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Power Supply for NCE Power Pro 10-R
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vg3616084
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Posts:25
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| 09 Jan 2010 06:54 PM |
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I am needing some help with a purchase I am about to make. I have on order the NCE Power Pro 10-R (no boosters at this time) and am waiting to purchased the correct power supply input for the unite. Here is what I have and here is what I'm doing.
I have two lines, first line is over 400 feet with the second line at 250 feet. These interchange at a double cross over. This layout will be expanded in two more phases. Next phase being a double main line: with about 500 combined trackage, and for the last phase being based on the Caldoor yards (due to have 6 shays). All these lines will interchange with each other. I run two different setups: modern diesels and narrow gauge steam. My plan is to have family and friends over for operations.
My family and I also have a modular layout (it can be seen in the HAGR pics from last year in the Large Scale Events forum), that I would like to use DCC on. (Its the one with hand-laid track from Oklahoma)
So, here are my thoughts, I need to purchase a large power supply that would run 10amps on the first line (running multi Dash-9s and 45s), a 5 amp booster for the second line (all narrow gauge and smaller locos), and a 5 amp booster for my yard area, (that will be completed this spring (about 10ft deep and 25ft long)). Am I thinking the right way? I live in an area that no one use DCC in G-gauge, so I'm not sure I am doing this right!
I was hoping I could use other power-supplies and boosters for the future lines, not sure that will even work.
Please Help.
I was thinking about getting a Bridgewerks power supply, but don't know if I am going down the right path. If Bridgewerks is the way to go, I was wondering whats the best one to go with.
Please advise if I am even thinking correctly, and what I need.
Thx, Vernon G. Broken Arrow, OK
28 and lost in BA
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Greg Elmassian
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Posts:14817
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| 09 Jan 2010 07:14 PM |
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I use the NCE system. 1st: get all 10 amp boosters. You can go over 5 amps easy. Lighted cars can draw almost an amp! Having all your boosters the same model will help debugging problems, and will give you extra capacity. I'm personally looking at possibly going 15 amp boosters. 2nd: You will get the best results from a regulated supply. A Bridgewerks is NOT a regulated supply, and the "pure DC" (whatever that is) is wasted on a DCC layout, get some inexpensive 10-11 amp power supplies. Read my site, $80 for a quality switching supply. 3rd: Read my site on NCE, and voltages and tips on the NCE. Regards, Greg
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Be sure to visit my site, lots of technical tips and modifications, and you can search for topics and key words.
Click here for Greg's web site
Note: I'm tired of the acrimony too, so I may not respond or participate in these types of threads. You can email me privately so I can help you without conflict.
PLEASE NOTE: I have disabled Private Messaging, please use regular email: greg@elmassian.com
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vg3616084
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Posts:25
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| 09 Jan 2010 07:48 PM |
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Greg,
First let me say thanks for helping me with this.
Couple questions:
1) How does the Meanwell S-430-27 work? Still new to all this, easy to hookup? Regulated, does this power-supply do this by itself or what? I checked the pics and looked on line for specs but everything went over my head. (Thats why I have gone with QSI, true plug and play)
2) The boosters somehow tie back to the main NCE unit, and I can purchase a power-supply for each one. Do I have to have repeaters for this?
3) I found NCE makes on 10amp booster, didn't know about 15amp stuff, please explain this.
4) My local guy (HO) said to get a PSX-ON-AR OnGuard-AR from Digitrax (a circuit breaker) for this, true, more insight.
Thx Again!
Vernon G.
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Greg Elmassian
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Posts:14817
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| 09 Jan 2010 07:59 PM |
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1. Yes, regulated supples have internal circuitry to regulate output voltage, there's a feedback circuit that does this. Easy to hook up, 3 connections for 110v (neutral, hot, ground) to a plug, and 2 connections for DC output, no fuss no muss. 2. You supply the power input separately to each one. They communicate with each other with plug in cables which have phone type jacks, the cables are included. Easy to get more, they are pretty much 6 wire phone cords. No repeaters needed unless you run hundreds of feet between them. 3. NCE's biggest booster is 10 amp. It's sufficient for 99% of the people I know. I run 50 car trains with up to 6 locos on them up 3.4% grades. You should be fine! 4. The PSX series are made by a different company, DCC specialties. They make various models, they are mostly circuit breakers (there is one in the booster already). I use their auto-reverser, PSX-AR for my reversing loops, they are the best in my opinion. You don't need additional circuit breakers at first. If you have huge power requirements, and need to break up the mainlines in multiple "power districts" you might need them. Right now I am running my entire layout from one booster, but will have 3, 1 for each mainline and one for the switchyard, which might have 10 locos in it at any one time. I like to run a lot of locos!
Regards, Greg
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Be sure to visit my site, lots of technical tips and modifications, and you can search for topics and key words.
Click here for Greg's web site
Note: I'm tired of the acrimony too, so I may not respond or participate in these types of threads. You can email me privately so I can help you without conflict.
PLEASE NOTE: I have disabled Private Messaging, please use regular email: greg@elmassian.com
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vg3616084
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Posts:25
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| 29 Jan 2010 12:19 PM |
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Greg,
With the ice & snow storm here in Oklahoma (and the NCE Unit and the Mean Well Unit(s) being delivered) I thought I would stay home and have some fun inside on a test track.
I read the specs on the Mean Well unite, and I can't find were I put the 110 volts in and which are the DC out puts.
I have +V, -V, some crazy symbol, N, and L.
I have been ready all your stuff on your website, I'm going to move on to adjusting the voltage out put. So I'll be ready once I get the Power Supply up and running.
Thanks for your help!
V |
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lownote
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Posts:3142
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| 29 Jan 2010 01:57 PM |
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N is neutral, L is live, the crazy symbol is ground. If you have a three wire plug, with a three prong plug on one end and nothing on the other, the white wire goes to "N", the Black wire goes to "L", and the bare or green wire goes to the crazy symbol. "V+" and "V-" are the voltage outputs for DC power. One wire goes to plus the other to minus, and then they go into the respective sockets on the NCE booster. I have exactly the rig you are using. The output voltage on the meanwell can be adjusted by using the small white plastic trimpot that's next to the green power on led. Put the probes of a multimeter on V+ and V-, and set the multimeter to 200 v dc Turn the trimpot gently and you'll see the voltage change. Mine is set to 23 volts, which puts 21 volts on the track
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Evading the Midas touch of expertise
http://chnm.gmu.edu/courses/magic/westover/ |
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vg3616084
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Posts:25
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| 29 Jan 2010 02:54 PM |
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Lownote,
Thanks! I will finish that now.
1 last question, then I hope to be up and running. On the NCE unit, I have everything hooked up per the diagram, but can not find out anything on how the wireless part hooks up. I'm guessing it goes where the procab would go in if I had a wired throttle on the command station and "Bus" on the wireless RB02? Right?
I've read and read, its crazy and somewhat confusing.
Thx,
V |
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TonyWalsham
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Posts:2172
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| 29 Jan 2010 02:56 PM |
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If you don't know what the mains supply symbols mean, don't touch what should only be handled by a licensed electrician.
Mains voltage electricity can kill you. |
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Best wishes,
Tony Walsham
Remote Control Systems. www.rcs-rc.com/
 Modern technology. Old Fashioned reliability |
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Greg Elmassian
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Posts:14817
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| 29 Jan 2010 04:25 PM |
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And don't do it in the shower, ha ha!
Regards, Greg |
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Be sure to visit my site, lots of technical tips and modifications, and you can search for topics and key words.
Click here for Greg's web site
Note: I'm tired of the acrimony too, so I may not respond or participate in these types of threads. You can email me privately so I can help you without conflict.
PLEASE NOTE: I have disabled Private Messaging, please use regular email: greg@elmassian.com
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SteveC
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Posts:4573
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| 29 Jan 2010 06:28 PM |
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That crazy symbol, earth ground, usually the wire with green insulation in the power cord (i.e. in the U.S.A.).
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lownote
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Posts:3142
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| 29 Jan 2010 09:01 PM |
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As I remember, yes, you just plug the radio base station into the socket you would have used for the wireless cab |
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Evading the Midas touch of expertise
http://chnm.gmu.edu/courses/magic/westover/ |
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Greg Elmassian
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Posts:14817
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| 29 Jan 2010 10:14 PM |
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Posted By lownote on 29 Jan 2010 09:01 PM
As I remember, yes, you just plug the radio base station into the socket you would have used for the wired cab
You can add a splitter to the cab buss socket if you want to run wired and wireless. Regards, Greg
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Be sure to visit my site, lots of technical tips and modifications, and you can search for topics and key words.
Click here for Greg's web site
Note: I'm tired of the acrimony too, so I may not respond or participate in these types of threads. You can email me privately so I can help you without conflict.
PLEASE NOTE: I have disabled Private Messaging, please use regular email: greg@elmassian.com
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vg3616084
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Posts:25
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| 31 Jan 2010 08:02 PM |
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I am up and running and having so much fun (been running all day)! Thanks to Greg for his help and a BIG thanks to lownote for all the behind the scenes work he helped me with!!!!
Thx,
Vernon |
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Greg Elmassian
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Posts:14817
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| 31 Jan 2010 10:08 PM |
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Yep, lownote is pretty much a wiz! On thing that happens once in a while (usually a weird power glitch) is that the radio base station sometimes changes layout address.
When that happens, it looks like every thing associated with the radio system is dead. It's just that the base station is on a different layout id that your throttle. The steps to reset it, and some other tips are on my site: The section is called "radio system just quits"... Regards, Greg
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Be sure to visit my site, lots of technical tips and modifications, and you can search for topics and key words.
Click here for Greg's web site
Note: I'm tired of the acrimony too, so I may not respond or participate in these types of threads. You can email me privately so I can help you without conflict.
PLEASE NOTE: I have disabled Private Messaging, please use regular email: greg@elmassian.com
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