Yes, no rivets.....just one of several "good enough"s.

Now for something completely different: This Forney is going to need a car to pull, so while waiting for various detail parts to arrive for the Forney, I've been working on SRRT car no.1. This is the first trailer car built by the Jackson & Sharp Co. for the SSRT in 1892 and is preserved at the Chicago History Museum. My model is a Bachmann observation car kit with modified platforms. Some detail parts include Ozark Miniatures link and pin couplers and strap steps, Slater's spoke wheels, Stan Cedarleaf decals, and Band-it pre-glued iron on veneer platforms.

An Otto Frei 13mm flat edge glass crystal ($7.50) press fits snugly into the painted headlight (Trackside Details TD-13 headlight; Krylon primer and black BBQ paint). I've also changed the number plate. I plan to add a Stan Cedarleaf number "5" decal in the appropriate font.

I wouldn't count on the decal lasting long. I found that the heat of the smokebox will fry the decal paper pretty quickly. More durable alternatives are to solder on one of TD's numbers, or paint it on yourself. Or, perhaps Accucraft has started putting insulation and a back plate on the Ruby smokebox doors, and it won't be a problem. I suppose adding some insulation would be a third alternative.

There is insulation. I plan to decal (Cedarleaf decals) the steam dome as well. Your concerns about decal failure are mine as well. We'll see.

Hi Jim, Sorry I haven't gotten back to you, Iv'e been traveling a lot the last 2 months. You asked me about using the gun metal paint. I looks like you got the job done without my help. I don't remember for sure but I think I used DupliColor etching primer on the brass then the Model Master gun metal which I buffed after it was well dried (several days) and then used the Model Master cover coat. It has stood up well. I used one of Stan's decals on the number plate, it has not done so well and is now kind of shriveled up. Even with insulation inside the smoke box door it gets too hot. I have had no problems with decals on any other part of the loco including the domes.

Your loco and coach are looking really great. I'm looking forward to the finished product. I will be as job to be proud of.

God in his infinite wisdom has granted me another lesson in patience. Was I anxious to finish this project? Yes. Did I think that two coats of Krylon Matte Finish 1311 would be better than one and three better than two? Yes. Did I read/remember the directions: "excessive multiple coats may appear whitish, like frosted glass"? No. So..... accept the things I cannot change or ....courage to change the things I can? God is good.

Instant weathering...? Still, it looks good from here!

I think further weathering (which I had planned on doing) will cover over a multitude of dull coat sins, but I had read somewhere that one more coat of Matte could take away the "frost."

I posted this on the Summerlands Chuffer thread, but thought I'd add it here too. Here's a few clips with a Summerlands Chuffer installed. It's the standard SCAC1 for the Ruby. I shot these clips on a Canon Powershot SD400 5.0 digital camera. The first clip is forward, the second in reverse and the third is what often happens at slow speeds. The wheels bind and I've either got to push the wheels to get them going again or quickly open the throttle as seen in the clip. I'll figure that one out later.

Jim, didn't you mention earlier that there was a wobble or something in the rear wheelset? If so , perhaps that and the binding are related. A number of things can cause this-perhaps a conversation with Cliff is called for now. Your symptoms remind me of trying to get 1950's Mantua HO loco kits to run smoothly.

Larry

Hi Larry,

It's been suggested that perhaps the main and/or side rod(s) were binding, but that doesn't seem to be the problem. It may be a timing issue with the eccentrics. Each time I steam up it seems to be working better (i.e. slower speed without binding), reverse better than forward.

Cliff has offered to pay for shipping to get it fixed/fine tuned, but since I'm working on these other modifications, I'll take him up on the offer as a last resort. I probably voided the warranty anyway.

Jim

I would suggest looking at your rear drivers. From the clips you've posted, it looks almost like the rear driver is not concentric with its axle. This could also explain the bind and running the loco could just be 'egging out' the holes in the rods to make it run more smoothly. This will make the engine run better on blocks, but if this is the case, the problem will still exist once the loco is on the rails. Does the flange position change vertically relative to the frame, or is it just the side to side motion?

HeliconSteamer,

What you describe is what I see as well. It does seem as though there is a little more vertical looseness in the right rear driver axle in the frame (moves up and down) than there is in the other drivers - not much though. I may be seeing something that's not there, not really an issue?

Jim

Done.

Thanks to Zoe Topper for detail parts, much advice, and an all-around big helping hand when I really needed it (www.ngtmodels.com), Doug Bronson (www.bronson-tate.com) for the cab, Stan Cedarleaf for the decals (nice save on the frosting problem. A coat of warmed-up Krylon Clear Satin did the trick. Amazing!), Colin Camarillo (www.camarillopacific.com) for the Trackside detail part, and Bruce Moffat for the SSRT inspiration ("Steam on the Alley 'L'" www.discoverlivesteam.com/magazine/42/index.html), and finally I'd like to thank the Academy for the opportunity to post this project... seriously folks... thanks to everyone on MLS for your input and comments.

I still need to fine tune the timing and plan to weather it this weekend. Hopefully I can post some video clips running at the Midwest Live Steamers show on April 3.

Jim,

Beautiful job!!

Best regards,

Alan

Man that came out great!

really nicely done!

I've been folllowing this build with much interest. The outcome is outstanding. Fantastic effort, and a very fine model.

David.

A unique engine, Jim. Welcome to the Critter Club!

I would still look into that rear driver situation, and I don't think Cliff is going to have any warranty concerns about your cosmetic changes.

Larry

I was able to steam up at the Indy South Train Show on Jim Sanders "Midwest Live Steamers" elevated track today. All-in-all very satisfying. The binding of the drivers didn't seem to be an issue for the most part. It was only in the curves and toward the end of a run that the locomotive would stall and - then not always. As you can see from the video, it slows down in the curves (that's the speed I'm looking for) and speeds up on the straightaway (that's too fast). It may be that it just needs to break in and with more run time will smooth out. The inside curve is a 4-foot radius. The Summerlands Chuffer sounds great IMO. And the decal on the number plate is holding up well. The first decal did start to break apart in previous steam ups, but I put another identical decal on top of it and sealed it with a coat of Krylon Satin.

I missed the exciting final scene of this movie! It looks great, Jim.