Hello all,

Yes, I am a newbie to live steam and am looking for advice. So let's get some background going. I'm 31 and have had G scale stuff for 22 years now. The short version: I wanted a train set since I was five and my Dad kept saying when we moved into a new, larger, house I could get one. Well after three years in a row of asking for it for Christmas and getting the same story, we moved and I forgot to ask. Well that Christmas morning I had a G scale train (LGB's first Mallet and a few cars) running around the house downstairs. I remember that morning because I was so excited I nearly threw up. I had only wanted an HO size train so this was a dream come true. So there is the short version.

I now live in a suburb of Phoenix (Chandler) Arizona. Now that I have a backyard I moved the train in. The wife was really happy about that but, she lost a bet so there ya have it. I've known about Live Steam in G scale sizes but had only seen them in "British Style" until about a year ago. That's when I saw an actual coal fired K-27 at a local train club. HOLY S**T that is positively AWESOME!! So I talked with the owner and found out about the live steam hobby and the history about what I have been missing (yeah, I only got high speed internet about a year ago too, so no, I hadn't seen any YouTube videos and such because I was still on 56k).

So here I am. After extensive looking, reading, pondering, and a little pleading with the wife, I have my sights set on live steam. Now I have read practically every post on this website and others, but liking this website the most, I will post the questions here. So, without further delay, here are the questions.

1: What locomotive to go for? Let me trim that down a little...

            A: Budget $1,000.00

            B: I like American style locomotives from about 1900 through the end of steam. But, it must have a Walschaerts valve gear outside those drive wheels, functional or not, doesn't matter, but I like to stare at those counter rotating rods for hours sometimes (koo...koo... I know). The only engine that I have found that meets all of these requirements without any modification is the Accucraft/American Mainline 0-6-0. The S-12 is very similar with a functional Walschaerts valve gear but it's also beyond my budget.

2: Long term maintenance? I have spent many hours on YouTube videos and this and other sites about short-term maintenance such as how to oil, put a fire too, run, and cool down/clean up the locomotive, but haven't read much on long term care. What wears out eventually, even with proper maintenance (I would imagine things like journals and piston seals)? What does it usually cost (in general) to fix? How often (again in general, I know a lot of this will depend on running environment, proper oiling, etc...)? Will I need a local Machine shop for these repairs or can I do them with basic hand tools? In your experiences are the parts easy to get or...(insert horror story here)?

3: General running question: Johnson bar. I haven't seen any videos using the johnson bar (reversing lever) while running. For example, if staring from a stop, bar full forward to start but as speed increases, move bar rearward to reduce valve opening time and thereby using the expansive properties of steam to maintain motive power. Is this something that is done?

4: Continuous running question: I like to run my passenger consist for about 25 minute intervals for around two to three hours at a time. I would therefore be doing the same with the steam loco. I want to get the optional hand pump to put water in the boiler under pressure. However, as I understand it, you can refill the butane while "hot and under pressure", water as well but what about steam oil? It would appear that you must first blow down all the water that accumulates in the steam oil reservoir in order to refill it. Then to refill it you need to take the cap off. This process will therefore require all of the pressure to be relieved from the boiler. Am I right?  Or, can you close the throttle after blowing down thereby cutting off the steam pressure to the reservoir and being able to remove the cap to refill it while there is still pressure in the boiler? How long until your back up and running again if you must relieve all the pressure? How long does the steam oil last; do you have to refill every time you refill water and butane or will it last through one, two, three, refills of water and fuel?

5: Another continuous running question: With the above time intervals listed what about oiling the entire locomotive? If it's hot and under pressure, picking it up and turning it over to oil the parts underneath is out. Will the first application of oil last for a few hours or is it advisable to oil at every refill?

6: Shutting down: There appears to be some controversy as to where to leave the throttle so that you don't get it "locked" in place but not open enough to draw steam oil into the boiler when cooling down. I intend to install a whistle so this might work to cover both problems but before it's made/installed couldn't you just leave the steam oil blow down open, with the throttle partly open, thereby relieving steam pressure and not sticking the throttle during cool down or drawing steam oil into the boiler?

7: Anyone know of a good place to experience live steam in the good state of Arizona in the USA. I am a member of the Maricopa Live Steamers club but it is for 7 1/2 " gauge 1 1/2" scale trains. Just thought someone may know. I have done a decent amount of looking but all I can find is ABTO (Arizona Big Train Operators) club and none of them operate live steam locomotives.

The next set of questions are more specific to owner/operators of the AML 0-6-0.

8: Turning radius? I have read Kondre's posts with much enthusiasm and noticed that he said it will go around 5' diameter curves but I imagine this will slow the locomotive down.  Also, he mentioned that he thinks it will go through his switches (points - for you English) which are 4' diameter. I have the same problem. Almost all my curves are LGB R1 which are basically 4' diameter. Same with my switches. I am upgrading now to LGB R3 (8' diameter) and R5 (16' diameter) curves and switches but this will take some time. It also really reduces my budget for the locomotive. It's going to cost me just shy of $2,000.00 to replace everything. The reason I'm doing this; If I like live steaming (and I'm pretty sure of this) my dream engine is the new K-36 that Accucraft is making which will require 8' diameter as a minimum.

9: Remote control installation. TY's posts (at the end) indicate that he R/C'd his loco. Any pictures or advice TY? Same for Kondre...have you done this yet? I have a few mild grades with all ground level track and want to R/C it. Any suggestions? I have tons of R/C equipment lying around so this should be very cost effective.

10: Bark box and whistle installation. Brakeman123 installed a Mogul bark box and said that it fit pretty well. I intend to go to Trainsales.com and discuss it with them, but any advice would be helpful. As for a whistle; It appears that in Kondre's picture posts that there is an added steam line that could be used for heating the water in the tender to stabilize the butane on cold days. As I live in Phoenix , I don't think I will need to use that line for that purpose. So, could it be used for a whistle installation? Is this boiler large enough to supply adequate steam pressure for a whistle? I know of "Bangham Whistles" and WELTYK'S WHISTLES. Any other manufactures I should talk too?

11: Anyone done a headlight installation in either this or other locomotives? Ideas on parts, equipment, and where to get them would be helpful.

I want to say thank you to all the future posters with responses to my questions. I really do appreciate any advice that I can receive from the people here.

Thanks again,

Brian Thomson

Posted By tacfoley on 10 Nov 2009 04:54 AM

Snip...

 

 

PS - a few years back, one of my sparkies, a USA Trains Geep, was unintentionally set running on our little track by a next door neighbour unfamiliar with what to them were upside-down wall-switches  - they were looking in while we were over with our folks in Ontario.  The train was still operating, covered with bird-poo and general grime, twenty-six days later, having run continuously, day and night, since it had been switched on.  I was very glad that it had been well-lubed the day before we had left.  t

 

 

 

Posted By Shay Gear Head on 10 Nov 2009 02:38 PM

Kevin,

 

 

 DO NOT   pour in  HOT water - you are asking for trouble. There may be a rapid expansion of the gas that the tank can not handle. Maybe luke warm water at most or just plain tap water temperature.

Hey there,

I got this loco for the same reasons you're about to... It is an absolutely awesome live steam loco, especially for under a grand (right now).

I agree with all of the responses you have gotten so far. I love this engine.

Ideally, I would like two of them for my future expanded railway :-) (I will probably get the Vanderbilt tender version for the second one).

I have already pre-ordered the K-4 from AML. I cannot wait to get it this spring and run them together!!

I outfitted the 0-6-0 with RC by using ideas I got from searching mylargescale. The most effective technique I found was the sprocket and chain method for the throttle valve. It was quite a feat of engineering and required some trial and error mechanics, but it has worked like a charm for every run since. It has made running the engine under load, on a grade a lot of fun!!

Here are the links where I first saw the idea:

http://www.mylargescale.com/Communi...Terms=k-28

http://www.mylargescale.com/Communi...fault.aspx

This video shows the same technique on a K-28: 

Here’s where I ordered the parts:

http://www.servocity.com/html...1227_.html

Here’s the last video I made of my engine:

Here is the most reasonably priced dealer I have found for this model:

You will not be sorry if you get this loco. Thanks for the interest. Post some videos or pictures when you get it. Good luck!

-Ty 

Well... She's HERE. I purchased the Burlington Northern AML 0-6-0 #505. I have to say that I am VERY PLEASED with the workmanship for only a $1,000.00 layout.

I would like to thank all those that posted their responses to my questions, as they were very informative. I eagerly await the first steam up, but for now am working on the R/C solution.

Speaking of which: Hey TY, got any photos or part numbers that you used. I reviewed the posts that you outlined, but just thought I could get a leg up from you since the K-27 / K-28 throttle is a little lower and roof mounting the throttle servo may not be possible.

I will post pictures/video's as soon as she's up and running.

Again, my thanks goes out to all those that posted responses to my questions.

Now... time to go burn my hands!!

Posted By Semper Vaporo on 09 Nov 2009 09:29 PM 

As for R/C control of the Reverser lever to "notch up" and save steam, this can be done IF the valve gear has a proper Expansion Link AND working Combination Levers.  Many of the less expensive ones do not.  The Reverser lever only exchanges the "steam in" and "exhaust out" of the steam chest to reverse the engine and does not affect the valve event timing.  Some people have claimed that on their loco that has this type of reverser that if they pull the lever back from "full" forward or reverse that the engine runs better, but that is because their valve is miss-adjusted and when it is in full forward it is too far forward and is acting to throttle the flow of steam and thus moving it back opens the ports a bit and the engine runs better.  This is not the same as notching up on the valve gear.

 

I don't know which of the less expensive engines today have true valve gear,  I know the Ruby and its derivatives do not and I do not believe the 3-cylinder Shay does either.  I wish you could quadruple your budget and get an Aster Mikado like I have, which does react properly to notching up.  I do dearly enjoy watching the valve gear operate... mesmerizing!

 

 

 

Dear Mr SV - on the AccuCraft Royal hudson the Johnson bar has two notches at either end of its travel - fully forward/reverse and another slightly to the rear/in front of - this enables a very limited amount of 'notching' to take place, though quite how this is achievable with a manually-operated loco in motion has so far taxed my poor brain far too much.  AFAIK, this is the only model made by AC that has this facility - at least I haven't seen it on any other so far.

 

And you are right about the three-cylinder Shay, which is nothing more than three Ruby cylinders fixed pointing up, with the associated simple eccentric valve gear.  I 'spose you might, if you had r/c, wongle the Johnson bar to a degree, but it would only cut off the steam until the loco came to a halt for lack of it.

 

Besp

 

tac

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