David BaileyK27
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| 06 May 2012 03:04 AM |
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Funney how you do not see your spelling mistakes until after you have uploaded the post, it should be "sharp" and not shrap and "grabbing" and not grabbibg.
I have not got used to my new glasses.
David Bailey |
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HMeinhold
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| 06 May 2012 08:43 AM |
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Ralph, can you elude on the difference between the "easyflow" composition with 45% silver and your solder, which seems to melt at the same temperature? Is it as "easy" flowing as the classic? I use this from McMaster: Talking about small drill bits and brass. I had a similar experience as Amber. When I drilled small holes for the rivets of my Guinness loco, they broke before exiting the hole. After I used cutting fluid, all was well.
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Henner
Donkey Doctor East Devils Hill Lumber Co. |
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Amber
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| 06 May 2012 10:27 AM |
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Yes, interestingly enough, both times the tip of the drill bit broke off, it was before the hole was all the way through. There's a cone shaped bump on the back side of the brass strip where the bit was going through the brass. I wonder if the type of drill bit has anything to do with where it breaks when it breaks? I think this drill bit is just high speed steel, nothing fancy.
As for sharpening the bit, I'm not really all that good at it. The bit never cuts quite as well as it did when new, probably the angles on the tip after grinding them. I reground the #43 bit with less angle on the tip, hoping that it would be a little less "grabby", it might have helped a little, maybe. When I break a drill bit, if there's enough left to sharpen, I usually grind the tip flat first, and then grind the angles. That usually gets rid of the broken area on the side of the bit, unless it's bad. Those bits are really hard to resharpen. I keep saying that I'm going to get one of those drill bit sharpening machines, but I haven't yet. I'd certainly have enough use for one, considering what I do to drill bits with a hand drill. :-)
I think this 15% silver rod is supposed to melt at about 1150 degrees F, if I remember correctly. It melts easily enough with my oxy-propane torch, but then, so does brass. :-) |
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ralphbrades
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| 06 May 2012 11:22 AM |
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Henner,
Does somebody else need new glasses(?) Silver-Flo-24 melts at 600 degrees Centigrade and B6 melts at 800 degrees Centigrade. Both are made by Johnson Matthey. The original Easi-Flo2 is now no longer available as it contains Cadmium... I have found the "24" alloy to be very good -if somewhat fussy about the flux you use! "B6" is like super glue which is both good and bad. YES it will stick anything to anything BUT there is no room for error -you can never heat it up and get it apart again!!!
regards
ralph |
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The Home of Articulated Ugliness |
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SteveC
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| 06 May 2012 12:48 PM |
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If I'm not mistaken and remember correctly what I was taught, the correct geometry for drill bits and lathe cutting bits for use with brass are supposed to wind up with zero rake. While being a bit of expense those that do a fair amount of work with brass have a set of bits that they only use for brass. Now that I think about it, I was also taught that if you're going to use your files on brass, buy them new and never use them on steel. |
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HMeinhold
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| 06 May 2012 03:19 PM |
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Posted By ralphbrades on 06 May 2012 11:22 AM
Henner,
Does somebody else need new glasses(?) Silver-Flo-24 melts at 600 degrees Centigrade and B6 melts at 800 degrees Centigrade. Both are made by Johnson Matthey. The original Easi-Flo2 is now no longer available as it contains Cadmium... I have found the "24" alloy to be very good -if somewhat fussy about the flux you use! "B6" is like super glue which is both good and bad. YES it will stick anything to anything BUT there is no room for error -you can never heat it up and get it apart again!!!
regards
ralph
Ralph, now you have me completely confused. In the US, cadmium bearing silver solder with a melting point of 1125F = 607C is still available, see my link to McMaster. It is the same composition as the classic EasyFlow. This is the stuff I use all the time: 45% Ag, 15% Cu, 16% Zn, 24%Cd. For tight joints and melting point of 1125 F. McMaster order # 7676A7 or 7676A6.
Regards
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Henner
Donkey Doctor East Devils Hill Lumber Co. |
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ralphbrades
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| 06 May 2012 08:08 PM |
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Henner,
Errrmmm... It has been ILLEGAL to sell Cadmium bearing rods since 2009 in the EU(!) The alloy is 24% Ag, 43% Cu, 33% Zn. There is (I believe) an "S" version which contains about 2% Sn which is said to flow very well -but I have never used it.
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ralph |
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The Home of Articulated Ugliness |
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Ora Banda
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| 07 May 2012 12:54 AM |
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Checkout these people... probably all you'll need to know about the various silver solders, fluxes and usages... and help make an informed choice relative to our model engineering hobby.
Usual disclaimer... just a happy customer.
Regards... John
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Steam on!
John |
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David BaileyK27
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| 07 May 2012 01:40 AM |
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Errrmmm, no, its only been illegal since last December, so suppliers were able to use up old stock until then, I stocked up before then as I do not like the new alloys, they stay liquid too long.
David Bailey |
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iceclimber
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| 18 May 2012 08:37 PM |
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Haven't heard from Amber in awhile. Did she blow herself up? |
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| Jeremiah |
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Amber
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| 18 May 2012 10:46 PM |
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No, I'm still here. :-) I still haven't gotten the parts to make the propane burner for the boiler, hopefully I'll get them this weekend. |
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rkapuaala
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| 19 May 2012 02:54 PM |
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Man, I feel like I'm learning more everytime I look at this thread :) |
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I keep forgetting we're not in Kansas! |
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Amber
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| 20 May 2012 10:20 AM |
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I'll be having another go at making the propane burner for the boiler this week. The brass parts didn't work, so I'm going to try copper parts. I bought a 1-1/4 inch pipe cap for the burner body. I just have to solder an inlet pipe in the side of it and a cover plate for the bottom. We'll see how this idea goes.... |
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norman
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spring
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| 22 May 2012 01:07 AM |
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Hi, I like your motto "Goals are dreams with deadlines"! |
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