40 most of my Aristo locos (mainly FA-1/FB-1's) are older models without Plug N Play and ALL my Heavyweights and Streamliners have the 18 volt incandescent lights.
As a result I always run with a throttle set to 18 volts or less. My LGB locos might need more than 18 volts but at least for now I run them mostly on analog track power or under MTS/DCC.
Thanks,
Jerry |
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Jerry McColgan
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| 30 Mar 2010 07:19 AM |
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Posted By Stan Cedarleaf on 29 Mar 2010 08:12 PM
Jerry, if you use the Sierra adapter board with the Sierra diesel modules, they will work better. The Sierra doesn't like PWM or PWC for running. The adapter board isolates the PWC and it works right nicely. It's not an issue with the Steam modules as the speed is controlled with isolated reed switches. The diesel relies on voltage control from the motors to control speed.
I believe Dave Bodner has a fix for it on his website as well.  
Hi Stan,
I've got a few of the Sierra adapter boards but since they need to be assembled (soldered) I've been procrastinating about doing anything with them. I finally decided "the heck with it" and tried installing a Sierra system without the adapter board just to see what happened and I cannot hear any difference between Sierra Soundtraxx sound systems in an E-8 on track power and in an E-8 with a Revolution (without the adapter board but with the Bridge Rectifier Board - I did not try it without the rectifier board).
In both cases they were not running EMD sounds and ramp up increments were not very noticeable. My thought is/was to go back and install the Sierra adapter boards when I eventually get them assembled.
Are you aware of any potential damage PWC/PWM might do to the Sierra boards or if it is mainly a quality of sound issue?
Also do you have Dave's website address?
Between winter and a diagnosis of diabetes several months ago I've been distracted from running trains these past months.
Thanks,
Jerry
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Jerry McColgan
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| 30 Mar 2010 07:49 AM |
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Posted By Ward H on 29 Mar 2010 08:32 PM
Ed, if you are handy with soldering, just use the mounting board that comes receiver. Just a little more work to install than the board with screw terminals but it does the job.
Hi Ward and Ed,
In my previous life (pre-retirement) I was a Factory Sales Representative for 3M Electrical Products. One of my VERY favorite product lines to sell was the 3M IDC (Insulation Displacement Connector) line (many people refer to them as "suitcase connectors").
Speaking as a fellow hobbyist (and NOT as a 3M representative) I can say that I have used them in a tremendous assortment of applications they were NEVER designed or tested for from radio control airplanes to model trains to train layout wiring. I have never once had one of these connectors fail in any application. Since this is outside their intended purposes I could not recommend them for purposes that exceed 3M's recommendations but...
Are all that I ever use to install my sound systems and I never seem to need a soldering iron. The difference between the UY and UY2 and the UR and UR2 is the thickness of the wires they accept. These connectors were designed and intended for installing telephone systems and 3M certainly never tested them for installation in model train sound systems.
I have been out of touch with 3M Electrical Products now for over 10 years but I would be surprised if they are not still available from any telephone supply store and the larger connectors can usually be found at electrical distributors. Radio Shack carries many of them but at much higher prices because of the small quantities in their packages.
Granted they are much bulkier than a simple solder connection but inside a diesel locomotive shell there is plenty of free space and for me quick and easy beats the heck out of a hot soldering iron in tight places.
I have literally used THOUSANDS of these connectors on my trains and layouts. They take about half a second to crimp. Granted some of my old distributors will sell them to me at close to their cost but if I had to pay retail prices I would still use them.
Jerry
Note: Since testing costs money and telephone companies tend to only use solid wire the 3M telephone connectors are only tested and approved for use with solid wires. I use them far more for stranded wire applications than for solid wires but understandably I cannot recommend that others do so. |
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Jerry McColgan
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| 30 Mar 2010 04:13 PM |
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Another day gone and not a lot to show for it.
I did follow up on the suggestion to MU the two ATSF E-8's - both to try running them together and to make it easier to park them on the siding with the dirty track.
When I MUed them the first thing I noticed was that sound came from both E-8's but the bell and horn only worked on one. I remembered that I had forgotten to connect the ground wire to the Sierra sound board so I opened that E-8, tapped into the ground lead (with a 3M UG connector) and connected it to the sound board ground.
Then I MUed them together again but still no horn and whistle from the 2nd E-8.
Then it dawned on me that I was MUing the motors and the sound board but obviously I was NOT MUing the bell and horn controls. That left me with two choices:
1. I could simply select the lead loco and use only its bell and horn or
2. I could MU them together as the SAME LOCO ID rather than with different loco numbers. Then both bells and horns would work.
I chose to leave them the way they are with separate ID numbers and only run the bell and horn from the lead loco. I don't quite understand why CAB 3 can be MUed with CAB 4 and also CAB 4 can be MUed with CAB 3. I would have thought there would only be one option but perhaps it is so that an A unit could be run alone or with a B unit but a B unit could not be run without an A unit.
Next I put the two E-8's back on the lower yard siding but this time I MUed them together and I then had no problem driving them to their siding and parking them. 12 track contacts instead of 6 made ALL the difference.
I then got out one of the Sierra RC Adapter Boards and assembled it because I was concerned that I might damage the sound board without it. Before going further I telephoned Soundtraxx and talked to their engineer who assured me that I would not damage their board but I might not get the full ramp up and down sound from a diesel sound board without the adapter. For the moment the sound is good enough for me so I will continue my installations without the RC adapter boards (they are out of production and I don't have enough of them anyway).
I will use the adapter board I built to test other Sierra sound boards before installing them with the Revolution to see if there is a major difference with any of the sound boards and I may selectively install a few of the adapters.
Now the challenge (for me) is to figure out how many sound units I have available and how to get the best use out of them. The F-1 ABBA's which now have sound boards in each unit will probably end up with sound boards just in the "A" units. I wish I had more of the old Aristo sound boards as they seem to be working very well even if I am putting ALCO sounds into EMD locomotives.
Jerry |
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Stan Cedarleaf
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| 30 Mar 2010 04:36 PM |
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Posted By Jerry McColgan on 30 Mar 2010 07:19 AM
Hi Stan,
Are you aware of any potential damage PWC/PWM might do to the Sierra boards or if it is mainly a quality of sound issue?
Also do you have Dave's website address?
Between winter and a diagnosis of diabetes several months ago I've been distracted from running trains these past months.
Hi Jerry... sorry that I didn't get back to you on your question. I had an early breakfast meeting today, didn't get a chance to read all the posts and just got back into the 'puter.....
I'm glad you were able to talk with the folks in Durango who confirmed that there would be no damage to the board but as noted, you don't get the ramping effect. You will get ramping if you put the adapter board inline as suggested in the manual. You might want to adjust the RPM sensitivtiy in programming step #2 to medium. You can play with the 3 steps to see which you like the best.
Sorry to hear of your medical ills. Tain't fun...
Dave..... the Lazy Susan train is a hoot... |
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Dewey, AZ
Cedarleaf Custom Railroad Decals
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dbodnar
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| 30 Mar 2010 04:38 PM |
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Jerry - I believe that you may not have used the "*" key on the Revolution's transmitter to select the accessories in the 2nd locomotive in the consist. Here are some notes from a presentation I gave at the ECLSTS last fall.
•While operating a consist you can assess each individual locomotive’s accessory functions by pressing the “*” key
•Each locomotive’s name will appear at the top of the screen as “*” is pressed
•Use the 1-6 keys to operate sounds, smoke and other functions
I hope that helps.
dave |
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Dave Bodnar
email: info@trainelectronics.com
web page:
http://www.trainelectronics.com
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Stan Cedarleaf
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| 30 Mar 2010 04:49 PM |
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Jerry, I was just composing a post for you to select each different locomitive in a particular consist and I see Dave just posted the solution.
When running a consist of a number of locomotives, each one has been put into the MU-"#". If you have 2 locomotives in the consist, they will operate as one locomotive for speed and direction. If you push the "bell" button, the first locomotive in the consist will react. Push the horn/whistle button and the horn/whistle will sound.
If you want to control the bell and horn/whistle in the other locomotive in the consist, push the "*" key and now that locomotive will show in the screen and you will control it's sounds. Speed and direction are still controlling both locomotives.
To return to the sound control of locomotive #1, just press the "*" key again. |
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Dewey, AZ
Cedarleaf Custom Railroad Decals
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Jerry McColgan
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| 31 Mar 2010 07:10 AM |
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Hi Dave and Stan,
Thank you for your responses. It will take me awhile to sort everything out and figure how best to get the rest of the Revolution installations done but hopefully the day will come before too long when everything will be installed, up and running.
I appreciate the suggestions and I will be following up on Dave's website.
Jerry |
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Ward H
Passenger
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| 31 Mar 2010 06:37 PM |
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Jerry,
Thanks for the info on the connectors. I have seen them in Lowe's I believe. I will pick some up to try next time I have a wiring project.
To add to what Stan and Dave already posted, using the "*" button to bring a different loco up on the screen also allows you to turn on and off the headlight of the trailing units.
That crawl space layout sounds neat. I have a nice dry crawl space under half our house. I have been wanting to use it for storage yards but the wifey is afraid I will be giving rodents a way to get inside. Like you, I like to run trains during dusk or in the dark with lots of lights. Sometimes when I have them running I leave them running until I go to bed just so I can occasionally go to the window and watch them running in the dark.
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Jerry McColgan
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| 01 Apr 2010 07:16 AM |
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Posted By Ward H on 31 Mar 2010 06:37 PM
Jerry,
Thanks for the info on the connectors. I have seen them in Lowe's I believe. I will pick some up to try next time I have a wiring project.
To add to what Stan and Dave already posted, using the "*" button to bring a different loco up on the screen also allows you to turn on and off the headlight of the trailing units.
That crawl space layout sounds neat. I have a nice dry crawl space under half our house. I have been wanting to use it for storage yards but the wifey is afraid I will be giving rodents a way to get inside. Like you, I like to run trains during dusk or in the dark with lots of lights. Sometimes when I have them running I leave them running until I go to bed just so I can occasionally go to the window and watch them running in the dark.
Hi Ward,
People who live on flat land probably wonder how a layout could be built in a crawl space. Our house is on the side of a steep hill (no basement) so the crawl space extends under about 3/4 of the house and is from 12' to 5' high. I hung around 40 - 50 sheets of plywood from the ceiling, made it strong enough to support my 300+ lbs and step by step built a layout on it that is suspended 4' below the ceiling. It is perfectly flat and has turned out to be a fantastic place to have a layout.
I never would have thought of it except for running out of space in the garage (wife rules) and the outside layout being limited by our circular driveway.
The outside access is blocked with a wood door but with a garage door there is no perfect way to keep rodents etc. outside. I keep poison, traps and sticky pads around to control the problem but I live in a rural area surrounded by woods so the critters will find a way in no matter what we do. The important thing is that the crawl space represents FREE space to build a layout.
My memory has gotten so bad that I have to read things several times before it sinks in. Eventually I will use the Revolution enough that I will remember what the functions are.
With the 3M connectors the thing to be careful of is to assure that the crimp is straight up and down with no sideways movement. This is pretty easy to do with the telephone (communications) connectors but a little more difficult with the larger connectors. I use the 3M tools to install mine but most contractors used their existing tools.
I actually sold more of these connectors than any other sales rep in the USA (literally millions) - probably because I found so many personal and unique uses for them. You probably already have a dozen or more (out of sight) in your home either in your telephone wiring or in table lamps etc.
Thanks,
Jerry |
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Jerry McColgan
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| 06 Apr 2010 06:51 AM |
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I noticed the following on the Aristo Forum:
I checked the 6 cap board. Those caps are 35volt 2200uF. (Single caps are 25volt, 3300uF)
and
Our Revolution system is not tolerant of more than 24 volts, nor is the capacitor. We can't control what power system you're using, but please check the output first.
Apparently there have been failures of the single capacitor (possibly damaging the Revolution receiver) when non-Aristo power supplies that put out more than 24 volts are used (such as LGB power supplies). I know that I have measured the output of my Bridgewerks MAG-15 at 29 volts so that is a non-starter with the Revolution. I like my LGB and Bridgewerks power supplies and I am not trashing them. As a matter of fact (in addition to Aristo power supplies) I do use both Bridgewerks and LGB power supplies with the Revolution but they are throttled down to around 18 volts to keep from burning out the 18 volt lights in my older Heavyweights and Streamliners.
Caution should be used to assure that track voltage NEVER exceeds 24 volts.
Jerry. |
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Jerry McColgan
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| 06 Apr 2010 07:15 AM |
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As an update, I have decided to scale back some of my planned Revolution installations - at least until Dallee sound units are back in stock.
Any Aristo locos with the plug n play interface (E-8's and GP-40) already have the Revolution installed. The older Aristo (PH Hobbies) digital sound systems seem to work well with the Revolution but non-Aristo sound systems will first have to be tested with the Revolution to assure that they work properly. Sierra used to make an adapter board (discussed previously) and I've assembled 3 of them but with no more available I will have to exercise caution as I have more Sierra sound systems than I have adapter boards.
Additionally I've been rethinking my plans in that I have at least three F-1 ABBA's and that would amount to a lot of work to retrofit them and their sound systems to the Revolution. I may instead just leave them as they are and continue to use them with the regular Train Engineer.
Part of the reason is that unlike MTS/DCC when I have locos parked on hard to reach sidings I park the ABBA's as sets and since they are all MUed together I have 32 track contacts (8 per loco) to assure that they run no matter how dirty the track is. None of these locos have plug n play interfaces. If they did I would go ahead and put Revolutions in them.
The truth is that I've been overwhelmed with too many projects. Eventually I may return to the idea of putting Revolutions in them but not at this time.
You could say that Aristo locos were too good for my plans because with a LGB ABBA only the two A units have motors so a MUed LGB ABBA only has to link two locos. With Aristo F-1's both A and B units have motors and mine all have traction tires (which I love) so linking 4 F-1's is much more dependent on everything working properly than linking 2 F7's in a LGB ABBA set.
I also sometimes need full throttle to power a F-1 ABBA pulling 11 lighted Streamliners and with a Bridgewerks power supply I can see a possibility of accidentally exceeding the 24 volt maximum of the Revolutions. This is probably partially due to only having a single track contact from the power supply to the entire layout and not using any clamps (just rail joiners).
As I gain more experience with the Revolutions I may rethink my plans.
Jerry
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TonyWalsham
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| 06 Apr 2010 07:34 AM |
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Hey Jerry.
I make an adapter board for the Sierra. The #SSI-12v5. It supplies a regulated 12 volts to the sound and controls motor direction and speed with an opto to convert pwm to filtered DC.
They are made up ready to go. |
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Best wishes,
Tony Walsham
Remote Control Systems. www.rcs-rc.com/
 Modern technology. Old Fashioned reliability |
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Jerry McColgan
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| 06 Apr 2010 09:15 AM |
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Posted By TonyWalsham on 06 Apr 2010 07:34 AM
Hey Jerry.
I make an adapter board for the Sierra. The #SSI-12v5. It supplies a regulated 12 volts to the sound and controls motor direction and speed with an opto to convert pwm to filtered DC.
They are made up ready to go.
Hi Tony,
I was not aware of that. It is good information to have. I may need some a bit further in the future.
Thanks,
Jerry |
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Loco Lee
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| 06 Apr 2010 09:45 PM |
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The QSI will handel up to 32 volts, and has regulated throtle control, wich is perfect for MUing locos.
Loco Lee |
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Jerry McColgan
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| 07 Apr 2010 07:09 AM |
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In my particular applications MUing can be VERY challenging.
As I work on getting my main outside layout up and running again there are multiple challenges both for me and for MUing my locos.
1. The storage yard brass track had not been cleaned in a very long time. Even two new MUed locos did not run well on it.
2. The yard is inside and I have to drive the trains through a hole in the house's cinder block and brick walls and then through a screened porch (I cannot see from inside to outside or from outside to inside). I have a remote camera but it has a limited view. I drive the trains outside with power from a LGB Jumbo with a LGB Tethered Remote. Once outside I disconnect the LGB power supply and switch to a different power supply or multiple power supplies. When done I drive the trains back inside where once again I switch to the crawl space LGB Jumbo power supply.
3. Once I got the train out of the porch (via remote opening doors) the train has to proceed down (and on return up) a 10% grade between the level of the outside layout and the inside yard. This is very steep and when pulling 12 lighted Streamliners with a F-1 ABBA the current demand is high and the pull on those heavy Streamliners is VERY extreme. The F-1 ABBA's handle it easily but without traction tires it would be questionable.
4. My older Aristo FA/V-1's have traction tires which I love but they do reduce track contact. Since Aristo does not use shoes/sliders a single FA-1 with traction tires has limited track contact.
5. These FA/B-1's were not factory MUed - I rewired them for MUing right after I bought them. They also not only do not have the Revolution interface but additionally the motor wiring is not isolated from the track wiring so to install a Revolution or other control system would require rewiring each loco.
6. The pollen level is currently very high and the tracks are coated daily with a green powder (pollen?) from the trees which further lowers track conductivity.
7. Because of the tremendous grip of the traction tires my concern regarding momentary lapses in remote control of any loco in the MUed consist is greatly magnified. If a single MUed FA/B-1 hesitates and its drivers stop while 3 other FA/B-1's keep turning the stress on the motor blocks would be extreme and could cause significant wear and or damage. There are 8 motors driving 32 wheels in the ABBAs and they all need to be turning in sync all the time regardless of track contact or conditions.
For this application I feel much more confident running under track power. The amps and voltage drawn exceed the output capacity of a regular Train Engineer or the other remote controls I have used.
Before anyone suggests battery power I should mention that the F-1 ABBA with 12 lighted Streamliners plus 4 sound systems draws up to 10 amps at up to 20+ volts. It would take a lot of batteries to handle that which would be very expensive, very complicated to rewire everything and almost impossible to install in trailing Streamliners plus batteries in Streamliners would be useless when pulling a freight train. Additionally the cost would be tripled to handle three F-1 ABBA's. Sometimes track power with a tethered remote trumps all others.
If I had new FA/B-1's with the Revolution interface I would go ahead and install the Revolution receivers in them.
Jerry |
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Jerry McColgan
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| 07 Apr 2010 07:22 AM |
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I had tried installing older Aristo/PH Hobbies sound systems in locos with the Revolution. At first everything worked great so then I decided to wire the bell and horn to the Revolution receiver.
The problem came up in that the Aristo/PH Hobbies sound systems were designed for track magnets (or auto operation) and the reed switch wiring for the bell and horn DO NOT have a common side. I assumed that I could use a common with the bell and horn but when I tried it I blew the sound system. It is possible that I did something else that blew the sound board but I believe it was using a common from the Revolution receiver that caused the failure.
I am mentioning this in case anyone else may be considering using the older Aristo digital sound systems with the Revolution. It appears that they will work but only if the bell and horn are left on automatic.
In my case I am probably going to buy the Dallee sound systems that are designed for use with the Revolution and keep on using those older Aristo sound systems in locos running on track power. There may be better sound systems out there but I want to keep my costs to a minimum.
Jerry |
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Ward H
Passenger
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| 07 Apr 2010 11:45 AM |
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Hi Jerry,
Just a note on the 25 volt cap blowing. I had originally posted that it took out the Revo's RX board. I was wrong. Something funny is happening on the Railtrucks circuit board making the Revo act weird. I wired the motors direct to the RX and the board works well now.
I understand your MUing issue much better after your detailed post. In my post about MUing I was actually talking about the MUing feature in the Revo, not connecting the track pickups of each unit.
I wonder if each unit had it's own Revo RX w/6 cap board, the caps would carry them over the dirty spots better than straight track power? What I have noticed is some locos with poor power pick ups sputtered more on dirty track but with the RX w/ 6 cap board, they just slowed slightly on dirty track. Tha cap board smoothed out the sputtering. Of course, that is a lot more wiring and expense, like you said. |
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Jerry McColgan
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| 08 Apr 2010 06:49 AM |
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Hi Ward,
Thank you for the correction regarding the capacitor board. I had repeated what I had read - this is a good example of how information posted or quoted may not be accurate regardless of the intentions of the person who posted it.
I have also had a few instances with the Revolution equipped locos not running quite as smoothly as I expected but I suspect the reason is related to non-Aristo-Craft power supplies and other reasons I am working on identifying.
In my case I am working on a balance (based on what is important to me) between easy single loco installations and locos that may involve more work than I am willing to do. Part of this is because I try to keep everything as close to factory original for the time when I eventually have to sell everything (none of us stay healthy and live forever).
Jerry |
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Greg Elmassian
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| 08 Apr 2010 09:51 AM |
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Ward, I may have bad information on my site.
Can you do me a favor and shoot a picture of the side of the cap board that shows the voltage? I forgot to shoot the one I had for evaluation, and then someone reported to me, and also on the Aristo board, that the caps in the cap board were the same as the single 25v cap that now comes with the Revo.
Like to get the right info on my site. (can't believe I took 2 pictures of that dang board, both on the "wrong side")
Regards, Greg |
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Be sure to visit my site, lots of technical tips and modifications, and you can search for topics and key words.
Click here for Greg's web site
Note: I'm tired of the acrimony too, so I may not respond or participate in these types of threads. You can email me privately so I can help you without conflict.
PLEASE NOTE: I have disabled Private Messaging, please use regular email: greg@elmassian.com
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krs
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| 08 Apr 2010 10:17 AM |
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I was just ointed to this site from another forum.
Does anyone have the schematic how the single 25-volt cap connects to 24 volt power?
In all my years as an ielectronic designer of communication equipment nobody would have used a 25-volt capacitor in a 24-volt circuit unless the maximum voltage the capacitor could possibly "see" was a lot less than 24 volts.
I wonder why Aristo thought they could use a 25-volt cap here but uses 35-volt caps on their capacitor boards. |
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krs
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| 08 Apr 2010 10:21 AM |
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Posted By Ward H on 07 Apr 2010 11:45 AM
Just a note on the 25 volt cap blowing. I had originally posted that it took out the Revo's RX board. I was wrong. Something funny is happening on the Railtrucks circuit board making the Revo act weird. I wired the motors direct to the RX and the board works well now.
Ward - I would suggest you post a correction on the Aristoforum. Your post of three days ago is still the last one there and leaves the impression there is a potential serious problem. Knut
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Jerry McColgan
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| 08 Apr 2010 10:27 AM |
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Posted By Greg Elmassian on 08 Apr 2010 09:51 AM
Ward, I may have bad information on my site.
Can you do me a favor and shoot a picture of the side of the cap board that shows the voltage? I forgot to shoot the one I had for evaluation, and then someone reported to me, and also on the Aristo board, that the caps in the cap board were the same as the single 25v cap that now comes with the Revo.
Like to get the right info on my site. (can't believe I took 2 pictures of that dang board, both on the "wrong side")
Regards, Greg
Hii Greg,
I will post some photos later but I know that the single cap boards I have are marked 25V and the six cap boards I have are marked 35V. Some of the caps are blue and some are black but so far all have the markings of 25V for single and 35V for six.
Regards,
Jerry
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